pfbz

Thanks...

I bought the bedrug from an eBay vendor, "daservices0"

It was listed at $400 shipped, I submitted and they accepted my 'best offer' of $340 shipped. Extremely happy with the product, perfect for my needs.

pfbz

A few more links to other projects I did on my truck...

Bilstein 5100 install thread:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/bilste...ctures-135208/

Hellwig rear sway bar install thread:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/hellwi...lation-150054/

Rigid LED lights on my N-Fab light bar:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/light-...6/#post1730091


...and more recent pictures of my truck.

pfbz

I received a few questions about this...

Sometimes I prototype an idea and it works so well for me the first time I don't ever get to V2 (eg: paddle shifter). Sometimes I go through multiple iterations, never happy with the result. I tried quite a few different bike solutions before I ended up with this one. It has worked perfectly for me... and was very low cost to boot!

My requirements:

• Haul two bikes while keeping bed completely covered with my Tonneau cover.
• Easy to load.
• Secure enough for 85 mph on the highway or miles of dirt road washboard.

Here's what I did:

• Purchased Yakima locking blockheads. About
  $20 for the non-locking version
  $20 for the non-locking version
  , $40 for the locking version.
• Purchased some small 4" sections of aluminum tie down track. Available Here and here. I've also started seeing it in auto parts stores as well. Look in the trailer section. Also called L-track, vera-track, versa-tie and a half a dozen other brand names.
• Temporarily removed the stock plastic rail caps from the truck. It is Swiss-cheese underneath, so I carefully selected where I was going to mount the above pieces. I chose locations with maximum strength and bolt access.
• Installed aluminum rivnuts as threaded inserts into the metal rail, drilled matching holes in the plastic cover, and reinstalled the plastic rail cover. Rivnuts might be the hardest item to find. Also called rivet nuts and threaded inserts. Harbor freight has an inexpensive rivnut kit. The tool is very light duty, but good enough for the 8 rivnuts you will need to install.
• Mounted the l-track and blockheads on top of the plastic rail. A few of the bolt holes I was able to just use conventional bolts and nuts, and access/hold the nuts from inside the bed.

How it works:

• The front fork is clamped into the Yakima blockhead. Very secure. What holds the entire bike in place
• Rear wheel sits on plastic bed rail and is tied back to ring stud on e-track using a web strap. All this really does is stop the rear wheel from bouncing or swinging. Don't use a bungee type strap for this. You do not want any give in this strap. I played around with mounting the same channel you see on bike racks to the rail. It looked like crap and didn't provide any real additional security.

[/QUOTE]

RobErnst

Love the Big Black Dog mod....

pfbz

Update to the mod thread...

In addition to the Rigid Dually's I've been running for a while, I picked up some additional compact LED lights a while back. Browsing this thread motivated me to work up a mounting solution for them...

The lights are fairly inexpensive import lights, about $85/ea street price. They use four Cree XM-L T6 LEDs for a rated light output of ~3,600 lumens. For comparison, Dually's are rated at 1,300 lumens and D2's are rated at 2,600 lumens. They don't have the build quality of the Rigid's, but do seem reasonably well made. Considering they are less than half the cost of D2's and rated at higher light output, I wanted to give the a try. I'll report back after I've been running them a while.

I prototyped up a set of mounts to test them... Not finished so go easy on how they look right now!. Really just wanted to see how well they would fit behind the grille, check out their light output, etc. At a minimum, I'll clean up the edges a bit and primer/paint the mounts black.

Bare lights. I chose not to use the included mounts. The rear heat sink is threaded, and I was able to mount them to much heavier aluminum by drilling a 1-1/8" hole in the aluminum stock.


My prototype aluminum brackets. They mount to an existing hole on the OEM headlights, the hole that is used to secure the rubber weather flap.


The two new high output lights with my four Rigid Dually's:


Hood closed:


Lights on. For reference, headlights and fogs are both 35W HID's, Rigid's are 1,200 lumen floods.

pfbz

Door chime kill thread...

https://www.f150forum.com/f38/freakin-door-chime-99200/

Buck

what brand are those LEDs?

WhiskeyRunner

nice build and very good, unique ideas. Where did you buy your vinyl for the rockers? And I'm interested to hear your opinion on those LED lights in "real world" observation. Where did you buy them? I'll stay tuned.....

pfbz

Another updated Mod's list... Again, I wish F150Forum allowed editing the original post!

Completed, Exterior:
Front window matching tint.
De-badged/De-stickered.
N-Fab Light Bar.
Rigid Dually floods
Additional LED's behind grille
N-Fab nerf steps
Bedrug & Truxedo Lo Pro QT.
3M Vinyl on hood, lowers, tailgate.
Mirror Reflector delete.
Painted F150 badges and rear emblem.
Custom mountain bike mounts on bed rails.
Raptor Wheels, blizzak snow tires.
Bilstein 5100's, front and rear
Hellwig rear sway bar
Horse stall mat as bed weight
2WD ELD modification

Completed, Interior:
Custom iPad Navigation Mount.
V1 Radar mount.
LED lighting.
Delete Door/Key Chime.
USB2 mod to Center Console.
Polk speakers
Roush boost gauge and vent pod

b316

How did you do LED sensors?