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Blend door actuator popping noise, any fix?

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Old 10-09-2014, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by oldguy1946
I had to replace mine on my 2011 FX4 yesterday. I could not get my big hands behind it to loosen the back screw even reaching through the glove box. I tore up my hand and arm trying. After spending hours trying to get to the back screw I wised up. I took a screw driver and pried the 2 clips loose that hold the 2 pieces of the actuator together and removed the top and internal gears so I could get to the back screw. Installed the new one with just the one screw in front. There is no way that thing needs 2 screws to hold it for it to be solid and not move. Initialized it and it works perfect. Now when it breaks a tooth again It will only take less than an hour to replace it.
lol. I did the same thing. I couldn't get that damn screw out either. I hade just the single screw in also.
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Old 10-09-2014, 03:06 PM
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See this video.
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Old 10-09-2014, 03:09 PM
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And his other one.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by FordService
Keep us posted on how things go when you head in to your dealer, Tystevens. I'll be here if you need my help.

Crystal
Well, I finally got it in to the dealership today. I'm at 780 miles out of warranty ...

$263 to replace the motor and gears, I guess. Said there was no chance Ford would cover it

(note -- I understand the warranty guidelines complete, and I understand Ford has no obligation to cover, but just a little disappointed, I guess. After all, I'm likely going to spend $50k on a Suburban or Expedition EL next year, and I know that last year GM 'good willed' a repair on a common issue for just the cost of the part, saving me about 1/2 of the expected repair cost where I was about 15k miles outside of the bumper to bumper warranty. But I digress ...).

So I'll have to chalk it up to bad luck, since if it happened 3 weeks ago it would be free!
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:49 PM
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I was at a shop today getting an emissions test done and they had a F150 with the dash torn apart. The guy said the motor went bad and that it was a pain in the butt to replace.
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:45 PM
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My 2011 xlt is doing this now too, is my truck still under warranty? I only have 30k miles??
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Old 10-24-2014, 03:56 PM
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Thumbs up To the XLT owners
Folks,

I wanted to report that I also tried the #15 fuse pull and it worked! I did it recently, so I will be glad to report if anything returns. Mine has been clicking for 6 months and I have tried to avoid moving all the way to cold because of it. I can now turn fulling in either HOT or COLD with no noise!!!

Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Egolfnation
Folks,

I wanted to report that I also tried the #15 fuse pull and it worked! I did it recently, so I will be glad to report if anything returns. Mine has been clicking for 6 months and I have tried to avoid moving all the way to cold because of it. I can now turn fulling in either HOT or COLD with no noise!!!

Thanks for the help!
Might of reset it for now but if you had a clicking noise your probably do have a broken tooth on the gear...eventually it will come back. For your sake lets hope its behind the radio console and not at the floor.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kcb142
My 2011 xlt is doing this now too, is my truck still under warranty? I only have 30k miles??
Sounds like you should get in touch with your local dealer, kcb142, and have them take a look. You can use this tool to find your nearest one and schedule an upcoming appointment.

Once you do that, please send me a private message with your full name, VIN, servicing dealership information, and best daytime contact number. I'll then loop in the regional customer service manager for your area for further assistance.

Hope to hear from you soon!

Brittany
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Old 11-01-2014, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mamonti
  1. NOTICE: The ignition key must be off when replacing the actuator. Energizing the actuator before installation will cause the part to become positioned incorrectly and proper orientation will be lost. Incorrect actuator operation will result.
    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  1. NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.
    Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least one minute.
  1. NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
    Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct mode door actuator operation.
Deleted, truck fixed by Ford
Last edited by csmdew; 11-03-2014 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Info no longer needed
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