soaringfalcon

iTrader: (1)

Always compartmentalize the sale, five separate transactions, four if you don't have a trade in.

Go in alone, do not bring your spouse, If you need to run something past them, call them. They will use your spouse against you. The way I do it, Is I go in with my wife, we test drive, she tells me what she likes, she leaves, I do the negotiations, she comes back at the end to sign everything. Also, send in the best negotiator, if it's you spouse, send him/her in to negotiate instead of you.

Whatever you do, do not let them combine any of the transactions until each one has been agreed to separately. Do not move to the next transaction until you have an agreement on the current one. Never sign anything until the end. Do not let them run your credit until 1,2,3 and 4 are done.

At any step, ALWAYS be ready to walk away if you don't like something.


1.) Test Drive - Always test drive all your options, do not buy a truck you have not test driven, that goes for new and especially used trucks. Drive it on a pothole filled street, smooth street and at highway speed. If it's used, take it in and have your mechanic examine it. Record the stock number of the truck, make sure that you get that truck at the end.

2.) Trade in - Start at KBB value and go up from there, dealer will low-ball you, stick to as close to KBB or above as you can. Ignore any depreciation they want to deduct due to minor accidents, dings and scratches, that is already accounted for in the KBB Trade-in value.

3.) Truck - Negotiate the price of the truck, start at below invoice (or trade in value if it's used.) price will only go up from there, so always start as low as you can. There are multiple online resources that will give you invoice or trade-in values. DO NOT allow them to use the rebates to artificially lower the price of the truck. Do not let them intimidate you about them loosing money on the truck, they are not.

4.) Once you have the price of the truck agreed upon, see what rebates are available, some might require a special financing to get them. ALWAYS read the fine print on each.

OPTIONAL but recommended - Go home, sleep on it, discuss with your spouse, make sure you like the deal, come back the next day to finish it.

5.) Financing - Once you have your trade in value and the final price of the truck with rebates, you are ready to talk financing.
Your best bet is to go in pre-approved by your bank.
However, sometimes the dealer will have special financing rebates, look into those, look at the fine print. I had a $1,500 Ford Financing rebate, that had no prepayment penalty. I go it, waited for my first payment and then went to my bank and refinanced it. It was a bit of work, but saved about $1,250 plus whatever interest I would have paid on that for 5 years.

This is also where they will try to pressure you into buying an ESP, Tire, wheel, paint or upholstery protection. Do your research beforehand and see what you want to get, bring in the prices you found online, they will almost always match them.

I can go on for hours but I think the above should be enough to get you started.

hallenfe

My sticker was $53,115 and invoice was $48,000 and some change. The invoice should have X plan pricing Z plan pricing all at the bottom. Hope this helps.

MNFX4eco

Does paying the invoice price apply for leasing too or is that a whole different ballgame?

Stuntman

what was the price after incentives?

Has anyone have the dealer email you a copy of the invoice for a particular car/truck?

hallenfe

I had $3500 in rebates so out the door I was around $46k cause I had about $1000 of negative equity I had to carry over from my jeep that I traded in. It was a 2014 wrangler unlimited. Hated that thing. I'm pretty sure you would have to go to a dealer and get the invoice. I also bought my truck right about the time the 2015s were about to roll out.

soaringfalcon

iTrader: (1)

Same thing apply to the Lease, even though you don't own the vehicle you are financing the difference between sales price and residual value at the end of the lease. So the lower you can get them, the less you have to pay.

Example
- let's say the residual value on it is $30K
- If you don't negotiate and pay sticker of 50K
- Your lease will be the price you pay $50k - the residual value of 30K = $20K
- The bank will take the $20k lease price add interest and fees, then split it into 36 payments.

So the lower your purchase price, the lower the payment.

If they tell you "oh it does not matter, we will add it to the residual value" turn around, don't walk, run.
The residual value is determined by the bank and is non negotiable, what they are doing is adding it to your payments.

gregsf150stx

here's the thing about truecar. Many times you can get a better price just negotiating.... I use it as a starting point.


Actually, one dealer told me NOT to use truecar . . . .because, once your name goes in as a prospect to the dealer THRU truecar, the deal is in a way truecars . . .


the dealer has to instantly pay true a $249 fee for the lead.


***** My point here is if you use truecar for pricing, and your dealer gets a lead from truecar on your behalf, the dealer is going to STICK YOU with that $249 in some form or matter. (because they in turn have to pay truecar)


the Nissan dealer said they are relentless and will not waive any fee even if you contacted the dealer FIRST, then did a truecar quote.


Invoice minus rebates is always a good place to start. on Ford, its very similar to x-plan pricing.


if the vehicle has been on the lot for a while (more than a year), then you can easily go below invoice, and sometimes the dealer will give you a further break by giving you their holdback as a further discount.

gregsf150stx

NEVER buy an extended warranty from a dealer. in the case of Ford, buy a genuine FORD ESP directly from an online dealer for like 60% off the dealer price..... Zeigler, flood, troy, Anderson Koch, etc etc.

soaringfalcon

iTrader: (1)

Actually, my dealer matched the Zeigler price, so i did not need to come back to have the truck inspected. Give it a shot, worst thing they will say is no, and then you go buy it online.

gregsf150stx

some will match other dealers online prices, some wont.


ACTUALLY, a ford dealer can sell a FORD ESP for what ever they want.....


They still have to pay Ford COST on the bill.




ALSO, there is no inspection required if you bought the ESP before the truck had 12,000 miles on it.