Best front rotor/pads
#31
I have 18,000 miles on my '14 SCrew and already have the brake shake. I'm sure the dealer will turn/resurface them, but I have no doubt that the problem will be back in short order. So I'm thinking of just paying $$$ and getting better rotors. Considering the Napa Ultra Premium line due to their lifetime rotor warranty and local availability. If they "warp" (a misnomer, I know), then Napa should replace free of charge.
Anyone have experience with these?
Anyone have experience with these?
I just put a few miles on the new rotors and as expected the shake is gone. Overall braking performance is a little diminished during the first few miles, possibly because the new rotors have coatings that need to wear off, and the pads need to mate to the profile of the new rotors. Pads were in great shape and not changed.
I also got new caliper bracket bolts from the Local Ford dealership, as the workshop manual specifies they're one time use fasteners. $2.62 per bolt.
Last edited by bamorris2; 07-29-2016 at 12:39 AM.
#32
Senior Member
My 2012 is going to hit 130k this month, and I'm still over 50% on my original pads and no shudder or braking vibration.. must have got a good set of brakes on mine!
#36
Senior Member
2011-2013 model years use DOT 3 brake fluid according to the owners manual's, 2014 model year use's DOT 4 brake fluid.
Recently I needed to do my brakes and I went with Bosch QuietCast brake rotors on the front (due to time constraints and condition - excellent - of the rear rotor/drum I didn't change them). I went with Wagner OEX brake pads all around. Also changed the brake fluid at the same time (brake fluid didn't look bad at first until I looked closer), for anyone wanting to perform this I would highly recommend the following to ensure the most effective flushing you will need two quarts.
1) First using a brake bleeding vacuum pump, or a turkey baster - suck/vacuum out
all of the fluid out of the reservoir.
2) Starting at the rear passenger side wheel, begin bleeding the brakes - two
people minimum needed for this part (for those who have never done this - one
person in the driver seat pumping, pushing and holding the brake pedal while the
other opens and closes the bleeder valve('s) - YOUTUBE has MANY videos on this
process). You will get ALOT of fluid out of this side until clear fluid emerges.
**DON'T FORGET TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR FILLED WHILE BLEEDING BRAKES**
3) Continue with the driver side rear wheel, then move to the two front wheels.
Vehicle had 59,000 miles on at the time of change. I have been very happy with the setup to this point, I have towed our 7,000# trailer without issue. Brakes are equal to or better to OEM so far.
Recently I needed to do my brakes and I went with Bosch QuietCast brake rotors on the front (due to time constraints and condition - excellent - of the rear rotor/drum I didn't change them). I went with Wagner OEX brake pads all around. Also changed the brake fluid at the same time (brake fluid didn't look bad at first until I looked closer), for anyone wanting to perform this I would highly recommend the following to ensure the most effective flushing you will need two quarts.
1) First using a brake bleeding vacuum pump, or a turkey baster - suck/vacuum out
all of the fluid out of the reservoir.
2) Starting at the rear passenger side wheel, begin bleeding the brakes - two
people minimum needed for this part (for those who have never done this - one
person in the driver seat pumping, pushing and holding the brake pedal while the
other opens and closes the bleeder valve('s) - YOUTUBE has MANY videos on this
process). You will get ALOT of fluid out of this side until clear fluid emerges.
**DON'T FORGET TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR FILLED WHILE BLEEDING BRAKES**
3) Continue with the driver side rear wheel, then move to the two front wheels.
Vehicle had 59,000 miles on at the time of change. I have been very happy with the setup to this point, I have towed our 7,000# trailer without issue. Brakes are equal to or better to OEM so far.
Last edited by Merlyn; 07-30-2016 at 08:00 PM. Reason: Typo
#37
Senior Member
I figured since dot 3 is the standard that's what our trucks used. I recently replaced my pads and rotors with the powerstop z36 extreme truck/tow kit. Did the install and the break in per the instructions and man what a difference. I'm a little biased since my oem brakes were vibrating like crazy, but so far so good. I can't wait to start towing my trailer this coming desert season to see what a difference it's gonna make.
#38
Senior Member
Anyone who is looking at the Raybestos Advance Technology....the part numbers for our trucks are 680508 for the front and 680976 for the rear. The same part numbers are used for the Professional Grade ones but have an "R" at the end of the numbers. Anyways, my question is that the rear 680976 rotor seems to be a coated rotor and the front one isn't. I can't find a non-coated one but does it matter? Thy say the coating is for the sound and rust protection but I'm curious as to what others have found and think.
#39
Anyone who is looking at the Raybestos Advance Technology....the part numbers for our trucks are 680508 for the front and 680976 for the rear. The same part numbers are used for the Professional Grade ones but have an "R" at the end of the numbers. Anyways, my question is that the rear 680976 rotor seems to be a coated rotor and the front one isn't. I can't find a non-coated one but does it matter? Thy say the coating is for the sound and rust protection but I'm curious as to what others have found and think.
#40
Senior Member
Have you been able to actually look at them in person, or are you looking at photos online? I was specifically looking for coated rotors because I didn't want them covered with rust within a month. I installed my front 680508's (ordered from eBay) last night and they look like this: