Auto headlight mod?
#301
Senior Member
I'm so bad about wanting to do a write up then never getting to it. I'll put this together tonight since I have all the info on my desktop. Yes wiring for keypad is in driver door. Everything works as it should with the exception of the light delay in the IC. But the delay can be set using another method. So let me get to work on this. Time I made a contribution to this site. Just want to make sure all those who have found and posted info get their due credit.
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ReactiveD (05-30-2015)
#302
Member
Only real tricky part mechanically was putting the door handle in. You want to route the harness for the keypad behind the operating rod for the handle, but don't install the clips in the door yet. Connect the handle to the rod, THEN put the clips for the harness in the door, and last, connect the key rod to the lock.
Headlamp switch and sensor literally took 45 seconds each. Pop the old one out and the new one in. The access panel on the side of the dash gives you really good access to the headlight switch.
As for the entering of the BCM data, I helped the Ford guy by reading the numbers off the spreadsheet. HAVE A PRINTOUT OF THE DATA BEFORE GOING IN! Also print the powerpoint of the procedure (or at least pages 4-9, which describe the IDS part).
Headlamp switch and sensor literally took 45 seconds each. Pop the old one out and the new one in. The access panel on the side of the dash gives you really good access to the headlight switch.
As for the entering of the BCM data, I helped the Ford guy by reading the numbers off the spreadsheet. HAVE A PRINTOUT OF THE DATA BEFORE GOING IN! Also print the powerpoint of the procedure (or at least pages 4-9, which describe the IDS part).
#303
Senior Member
Only real tricky part mechanically was putting the door handle in. You want to route the harness for the keypad behind the operating rod for the handle, but don't install the clips in the door yet. Connect the handle to the rod, THEN put the clips for the harness in the door, and last, connect the key rod to the lock.
Headlamp switch and sensor literally took 45 seconds each. Pop the old one out and the new one in. The access panel on the side of the dash gives you really good access to the headlight switch.
As for the entering of the BCM data, I helped the Ford guy by reading the numbers off the spreadsheet. HAVE A PRINTOUT OF THE DATA BEFORE GOING IN! Also print the powerpoint of the procedure (or at least pages 4-9, which describe the IDS part).
Headlamp switch and sensor literally took 45 seconds each. Pop the old one out and the new one in. The access panel on the side of the dash gives you really good access to the headlight switch.
As for the entering of the BCM data, I helped the Ford guy by reading the numbers off the spreadsheet. HAVE A PRINTOUT OF THE DATA BEFORE GOING IN! Also print the powerpoint of the procedure (or at least pages 4-9, which describe the IDS part).
#304
Senior Member
Only real tricky part mechanically was putting the door handle in. You want to route the harness for the keypad behind the operating rod for the handle, but don't install the clips in the door yet. Connect the handle to the rod, THEN put the clips for the harness in the door, and last, connect the key rod to the lock.
Headlamp switch and sensor literally took 45 seconds each. Pop the old one out and the new one in. The access panel on the side of the dash gives you really good access to the headlight switch.
As for the entering of the BCM data, I helped the Ford guy by reading the numbers off the spreadsheet. HAVE A PRINTOUT OF THE DATA BEFORE GOING IN! Also print the powerpoint of the procedure (or at least pages 4-9, which describe the IDS part).
Headlamp switch and sensor literally took 45 seconds each. Pop the old one out and the new one in. The access panel on the side of the dash gives you really good access to the headlight switch.
As for the entering of the BCM data, I helped the Ford guy by reading the numbers off the spreadsheet. HAVE A PRINTOUT OF THE DATA BEFORE GOING IN! Also print the powerpoint of the procedure (or at least pages 4-9, which describe the IDS part).
#306
Senior Member
Has anyone noticed that after changing the bcm code, the back lightning on the gauges cluster is really dim at night and will not get brighter? during the day with the lights off, it will get really bright, but as soon as the lights turn on it goes really dim. This has been very frustrating as in the morning and evening when it's not quite dark outside and but not bright enough to kick the lights off, I can barely see the gauges. Asked the dealer and they said that its normal. Before this was done I could turn the backlighting just as bright lights off or on but not now. Also asked the tech to verify he diddent miss anything when keying the info in, everything is correct.
#308
Senior Member
I read through this thread and am noticing a little confusing info. In prior posts it says lines 3, 9, 11, 12 need to be changed, but later it says only 9 and 12 which is what I had changed. Should I go back and have the other lines changed also? My dimmer works, but it won't brighten above the default setting. When the headlights kick on, the gauge cluster back lighting gets cut in half and won't get brighter. I can dim it and almost turn it off.
#309
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
I read through this thread and am noticing a little confusing info. In prior posts it says lines 3, 9, 11, 12 need to be changed, but later it says only 9 and 12 which is what I had changed. Should I go back and have the other lines changed also? My dimmer works, but it won't brighten above the default setting. When the headlights kick on, the gauge cluster back lighting gets cut in half and won't get brighter. I can dim it and almost turn it off.