festivaboy92

I live in the same town as black thunder and I do the same thing as by rust checking my truck yearly, washing weekly and when I purchased my truck brand new added the 10 Year rust and corrosion warranty (doesn't cover colour matched bumpers so I am told at my dealer). That being said this is my first and last brand new vehicle and have being only 21 don't know if this will work in the long run but know plenty of people who do it yearly and there 10+ old vehicles still look new. I will probably have different vehicle by that time but would like to sell/trade in, in excellent condition. Now my one if my first cars was 1992 Ford Festiva (hence user name) and was the 4th owner ad driven hard through lots of salt never washed, never been under coated and still own the car today and when I go underneath to change oil/work on it still has original paint on floor boards as well as all factory stickers in tact. I have driven this car hard and since I owned I put a lowering kit on it etc. so with this being said I have no clue if rust check really works but as black thunder mentioned would rather spend the $150.00 yearly and get it done as it doesn't hurt.

TheFireman

Electronic Corrosion protectors for cars DO NOT work. Period.

The physical conditions neccesary for galvanic cathodic protection (CP) to work (chemical and electrical) do not exist in cars and trucks.

Half of the circuit is the metal itself, but the other half is either water or sufficiently-conductive soil (the "electrolyte"). It needs to be either in water or soil.

It's like trying to run an electric light with only one conductor....

Snake-oil, pure and simple.

Ask any competent chemical or electrical engineer,
or boat builder,
or bridge builder,
or pipe-line builder.....etc

BEW119

I believe the anodes primarily work for boats kept in salt water, it protects the metal of the drive system.

NWfreerider

Sacrificial anodes protect against electrolysis, not corrosion from salt water.

BEW119

True, the zinc protects against galvanic corrosion from seawater which reacts with the connection of dissimilar metals.

IrishRed

Does anybody know how long the standard rust and corrosion warranty covers?

I'm noticing some bubbles on both sides of my rear cab corners.

My truck is a 2010 with 37,000 miles. Seems unacceptable to me.

Maybe one of the Ford Service reps on here can help me out.

y2kmxz

5 year /60,000 I believe. My 2007 had bubbles starting above the right rear fender at 5 year 1 month and 53000 dealer said it needed to be perforated through (ie hole) in order to be covered. Drove it for another year and 10,000 miles until 6 bubbles formed and then traded for a 2013. Ford wants them to start rusting out early so they can sell more trucks. Once I see rust the truck is out the door. Ford has me...hook-line-sinker.

albertschmitz

iTrader: (1)

I cannot say whether Ford or any manufacturer wants them to rust, but it happens. I agree, when a bubble or rust appears it is gone period. I cannot see letting it rot away for the factory warranty to cover it.

y2kmxz

My 2013 has been Krown treated twice. This is my first vehicle using the Krown treatment. With my 2007, the dealer was like "its galvanzied steel, it will take another 5 years for the panel to perforate". I told them its paper thin galvanized steel and if the paint is bubbling out the steel is beginning to perforating. It was a loosing battle.

21RRF150

iTrader: (1)

I really should keep my mouth shut, as I'm trying to get off of this forum. But I have a lot of experience in this area


It's 5 years/unlimited miles. But it has to be perforated. It's all in the warranty booklet you get with the truck. Take it in asap anyway. It should be covered anyway, It's becoming more common lately in those areas. And is turning into a problem. Due to the tape over the holes in the rocker panels holding the crap in there, sitting and just rotting. I have quite a few of those repairs under my belt(i was a painter at a ford body shop since 2008, left ford 3 weeks ago) , all under warranty.