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Anyone else HATE using load resistors for LED swaps?

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Old 09-01-2014, 09:36 AM
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Cant be turned off in the 2009 SJB. The "CANBUS" bulbs are just bulbs with resistors. All these systems work the same. They mesaure the load. If it is at or over the expected wattage it tells the flashing circuit to flash faster. Now what I should be able to do is adjust the expected wattage down so they hyper flash will actually still work if the LED's fail. But wont require and load resistors, special bulbs, or anything else.

Last edited by jpaytoncfd; 09-01-2014 at 09:38 AM. Reason: Meant to say 2009 not FORD
Old 09-01-2014, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
Still curious to the other differences, I am not willing to speculate when I have no idea.
"If it looks like a duck..."
Old 09-01-2014, 10:59 AM
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Apparently everyone else posting here is just as clueless, I have CANBUS leds in my front turn lamps and with headlights off they flash normal, with head lights on they hyper flash.


There is obviously some other factor here and no one that has posted is qualified to answer the question, just because it looks like a duck don't mean it will quack.


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Old 09-01-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jpaytoncfd
Cant be turned off in the 2009 SJB. The "CANBUS" bulbs are just bulbs with resistors. All these systems work the same. They mesaure the load. If it is at or over the expected wattage it tells the flashing circuit to flash faster. Now what I should be able to do is adjust the expected wattage down so they hyper flash will actually still work if the LED's fail. But wont require and load resistors, special bulbs, or anything else.
I believe that the LED's are measured in milliwatts. Thus it would be very difficult to measure this at the control. Line resistance will be your enemy, specifically for the different lengths if wire used to the different bulbs. The tolerance would have to be very tight. This is my hypothesis, and may not be true, but it's my bet why resistors are used.

Ian
Old 09-01-2014, 05:52 PM
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So, I take it our 150's don't have a flasher? In my Ranger I substituted an EP27 flasher to cure the hyperflash. All but my headlights are LED on that truck. I'd like to replace at least my tail lights on the 150 with LEDs, but now I'm confused. Just what is needed to prevent hyperflash? I guess those things from Amazon would work, I think. But adding load resistors just seems like a halfassed way.

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Old 09-01-2014, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by johnday
So, I take it our 150's don't have a flasher? In my Ranger I substituted an EP27 flasher to cure the hyperflash. All but my headlights are LED on that truck. I'd like to replace at least my tail lights on the 150 with LEDs, but now I'm confused. Just what is needed to prevent hyperflash? I guess those things from Amazon would work, I think. But adding load resistors just seems like a halfassed way.


No flasher like that, it's all computer controlled now.


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Old 09-01-2014, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
No flasher like that, it's all computer controlled now.


.

Hmm. So then, it appears we would have to induce a "fake" load on the circuit by using resistors, not necessarily the ones in question, but a resistor nonetheless. This brings up the question to me, how does this affect the CANBus system. I've no idea what it really is, let alone how it works, and if it is in fact something to consider, as in burning your truck up.
Maybe a moot point for a 2012 on down, I don't know for sure if mine is CAN bus or not.
Hey, I was an electrician once, not an electronics wizard.
Geez, I'm gonna sit back and watch for awhile.LOL
Old 09-01-2014, 09:26 PM
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I have used 6 ohm / 50 watt resistors on two trucks ... both which underwent a complete LED conversion (sans HIDs and halogen fogs).
One resistor for the front park/turn and two for the rear brake/turn per side ... six per truck. These are not difficult to install. Red scotch lock splicers and needle-nose pliers are all that is needed.

The good resistors come mounted in a heat sink and have 6" or so of sheathed leads (i.e., don't buy cheap ones), which you need for splicing/maneuvering. Once spliced and tested, I let the resistors hang freely when the head/tail assemblies are remounted (they aren't so heavy to cause stress on the wiring harnesses; pretty much has to be done that way). Free-hanging resistors means you have to exercise caution (which you should do anyway) when pulling any of the head/tail assemblies (straight out and gently).

Two trucks with no LED issues. Front park/turn and back brake/turn are 50w each in the stock assemblies.

Resistors can be found here for starters:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/searc...esistor%20led/
Old 09-02-2014, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jpaytoncfd
Cant be turned off in the 2009 SJB. The "CANBUS" bulbs are just bulbs with resistors. All these systems work the same. They mesaure the load. If it is at or over the expected wattage it tells the flashing circuit to flash faster. Now what I should be able to do is adjust the expected wattage down so they hyper flash will actually still work if the LED's fail. But wont require and load resistors, special bulbs, or anything else.
Wouldn't the wattage be "less" with LEDs? But, are you saying the CAN bus rated bulbs would take care of the hyperflashing if you have CAN in your vehicle? I'm not about to go fooling around with an electronic black box though.LOL
Old 09-02-2014, 04:32 AM
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[QUOTE=dosman;3681071]

Two trucks with no LED issues. Front park/turn and back brake/turn are 50w each in the stock assemblies.

Resistors can be found here for starters:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/searc...esistor%20led/[/QUOT

What year and make were these trucks?
Superbright is a good site to buy from, I've used them myself for a '01 Superdude, and my '04 Ranger.


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