Aftermarket heated seat inserts
#391
Senior Member
If you're going to tap the pass side why run to the drivers side? When the seats are removed, you can easily route it under the carpet with the other pass seat wiring.
I 'tapped' the 40A circuit from the front fuse box. It is for the inverter which I do not have. It ends at the connector near the ebrake on the drivers side. If you want a feed from the drivers side, I would look there.
I 'tapped' the 40A circuit from the front fuse box. It is for the inverter which I do not have. It ends at the connector near the ebrake on the drivers side. If you want a feed from the drivers side, I would look there.
#392
If you're going to tap the pass side why run to the drivers side? When the seats are removed, you can easily route it under the carpet with the other pass seat wiring.
I 'tapped' the 40A circuit from the front fuse box. It is for the inverter which I do not have. It ends at the connector near the ebrake on the drivers side. If you want a feed from the drivers side, I would look there.
I 'tapped' the 40A circuit from the front fuse box. It is for the inverter which I do not have. It ends at the connector near the ebrake on the drivers side. If you want a feed from the drivers side, I would look there.
Is that what most people are doing? I was only installing them on the drivers side, but that could be easier. Did you just go around the center console?
#393
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
I ran mine to the p.s. kick panel fuse box, to slot 33. This way if I leave mine in the on position when I shut off my truck, they come on with myb100 series oem remote start....
#394
Senior Member
I have two power connections. One is to power the seats and the other is the trigger that is intended to allow them to run when the ignition is on. Like an audio amp.
The control is a physical switch so if I had remote start I could set them to come on.
The inverter circuit was a handy source of 'always on' power. I ran the wire from the center of the instrument panel where the seat control is.
The control is a physical switch so if I had remote start I could set them to come on.
The inverter circuit was a handy source of 'always on' power. I ran the wire from the center of the instrument panel where the seat control is.
#395
bump
#396
One Clean Machine
iTrader: (5)
#397
#398
Senior Member
I installed a fuse block under the hood which then uses a fuse tap from 33 to switch on a relay that provides power to the fuse block.
Seats warmers, powered rear view mirror, and led lights are powered off of it at the moment.
Seats warmers, powered rear view mirror, and led lights are powered off of it at the moment.
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freddyttt (11-19-2015)
#400
It isn't difficult at all. You will need a ratchet set and a T50 Torx to remove the seats. You'll need something to cut the hog rings in the seat. I used aviation snips. I reassembled with zip ties instead of hog rings. You will also need scissors to cut the heating pad to make room for the hog rings or zip ties.
The first seat took me about 2.5 hours start to finish, because I was being very careful and taking my time. The second about 90 minutes - removing seat, to seat back in.
Most people put the switches on the side of the seat, near the seat controls. I put them at the bottom of my center stack so both passengers can reach. I'll move them to my console when I have one. With your flow through console you'd have to do something different.
EDIT: If you were thinking of this... don't bother taking your climate control apart to put the switches in the stock location, between the two *****. The PC board runs behind the blanks so it is impossible.
The first seat took me about 2.5 hours start to finish, because I was being very careful and taking my time. The second about 90 minutes - removing seat, to seat back in.
Most people put the switches on the side of the seat, near the seat controls. I put them at the bottom of my center stack so both passengers can reach. I'll move them to my console when I have one. With your flow through console you'd have to do something different.
EDIT: If you were thinking of this... don't bother taking your climate control apart to put the switches in the stock location, between the two *****. The PC board runs behind the blanks so it is impossible.
You said not to bother with the climate control, would it work if I got a new climate control that already had the heated seats switch installed on it?