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Old 03-11-2014, 01:21 PM   #21
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All good points. The only wires I'm going to hack are the speaker wires. They seem easy enough to identify and reconnect when the time comes to remove the after market stuff. My truck is out of warranty so I'm not to worried about the dealership...
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:41 PM   #22
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ianinedm, ryan_r_simpson, thanks guys I appreciate it! I'll use this as motivation and get off my butt and finish my write up. I don't want to highjack GTOdrifter thread my total cost was $945 (including building my sub box twice)

ryan_r_simpson, I looked at the bit ten those are nice, I ended up with the Cleansweep because i got both for $150 and couldn't pass on that deal I was moving towards the 3Sixty.3 or something from audio control also and if the cleansweep ever fails I'll probably swap it out. that's why I ended up with the cleansweep and an eq, still the total was like $210 for all that hardware

ososlow, that looks like the same 9 conductor wire I used, they are good for keeping the cabling clean, but man they are hard to run.

GTOdrifter, in regards to running lines down the middle of the truck, I've seen pics of folks doing it but they normally were also taking out the seats and carpet, I chose to go down the sides, cause it's really easy in these trucks and you're extra is about 4/5ft. If you do go that route, I think there is channeling there so the cables won't bulge up the carpet.

As for cutting the wires, trust me I sat there for a good 20 minutes with the clippers on the wire before I was extra sure I wanted to do this with 8 different websites up and printed diagrams, lol With the oem nav systems there is no choice...no aftermarket harness exists it really wasn't bad at all and I learned a lot about the truck and getting a truly good clean sounding system in the process. And the cool thing is I can completely remove every bit of my aftermaket setup and install the factory stuff within 2 hours (give or take a dropped screw in the door)

Check out Jmeo's thread, I got alot of my inspiration from his work:
http://www.f150forum.com/f38/2009-20...191053/index2/

and here's the location for the stereo wiring diagrams, check out page 3 maybe: http://www.intyss.com/downloads/2010F150AUDIO.pdf
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:05 PM   #23
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Wow. Thanks for the advice kmaximus. It is interesting to note that inducing noise into a system is much more likely when using low level inputs rather than speaker level. Especially when using an LOC like the PAC. All these harness and modules just don't seem very elegant to me and where a source of confusion to me when I started learning the best way to do a system with the SNYC. In the past I have always used after-market HU so between retaining the factory HU and using high level input I had somewhat of a learning curve.
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:19 PM   #24
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yeah, I can contest to that, when I had the system with speaker level inputs it was silent....I ran into a very odd issue where my factory oem amp was sending voltage down to the rear right speaker wire....it cooked 1 oem speaker prior to my upgrade and cooked one of my infinities as I was upgrading...got the amp replaced, but decided to go the RCA cable route.

the biggest introduction of noise to my system is the cleansweep. because i wanted to retain factory volume, I had to set their **** at a good level and leave it vs the way they want it where I set the factory volume and use their **** to adjust....that rules out using the steering wheel controls After many hours of tweaking I found a good balance between the cleansweep and amp, but boo to noise for sure!
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:27 PM   #25
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Oh, check out this thread, this is where I got the idea for the sub box, but also they go into some detail on the band spectrum and how f'd up it is from ford....

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...50-raptor.html

in my setup, I'm using the cleansweep to take the ford signal and clean and flatten it, then using the eq to tweak it to my liking.
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Old 03-11-2014, 04:25 PM   #26
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Can I see your enclosure Kmaximus? I am piecing my system together from Amazon and am definitely going for bang-for-the-buck. I am going with a 5 channel amp an enclosure a sub and 4 5x7's,a capacitor and a wiring kit and am going to keep it under 400 buck. Sounds to good to be true but it is all priced out. I'm interested in what sub you used for your enclosure and if you have any recommendations for me. I'll post the links to my items but do not know how to hotlink them. The box is 0.80 cubic feet with a mounting depth of 6.25 inches. I'd really like to avoid a real shallow mount woofer.
Amp:
Amazon.com: Sound Storm Laboratories EVO2900.5 EVO Series 2900-Watt 5-Channel MOSFET, 350 W x 4 and 1500 W x 1, High/Low X-Over, with Remote Sub Level Control: Electronics Amazon.com: Sound Storm Laboratories EVO2900.5 EVO Series 2900-Watt 5-Channel MOSFET, 350 W x 4 and 1500 W x 1, High/Low X-Over, with Remote Sub Level Control: Electronics

Enclosure:
Amazon.com: ASC Ford F150 Super Crew Cab Truck 2009-2014 Single 12" Subwoofer Custom Fit Sub Box Speaker Enclosure: Car Electronics Amazon.com: ASC Ford F150 Super Crew Cab Truck 2009-2014 Single 12" Subwoofer Custom Fit Sub Box Speaker Enclosure: Car Electronics

5X7:
Amazon.com: Kicker DS68 (6x8) Coaxial Speakers 140 Watts Peak: Electronics Amazon.com: Kicker DS68 (6x8) Coaxial Speakers 140 Watts Peak: Electronics

Cap:
Amazon.com: Soundquest SQCAP2M 2 Farad Power Capacitor with Digital Display: Electronics Amazon.com: Soundquest SQCAP2M 2 Farad Power Capacitor with Digital Display: Electronics

Wiring Kit:
Amazon.com: Soundquest SQK4ANL CCA 4 Gauge Wiring Kit: Electronics Amazon.com: Soundquest SQK4ANL CCA 4 Gauge Wiring Kit: Electronics
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Old 03-11-2014, 04:26 PM   #27
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Can I see your enclosure Kmaximus? I am piecing my system together from Amazon and am definitely going for bang-for-the-buck. I am going with a 5 channel amp an enclosure a sub and 4 5x7's,a capacitor and a wiring kit and am going to keep it under 400 buck. Sounds to good to be true but it is all priced out. I'm interested in what sub you used for your enclosure and if you have any recommendations for me. I'll post the links to my items but do not know how to hotlink them. The box is 0.80 cubic feet with a mounting depth of 6.25 inches. I'd really like to avoid a real shallow mount woofer.
Amp:
Amazon.com: Sound Storm Laboratories EVO2900.5 EVO Series 2900-Watt 5-Channel MOSFET, 350 W x 4 and 1500 W x 1, High/Low X-Over, with Remote Sub Level Control: Electronics Amazon.com: Sound Storm Laboratories EVO2900.5 EVO Series 2900-Watt 5-Channel MOSFET, 350 W x 4 and 1500 W x 1, High/Low X-Over, with Remote Sub Level Control: Electronics

Enclosure:
Amazon.com: ASC Ford F150 Super Crew Cab Truck 2009-2014 Single 12" Subwoofer Custom Fit Sub Box Speaker Enclosure: Car Electronics Amazon.com: ASC Ford F150 Super Crew Cab Truck 2009-2014 Single 12" Subwoofer Custom Fit Sub Box Speaker Enclosure: Car Electronics

5X7:
Amazon.com: Kicker DS68 (6x8) Coaxial Speakers 140 Watts Peak: Electronics Amazon.com: Kicker DS68 (6x8) Coaxial Speakers 140 Watts Peak: Electronics

Cap:
Amazon.com: Soundquest SQCAP2M 2 Farad Power Capacitor with Digital Display: Electronics Amazon.com: Soundquest SQCAP2M 2 Farad Power Capacitor with Digital Display: Electronics

Wiring Kit:
Amazon.com: Soundquest SQK4ANL CCA 4 Gauge Wiring Kit: Electronics Amazon.com: Soundquest SQK4ANL CCA 4 Gauge Wiring Kit: Electronics
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Old 03-11-2014, 04:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaximus View Post
ianinedm, ryan_r_simpson, thanks guys I appreciate it! I'll use this as motivation and get off my butt and finish my write up. I don't want to highjack GTOdrifter thread my total cost was $945 (including building my sub box twice)

ryan_r_simpson, I looked at the bit ten those are nice, I ended up with the Cleansweep because i got both for $150 and couldn't pass on that deal I was moving towards the 3Sixty.3 or something from audio control also and if the cleansweep ever fails I'll probably swap it out. that's why I ended up with the cleansweep and an eq, still the total was like $210 for all that hardware

ososlow, that looks like the same 9 conductor wire I used, they are good for keeping the cabling clean, but man they are hard to run.

GTOdrifter, in regards to running lines down the middle of the truck, I've seen pics of folks doing it but they normally were also taking out the seats and carpet, I chose to go down the sides, cause it's really easy in these trucks and you're extra is about 4/5ft. If you do go that route, I think there is channeling there so the cables won't bulge up the carpet.

As for cutting the wires, trust me I sat there for a good 20 minutes with the clippers on the wire before I was extra sure I wanted to do this with 8 different websites up and printed diagrams, lol With the oem nav systems there is no choice...no aftermarket harness exists it really wasn't bad at all and I learned a lot about the truck and getting a truly good clean sounding system in the process. And the cool thing is I can completely remove every bit of my aftermaket setup and install the factory stuff within 2 hours (give or take a dropped screw in the door)

Check out Jmeo's thread, I got alot of my inspiration from his work:
http://www.f150forum.com/f38/2009-20...191053/index2/

and here's the location for the stereo wiring diagrams, check out page 3 maybe: http://www.intyss.com/downloads/2010F150AUDIO.pdf
Thanks man, i'll check out those threads. The overall price you paid is way less than i thought. Can you take some pics of the amps and line converters etc? I would like to read up a bit more on those parts to grasp everything. if no pics, can you jot down the model numbers?

Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:20 AM   #29
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GTOdrifter, the sub I'm using is this guy: Pioneer TS-SW3001S2, shallow mount 12, my whole system is 2ohm and the enclosure for the sub I custom made. it was my first attempt at making a sub box, but tried to keep it close to spec as possible. I'm right at 0.65 cubic feet with 3/4 MDF. The first box I made was 1/2in MDF and it flexed horrible, lesson learned I'm attaching some pics from my construction of the enclosure, I have the measurements somewhere on a notepad, I'll have to locate them

Subs now about 30 bucks cheaper than when I bought it, lol.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SW3001S2.html

here's the parts list, I'm putting in my build up thread. the amp, and cleansweep came from ebay, which is why my cost was so low.

Electronic Parts List:
Alpine MRX-V70 Amp
Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control
JL Audio SSI & DSP
Boss EQ600
Infinity Kappa 6829CF
JBL GTO608C
Pioneer TS-SW3001S2


Hardware/Installation Parts List:
EFX reVoPAK4 by Scosche Amp Kit
5x Rockford Fosgate RFI-6 Interconnects
2x JL Audio Speaker Wire XA-CLR9CON-20
2x T-Spec V12DB-1144 Distribution Blocks


The rest are screws, mdf, carpet, zip ties and velcro.
Attached Thumbnails
5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1581.jpg   5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1591.jpg   5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1592.jpg   5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1595.jpg   5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1010.jpg  

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Old 03-12-2014, 10:24 AM   #30
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ianinedm, attaching some additional close ups of the gear before I mounted them in the truck, hope this and the parts list helps
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5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1843.jpg   5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1842.jpg   5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1839.jpg   5 Channel Amp/High Level Input-img_1832.jpg  
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:24 AM
 
 
 
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