Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like they are taking care of the 5.0's the same way they took care of the 5.4 2V with blowing out spark plugs and the 5.4 3V with the cam phaser issues. Just wish there was a better truck out there than Ford.

MEZERR

I would get that looked at. That's not the same knocking sound as this thread is describing. If you listen to other videos, the knock repetition is faster. It's knocking once per cycle per cyclinder. You knocking sound is a lot slower. It doesn't knocking in relation to a piston cycle. Maybe an accessory belt thing?

Butters_33

iTrader: (1)

You're quite right. I was actually going through this thread when you posted, trying to find a video with a similar knocking to mine. After a few pages I realized mine was different.

I'm going to call up the stealership tomorrow as soon as they open to schedule an appointment.

piperville

Are you in Canada? I seem to be the only one. Let me kno how it goes ...

I used a stethoscope and checked my cats and they are quiet. I checked the bottom oil pan and quiet. I put it to the oil fill hole and could here it banging away so does that mean its the top end? Maybe just a collapsed lifter. I don't know.

MEZERR

The knocking noise is definitely 100% block (but what part nobody really knows). Ticking would be valve noise.

FYI - I'm in Canada, and successfully CAMVAP'd Chrysler Canada. Full buy back, no reduction in usage + some extra.

http://natemeyer.ca/camvap

Combat vet

The 2011, 2012 and some 2013 5.0's are known to have distorted cylinders. The cylinder sleeves are very thin and the cooling jacket at the block deck has been opened up. This change to the cooling jacket removed material that would otherwise add support to the top of the cylinder. This engine does not have the traditional hydraulic lifter. They have roller rockers and followers. It is possible to have cam lobe wear or rocker/follower wear that would create a louder tick or tap in the valvetrain.
The deeper knock that most of us hear is, in my opinion, coming from piston slap. Ford knows about the cylinder distortion, but a lot of dealers act as though they've never heard about it. Some of us get new short or long blocks, while others are told that the knock is "normal." I call a big BS to it being normal or inheritant to the 5.0 engine. If it's normal, then why do some knock and others don't? With no TSB, it becomes a case by case issue with the dealer and the tech that is performing the diagnosis. Even with a diagnosis that points to a cylinder or piston failure, the big boys at Ford have to give the approval for an engine replacement. Document with videos and oil analysis, unless the motor grenades and then hope the tech does a good job on the block R&R.

Nittoas21

This worries me a little seeing as how I have a 2014 but it says 11/13 build date. So far she's quite and at 40k. Good luck to all the guys with bad blocks.

Heres hoping for the best and expecting the worse.

Combat vet

With your late 2013 build date, you probably don't have anything to worry about. Here's a link to another F150 forum and a thread about the 5.0 knock. This guy has piston and ring failure on the right bank, cyl's 3&4; this is where a lot of the cylinder distortion is showing up.

http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...c8c7d&start=20

MEZERR

The coyote 5.0L V8 does have a hydraulic lifter, but they call it a hydraulic valve lash adjuster. It's the same thing as a lifter. It's right from the Coyote 5.0L V8 WIKI article.

"The Coyote features all new 4V DOHC cylinder heads that have shifted the camshafts outboard, which allowed for a compact roller finger follower setup with remote hydraulic valve lash adjusters and improved (raised) intake port geometry. The result is an intake port that outflows the Ford GT intake port by 4 percent and the Yates D3 (NASCAR) intake port up to 0.472" (12 mm) lift, which is the maximum lift of the Coyote's intake cams. Engine redline is 7000 rpm.[13"

This is the reason for a hydraluic lifter. If any wear occurs, the hydralic lifter fixes the gap left by the wear. We do indeed have that!

Typically, piston slap occurs when the engine is cold, and goes away within minutes after starting. This is because the metal expands when heated. The piston is moving around when cold, causing the noise. That's not what's happening here. The knocking described in this thread occurs once warmed up, and doesn't disappear. And even comes and goes. I don't believe it's traditional piston slap.

piperville

Holy Crap man you have been to hell and back! Good for you tho! I wouldn't have the patients to go this route so I hope I dont have to