4" lift with coilovers
09-13-2012, 01:57 PM
#11
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Kytann
Meh. I decided against the 4" with coilovers because it was too tall. 6" would be even taller. But 4" or 6" isn't the question. The question is about getting coil-overs for one of the lifts. And it's totally do-able. Like I said I was talking to the Icon guys and the lead time was two weeks for custom made coil-overs. He just needed the specifications.
Say for example the Rancho 4" kit. With that kit you have to buy longer shocks anyway. So instead of buying the longer shocks Rancho sells, you could just order the Icons for not that much more money.
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS999806-RS9000XL-Series-Shock/dp/B003CSSVAS
Or
Icons are $1320
So for $1000 extra a person could have quality coilovers with their lift kit.
Say for example the Rancho 4" kit. With that kit you have to buy longer shocks anyway. So instead of buying the longer shocks Rancho sells, you could just order the Icons for not that much more money.
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS999806-RS9000XL-Series-Shock/dp/B003CSSVAS
Or
Icons are $1320
So for $1000 extra a person could have quality coilovers with their lift kit.
09-13-2012, 02:05 PM
#12
Senior Member
Not that he mentioned in our phone conversation, though I obviously didn't order them. You do pay list price though, whereas just buying off the shelf items I've found Icons discounted below MSRP.
09-13-2012, 07:40 PM
#15
Senior Member
I think some people don't quite understand the impact of increaseing the lenght of the shock strut without changing out the steering knuckle and other parts; you can't just add a longer coil over...if you do, this is what happens:
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09-13-2012, 07:53 PM
#16
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jonbar 87 I am with you on that one, that's why I am looking for a proper 4" lift with coilovers. I also want different ucas to go with the front and different springs to lift the back.
09-14-2012, 10:13 AM
#18
Senior Member
As far as the coil-overs, they're adjustable from between 0 and 3" of lift. How they get to 3" without contacting the spring is probably because the spring is smaller diameter than the stock spring.
But, you still have the Upper control arms at too much of an angle, and you still have the axles at too much of an angle. Therefore increased wear on your CV joints and your ball joints.
A proper lift kit fixes all of these issues. But it's the most expensive, of course. Also a proper lift kit increases the center of gravity too far for my liking.
The other thing to consider if you are trying to fit larger tires is the minimum shock length. So if you hit a really big bump at speed and compress the front suspension to it's bump stops, will your big tires still clear? This consideration is why I did NOT use the bilsteins. They move the spring perch to attain some lift, but still allow for full compression, making it possible to rub bigger tires, or worse.
A real 4" or 6" lift kit also does away with this problem because the new shocks are longer.
Anyway, interesting discussion, and way off of the original posters questions.
When I was first looking into lifting the truck, I wanted to increase wheel travel as much as possible, and fit bigger tires for going off-road. You can get a little bit of extra travel from long-travel upper control arms. But you still need room for the big tires. My original plan was to go with a Rancho 4" kit, long-travel Upper Control Arms with stainless ball joints (stainless for the rust and salt we have here in the north), and custom length coil-overs by Icon. Then I figured out the price and decided to wait until I've got the truck paid off to do that, as that is truly the most expensive option.
$1350 - Rancho 4" kit
$1300 - Icon coil-overs
$750 - Upper Control Arms
$???? - Long-Travel rear leaf spring (because blocks are totally the wrong way to lift the rear of a truck) Raptor performance group maybe? Deaver?
$??? - Rear Shocks
And we're easily over $5000 for the parts alone. And that doesn't include the tires. At that rate a person might as well just buy a Raptor instead, and have it all covered by warranty, which will also increase your resale value as well.
Anyway, that's the conclusion I came up with, and why after all that I just did a Budget Boost and some plastic trimming.
09-14-2012, 10:39 AM
#19
Good explanation of the difference between a lift kit and a leveling kit. There's also the matter of CV joint angles in your half-shafts (axles). I was gonna write up a thing about it but I got tired of explaining things.
As far as the coil-overs, they're adjustable from between 0 and 3" of lift. How they get to 3" without contacting the spring is probably because the spring is smaller diameter than the stock spring.
But, you still have the Upper control arms at too much of an angle, and you still have the axles at too much of an angle. Therefore increased wear on your CV joints and your ball joints.
A proper lift kit fixes all of these issues. But it's the most expensive, of course. Also a proper lift kit increases the center of gravity too far for my liking.
The other thing to consider if you are trying to fit larger tires is the minimum shock length. So if you hit a really big bump at speed and compress the front suspension to it's bump stops, will your big tires still clear? This consideration is why I did NOT use the bilsteins. They move the spring perch to attain some lift, but still allow for full compression, making it possible to rub bigger tires, or worse.
A real 4" or 6" lift kit also does away with this problem because the new shocks are longer.
Anyway, interesting discussion, and way off of the original posters questions.
When I was first looking into lifting the truck, I wanted to increase wheel travel as much as possible, and fit bigger tires for going off-road. You can get a little bit of extra travel from long-travel upper control arms. But you still need room for the big tires. My original plan was to go with a Rancho 4" kit, long-travel Upper Control Arms with stainless ball joints (stainless for the rust and salt we have here in the north), and custom length coil-overs by Icon. Then I figured out the price and decided to wait until I've got the truck paid off to do that, as that is truly the most expensive option.
$1350 - Rancho 4" kit
$1300 - Icon coil-overs
$750 - Upper Control Arms
$???? - Long-Travel rear leaf spring (because blocks are totally the wrong way to lift the rear of a truck) Raptor performance group maybe? Deaver?
$??? - Rear Shocks
And we're easily over $5000 for the parts alone. And that doesn't include the tires. At that rate a person might as well just buy a Raptor instead, and have it all covered by warranty, which will also increase your resale value as well.
Anyway, that's the conclusion I came up with, and why after all that I just did a Budget Boost and some plastic trimming.
As far as the coil-overs, they're adjustable from between 0 and 3" of lift. How they get to 3" without contacting the spring is probably because the spring is smaller diameter than the stock spring.
But, you still have the Upper control arms at too much of an angle, and you still have the axles at too much of an angle. Therefore increased wear on your CV joints and your ball joints.
A proper lift kit fixes all of these issues. But it's the most expensive, of course. Also a proper lift kit increases the center of gravity too far for my liking.
The other thing to consider if you are trying to fit larger tires is the minimum shock length. So if you hit a really big bump at speed and compress the front suspension to it's bump stops, will your big tires still clear? This consideration is why I did NOT use the bilsteins. They move the spring perch to attain some lift, but still allow for full compression, making it possible to rub bigger tires, or worse.
A real 4" or 6" lift kit also does away with this problem because the new shocks are longer.
Anyway, interesting discussion, and way off of the original posters questions.
When I was first looking into lifting the truck, I wanted to increase wheel travel as much as possible, and fit bigger tires for going off-road. You can get a little bit of extra travel from long-travel upper control arms. But you still need room for the big tires. My original plan was to go with a Rancho 4" kit, long-travel Upper Control Arms with stainless ball joints (stainless for the rust and salt we have here in the north), and custom length coil-overs by Icon. Then I figured out the price and decided to wait until I've got the truck paid off to do that, as that is truly the most expensive option.
$1350 - Rancho 4" kit
$1300 - Icon coil-overs
$750 - Upper Control Arms
$???? - Long-Travel rear leaf spring (because blocks are totally the wrong way to lift the rear of a truck) Raptor performance group maybe? Deaver?
$??? - Rear Shocks
And we're easily over $5000 for the parts alone. And that doesn't include the tires. At that rate a person might as well just buy a Raptor instead, and have it all covered by warranty, which will also increase your resale value as well.
Anyway, that's the conclusion I came up with, and why after all that I just did a Budget Boost and some plastic trimming.
Yup, exactly what I've been thinking of myself. Almost makes it not worth it for me any more and I hate thinking about it every day hahaha.
09-14-2012, 11:21 AM
#20
Senior Member
Good explanation of the difference between a lift kit and a leveling kit. There's also the matter of CV joint angles in your half-shafts (axles). I was gonna write up a thing about it but I got tired of explaining things.
As far as the coil-overs, they're adjustable from between 0 and 3" of lift. How they get to 3" without contacting the spring is probably because the spring is smaller diameter than the stock spring.
But, you still have the Upper control arms at too much of an angle, and you still have the axles at too much of an angle. Therefore increased wear on your CV joints and your ball joints.
A proper lift kit fixes all of these issues. But it's the most expensive, of course. Also a proper lift kit increases the center of gravity too far for my liking.
The other thing to consider if you are trying to fit larger tires is the minimum shock length. So if you hit a really big bump at speed and compress the front suspension to it's bump stops, will your big tires still clear? This consideration is why I did NOT use the bilsteins. They move the spring perch to attain some lift, but still allow for full compression, making it possible to rub bigger tires, or worse.
A real 4" or 6" lift kit also does away with this problem because the new shocks are longer.
Anyway, interesting discussion, and way off of the original posters questions.
When I was first looking into lifting the truck, I wanted to increase wheel travel as much as possible, and fit bigger tires for going off-road. You can get a little bit of extra travel from long-travel upper control arms. But you still need room for the big tires. My original plan was to go with a Rancho 4" kit, long-travel Upper Control Arms with stainless ball joints (stainless for the rust and salt we have here in the north), and custom length coil-overs by Icon. Then I figured out the price and decided to wait until I've got the truck paid off to do that, as that is truly the most expensive option.
$1350 - Rancho 4" kit
$1300 - Icon coil-overs
$750 - Upper Control Arms
$???? - Long-Travel rear leaf spring (because blocks are totally the wrong way to lift the rear of a truck) Raptor performance group maybe? Deaver?
$??? - Rear Shocks
And we're easily over $5000 for the parts alone. And that doesn't include the tires. At that rate a person might as well just buy a Raptor instead, and have it all covered by warranty, which will also increase your resale value as well.
Anyway, that's the conclusion I came up with, and why after all that I just did a Budget Boost and some plastic trimming.
As far as the coil-overs, they're adjustable from between 0 and 3" of lift. How they get to 3" without contacting the spring is probably because the spring is smaller diameter than the stock spring.
But, you still have the Upper control arms at too much of an angle, and you still have the axles at too much of an angle. Therefore increased wear on your CV joints and your ball joints.
A proper lift kit fixes all of these issues. But it's the most expensive, of course. Also a proper lift kit increases the center of gravity too far for my liking.
The other thing to consider if you are trying to fit larger tires is the minimum shock length. So if you hit a really big bump at speed and compress the front suspension to it's bump stops, will your big tires still clear? This consideration is why I did NOT use the bilsteins. They move the spring perch to attain some lift, but still allow for full compression, making it possible to rub bigger tires, or worse.
A real 4" or 6" lift kit also does away with this problem because the new shocks are longer.
Anyway, interesting discussion, and way off of the original posters questions.
When I was first looking into lifting the truck, I wanted to increase wheel travel as much as possible, and fit bigger tires for going off-road. You can get a little bit of extra travel from long-travel upper control arms. But you still need room for the big tires. My original plan was to go with a Rancho 4" kit, long-travel Upper Control Arms with stainless ball joints (stainless for the rust and salt we have here in the north), and custom length coil-overs by Icon. Then I figured out the price and decided to wait until I've got the truck paid off to do that, as that is truly the most expensive option.
$1350 - Rancho 4" kit
$1300 - Icon coil-overs
$750 - Upper Control Arms
$???? - Long-Travel rear leaf spring (because blocks are totally the wrong way to lift the rear of a truck) Raptor performance group maybe? Deaver?
$??? - Rear Shocks
And we're easily over $5000 for the parts alone. And that doesn't include the tires. At that rate a person might as well just buy a Raptor instead, and have it all covered by warranty, which will also increase your resale value as well.
Anyway, that's the conclusion I came up with, and why after all that I just did a Budget Boost and some plastic trimming.