3.73 to 4.10s
01-05-2017, 10:51 AM
#22
Any advise on identifying what gears the truck has? Is there a sticker or tag somewher? Just got a used 2014 xlt with a 6.2l. Hope this isn't too noobish of a question 
01-05-2017, 11:22 AM
#23
Senior Member
I've got 3.73s from the factory and am on 35x12.50s. I'm torn on this as well. it moves around okay as it is with several performance modifications and tuning, but it is starting to get to the point where it doesn't like cruising in 6th gear in the mountains like it did with 33s. I'm currently on a 2.5" level but plan to move up to a 6" lift in the spring, and was originally planning on staying on my 35s but lately I've been considering moving up to 37s and then regearing to 4.56s. for the investment of regearing both diffs I don't see the sense in only going up to a 4.10, I think the difference would be pretty negligible.
I cant fit 37s now, but maybe later I could.
01-05-2017, 11:35 AM
#24
Let the Fun Begin
I regeared both front and back from a 3.73 to a 4.56 yukon. Im running 35's , 2010 5.4 also lifted 6 inches ...i love it! gives enough torque, rpms climb nicely. Only downside is if you plan on doing 90+ on a highway...RPMS start getting up there :-(
01-05-2017, 01:53 PM
#25
Senior Member
the two times a year the freeways are clear here, we all do around 80 MPH .
01-05-2017, 02:05 PM
#26
Senior Member
I went from 3.55 to 4.11 and have 34"/66lb tires.
Anyone that says 3.55 gears push 35" tires just fine must live on a flat earth. That or they like the sound/feeling of their truck downshifting to 5th/4th gear at every incline.
A 50% increase in tire weight isn't "just fine" to your truck with the 5.0 or anything short of the Ecoboost.
Anyone that says 3.55 gears push 35" tires just fine must live on a flat earth. That or they like the sound/feeling of their truck downshifting to 5th/4th gear at every incline.
A 50% increase in tire weight isn't "just fine" to your truck with the 5.0 or anything short of the Ecoboost.
Going from 3.73 to 4.10 is a total waste of time and money. Nobody is going to even be able to detect the 150 RPM difference on the tach needle. Do what this guy did and go on up to 4.56 if you really feel you must regear.
I have done my own regears at home on my cars and trucks in the past. I've done everything up to 4.88s, depending on vehicle. In my experience, the difference is much less noticeable than most people will claim. It's better to increase engine power than gearing, if at all possible. Once you open the diffs and regear, you open a whole new can of worms that you may not realize. Too much to even go into detail about right now.
01-05-2017, 02:45 PM
#27
Came from this PDF, specific to 2014. I have 3.73
https://www.ford.com/resources/ford/...F150_Sep11.pdf
01-05-2017, 04:38 PM
#28
Easiest way is to use Ford ETIS website. Put in your vin and you will see the build info straight from Ford. It's not as clean looking as the now defunct window sticker generator site but it will show you your gears and other options.
http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=BCD76BA844E40398C 6E84C4FD2788727.fcvas502
http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=BCD76BA844E40398C 6E84C4FD2788727.fcvas502
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