20x12 Wheels with 35's
10-12-2015, 08:37 PM
#11
If you are willing to cut metal then ya, you can get 35's to work with a 12" wide wheel on a 2.5" lift. Even with running a 33" tire you will still have to trim a ton, but will work a lot easier. The only way to keep from having to cut to much will be to do a new front bumper like add or nfab. And even then you will still have to trim back side of fender
10-12-2015, 11:59 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Then how did 09WhiteXL fit a 34.4 diameter tire on a 2in level? Being that my 2.5in level is on a lariat 4x4 I should be fine then to run 35x12.5 right? Remember the only thing am worried about is diameter because the negative offset will help out with the width of the tire.
Was told to post my truck, runnin 315/70/17's on stock '06 STX rims, tires measure exactly to 34" on the truck. Can post more pics if yall want em. All I did was cut a small part off the very bottom of the inner fender, the front part. No rub anywhere, even when turning sharp at 20-30, or turning over speed bumps. Got a 2" leveling kit by HBS, no lift, 4x2 XL.
Forgot to include my tires are Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 2's, which are great I might add, and I paid $1,300 for everything: $100 for rims off craigslist, $1,200 for tires, lifetime alignments, install of rear blocks, and install of leveling kit. Firestone gave me a pretty good deal I believe
Thought Id throw these in for fun lol
Forgot to include my tires are Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 2's, which are great I might add, and I paid $1,300 for everything: $100 for rims off craigslist, $1,200 for tires, lifetime alignments, install of rear blocks, and install of leveling kit. Firestone gave me a pretty good deal I believe
Thought Id throw these in for fun lol
10-13-2015, 12:42 AM
#13
Then how did 09WhiteXL fit a 34.4 diameter tire on a 2in level? Being that my 2.5in level is on a lariat 4x4 I should be fine then to run 35x12.5 right? Remember the only thing am worried about is diameter because the negative offset will help out with the width of the tire.
I have 35x12.5 on 20x10 with -18mm offset with a 6 in suspension lift. And I had to trim a lot of plastic and a good bit of metal off inner fenders behind flares with an angle grinder and i still rub sometimes. Thats with a aftermarket ranch hand bumper that has a lot of clearance so that wasn’t a factor for me. With 35s on 12 wides and -44 offset you will without a doubt have to cut like crazy on your stock bumper along major cutting of plastic and steel on your fenders and still probably won’t clear if you do go with that big of a negative offset. The bigger negative offset actually makes the rubbing worse since it pushes tire further out therefore increasing the “swing” of the tire. Contrary to what you believe now if the tires are more tucked under the truck they are less likely to rub on the fenders when turning out but more likely to rub ucas.
I’m not even sure 33s and -44 offset would fit with just a level could be wrong but I think even then you’d be in for some major hacking but hey what do we know I say go for it prove us all wrong and just get some fresh wheels for the angle grinder and cut the fenders all the way out like a damn mud truck if you need to anything for “stance” I guess
Last edited by kingranch10; 10-13-2015 at 01:02 AM.
10-13-2015, 01:07 AM
#15
I concur we would love to see you try the 12 wide rims -44 offset and 35s if you do decide to go that route this link will come in handy lol http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...cutting101.htm
10-13-2015, 01:26 AM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Then with a 20x9 wheel and a 35x12.9 tire what would be a good offset? There is a guy with 0 offset that has done it with just trimming plastics but what about a -12mm wheel
12-25-2015, 06:54 PM
#17
I have a 2012 with a 6in Rough Country lift and the sam spec wheels you are asking about, 20x12 with -44 offset. I have 35x12.5 tires. The tire runs at full lock on the rear of the fender where it mounts to the body. The only way to make it stop (from what I read others did) is to put a 1.5 level on to of the lift kit, or go with a 20x10 wheel with a smaller offset like -24 o so. With that being said, I Think the OP will not be able to fit a 20x12 wheel with a -44 offset. I hope this helps. The shop that put my lift kit and wheels/tires will have to do something to fix my rub. The truck looks awesome. Just not useable now with the rub.
12-26-2015, 12:20 AM
#18
I have a 2012 with a 6in Rough Country lift and the sam spec wheels you are asking about, 20x12 with -44 offset. I have 35x12.5 tires. The tire runs at full lock on the rear of the fender where it mounts to the body. The only way to make it stop (from what I read others did) is to put a 1.5 level on to of the lift kit, or go with a 20x10 wheel with a smaller offset like -24 o so. With that being said, I Think the OP will not be able to fit a 20x12 wheel with a -44 offset. I hope this helps. The shop that put my lift kit and wheels/tires will have to do something to fix my rub. The truck looks awesome. Just not useable now with the rub.
Thanks for bringing this topic back up. We tried to tell the OP, but he could not understand the relationship between wheel width, offset and tire diameter.
If you've seen the Rough Country level, there is no way in hell I'd stack a 1.5" Leveling kit on top of the huge spacer the RC kit comes with. I would either find a less aggressive wheel or look into some custom coilovers to replace the stock front shocks and spacers. Could also try using some Bilstein adjustable shocks with the RC spacers and adjust the perch which would be safer than stacking a level kit.
You could also consider a body lift... IMO, I've never liked the look since it leaves the frame exposed with an ugly gap.
Last edited by white_dc; 12-26-2015 at 12:23 AM.
12-26-2015, 07:27 AM
#19
Thanks for bringing this topic back up. We tried to tell the OP, but he could not understand the relationship between wheel width, offset and tire diameter. If you've seen the Rough Country level, there is no way in hell I'd stack a 1.5" Leveling kit on top of the huge spacer the RC kit comes with. I would either find a less aggressive wheel or look into some custom coilovers to replace the stock front shocks and spacers. Could also try using some Bilstein adjustable shocks with the RC spacers and adjust the perch which would be safer than stacking a level kit. You could also consider a body lift... IMO, I've never liked the look since it leaves the frame exposed with an ugly gap.
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