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For 2014, Ford changed the way the lower strut mounts to the Lower Control Arm. Therefore, there are 2 methods that can be used to install a leveling kit. One method is to disconnect the entire LCA from the frame. The second method, which I will explain below, will show you how to do the install where you slide out the half-shaft.
Driver's Side Install
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Jack up the side to be worked on and use a jack stand to support the truck on the frame rail. Remove the tire.
3. Disconnect the Lower Sway Bar Link attached to the LCA using an 18mm deep socket. Remove the 3 bolts holding the 2 silver and 1 black brake line brackets (1 on frame & 2 on spindle).
4. Remove the nuts from the bottom of the strut bolt studs using an 18mm socket.
5. Remove the 3 upper strut nuts on the strut tower using a 15mm wrench/ratchet.
6. Remove the brake caliper using a 3/4in ratchet with a cheater bar. Hang the caliper using a bent coat hanger or strap from a hole in the frame. Remove the Brake Rotor.
7. Disconnect the rubber vacuum line from the top of the hub actuator. It just pulls off. Remove the Anti-lock brake sensor from the front of the hub using an allen wrench.
8. Loosen the Tie Rod Ball Joint nut using a 3/4in socket. Leave it connected for now. Remove the Upper Ball Joint nut with a 21mm socket or wrench. Hit the SPINDLE a couple of times before you completely remove the nut and it will pop loose.
9. Slide your jack under the LCA to support it.
10. Pry off the silver dust cap on the outside of the hub. Gently tap a screw driver behind it and wiggle it off.
11. Remove the small nut from the spindle end using a socket.
12. Finish taking the Tie Rod Spindle nut off and hit the bottom of the spindle so that it pops up from the joint. Pull the tie rod up and out of the joint.
13. If you have a helper, this is a good time for them. Gently push down on the LCA, being mindful of the shaft pulling out of the hub. Use your jack handle or pry bar and push up on the Upper Control Arm. Pull the top of the strut out, being careful not to let the bolt tear the rubber boot on the ball joint.
14. You have to wiggle and pull straight up to remove the lower bolts from the LCA. Some kits may not require this, as you only need access to the top of the strut. My Autospring kit required that the strut be rotated 180 degrees due to the way the bolts lined up.
15. Install your spacer and drop the bottom of the strut back into the LCA. Again, being careful of the half-shaft and hub assembly, press down on the LCA and pry up on the UCA. Slide the upper part of the strut back into the upper strut tower.
16. Put the lower strut nuts back on and hand tighten. Have a buddy slowly raise the jack under the LCA as you line up the upper bolts of the strut assembly as they go into the holes at the top of the strut tower. Also, feed the end of the half shaft spindle into the hub. And, watch that the Lower Sway Bar link feeds into the hole in the sway bar as you raise the LCA.
17. Once the 3 upper strut bolts are through the upper strut tower, go ahead and put the nuts on and hand tighten them.
18. Continue raising the LCA and gently feed the end of the half shaft spindle through the hub and re-install the small nut on the out side of the hub.
19. Re-install the nut on the Tie Rod Spindle. Re-install the silver dust cap on the outside of the hub.
20. Continue raising the LCA and re-install the nut on the upper ball joint. You need to pry down on the UCA to get it protrude through the spindle. Tighten to 90 ft. lbs.
21. Tighten the 3 upper strut nuts to 35 ft. lbs. Tighten the 2 lower strut nuts to 55 ft. lbs.
22. Re-install the nut on the Lower Sway Bar Link and tighten to 35 ft. lbs.
23. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the top of the actuator. Reconnect the Anti-lock brake sensor using the allen bolt.
24. Re-install the brake rotor and the brake caliper using the 2 bolts and tighten to 136 ft. lbs.
25. Re-attach the 3 brake line brackets.
26. Double check that everything is tight. Re-install the wheel.
After sweating my butt off in the Alabama heat and humidity for 3 straight days, I finally got everything installed and running correctly. This might look intimidating, but it's really not bad. I can say this since I've dis-assembled the passenger side 3 different times now. If you have air tools, you can do each side in about 30-45 minutes. Just take your time and pay attention to what you're doing.
BIG TIP - When pulling the upper strut out and re-installing it, watch the 3 studs on top. The one closest to the rubber boot on the upper ball joint will try to reach over and tear the boot. You can guess why I know this . Once you get it initially free from the upper strut tower, maybe wrap that front stud with duct tape. Or, tape a small piece of cardboard around that side of the ball joint boot.
Did I read somewhere that you can't replace the upper ball joint on the newer trucks? I'll have to deal with this in the coming months I'm sure.
Last edited by singleshot67; 09-09-2014 at 08:35 AM.
I lowered the lca and installed alignment cams when putting it back together. Got my alignment within a half degree of stock, and the alignment shop fixed the rest the next day.
One side was toed in .27 and the other was toed in .28. Not too bad.
I ended up with exactly 1 1/2" of lift on the driver's side and 1 5/8" on the passenger side. I have about 5/8" of rake on the passenger side and 1/2" on the driver's side.
I wish I had gone with the 2" lift now. I went against my gut and let the Autospring guy talk me into the 1.5" kit.
09-09-2014, 08:07 AM
2014 Leveling Kit Install
. Once you get it initially free from the upper strut tower, maybe wrap that front stud with duct tape. Or, tape a small piece of cardboard around that side of the ball joint boot.
