2011 Hard 1-2 Shift
#82
I have a 2011 F150 with the same problems as being mentioned in this thread. Occasional really rough 1-2 shifts. It usually occurs after going over a speed bump or on slow turns, and generally after start up. I have taken it into multiple Ford dealerships and always get the same answer - we cant replicate the problem and everything should be fine. I am now past the warranty period and I am very frustrated. When it happens it feels like I am getting rear ended - a loud pop and a jolt. It looks like several folks have had this fixed by getting reflash - supposedly that has been done on my truck, but nothing changed. It sounds like replacing the valve body is a possible solution. Are there any other fixes or ways to verify if the valve body is the issue? Thanks
#83
Mine is Exactly the same. Start truck at work, roll slowwwwwly up to the speed bump...I actually brace myself for it, and make sure my coffee lid is closed. I was going to say that it feels like you got rear ended, or that somebody just randomly dropped a cinder block into your box. 100k premium warranty.....doing me no good.
#84
Mighty Ford
I have a 2011 with the 6.2 and does this at low speed, stop and go traffic. Feels like being rear ended, every time it happens I look around because I think I got hit.
#87
So I know this is an old thread, but I just picked up a 2011 STX with 3.7L V6. When I first got it, it had a bad clunk stopping and starting and the occasional hard shift. I did the fix for the clunky driveshaft by adding Teflon grease, and that seemed to fix it, but the hard 1-2 shifts still happen when I'm pulling out of the underground garage at work, usually rounding the corner slowly then beginning an a mild uphill grade. You can hear the revs increasing and then, BAM!, second gear. I get the occasional hard downshift too, I think 3-2, when I'm starting to accelerate from an onramp light when getting on the freeway. I'll start taking off, but as I hit the hill, I give it more gas and BAM!, downshifts hard and then away I go.
So I'm going to see if I can get in and get a reflash, but my buddy just took his in for the same problem, and they swear there is no TCM reflash available for our trucks. His is getting a whole new tranny.
So it seems there are two possible fixes for this so far, reflash if you can get a dealership to do one or new valve body. As it looks like the reflash may not be an option for me, and I really don't want to shell out $1000 for a new valve body, has anyone yet tried like a Sonnax Zip Kit to see if that helps resolve the issue? The zip kit is only like $150, and it claims to fix all the common problems with AT valve bodies.
TIA and sorry to resurrect an old thread.
So I'm going to see if I can get in and get a reflash, but my buddy just took his in for the same problem, and they swear there is no TCM reflash available for our trucks. His is getting a whole new tranny.
So it seems there are two possible fixes for this so far, reflash if you can get a dealership to do one or new valve body. As it looks like the reflash may not be an option for me, and I really don't want to shell out $1000 for a new valve body, has anyone yet tried like a Sonnax Zip Kit to see if that helps resolve the issue? The zip kit is only like $150, and it claims to fix all the common problems with AT valve bodies.
TIA and sorry to resurrect an old thread.
#88
Senior Member
I have a 2011 F150 with the same problems as being mentioned in this thread. Occasional really rough 1-2 shifts. It usually occurs after going over a speed bump or on slow turns, and generally after start up. I have taken it into multiple Ford dealerships and always get the same answer - we cant replicate the problem and everything should be fine. I am now past the warranty period and I am very frustrated. When it happens it feels like I am getting rear ended - a loud pop and a jolt. It looks like several folks have had this fixed by getting reflash - supposedly that has been done on my truck, but nothing changed. It sounds like replacing the valve body is a possible solution. Are there any other fixes or ways to verify if the valve body is the issue? Thanks
#90
Give it a try and let me know how it turns out. Hopefully it will work for you also.