2011 f150 slip yoke problem
#11
Has anyone found a permanent fix to this "slip" "clunk" problem? I have a 2011 FX2 Sport and every time I come to a stop I get a clunk; and every time I take off, I get the slip. I know about the greasing the spline idea, and that some found that this worked while others didn't see any change. I appreciate any advice that I might be able to take to my dealership. Thanks.
#12
mortarman120
I have a 2011 fx2 also that had the same exact slip yoke problem I brought it to the dealer told them the slip yoke was messed up so the greased the slip yoke with some sort of special grease replaced the boot and it felt perfect again. Just tell them the slip yoke need to be greased and boot replaced and you should be golden. I had mine done at about 11000 miles I am at 31500 right now and it has not come back yet
#14
Senior Member
Took my truck in for oil change and tire rotation yesterday. Asked them to look into this problem. They immediately thought it was slip yoke because they've seen this a few times. So when I went to pick it up, they told me I didn't have the problem because I have a one piece driveshaft and the problem is on two piece driveshafts.
I give up on this dealership. All they've ever done is give me the run-around.
I give up on this dealership. All they've ever done is give me the run-around.
#16
Rear Differential/Transmission
Just bought a 2009 Ford F150 6.5ft with 159k miles. It's having what i believe is the same issue, i brought it to a very trusted dealer and they said they couldn't figure out what's wrong with it but they essentially said they think it's rear differential or transmission but they couldn't really tell until the problem got worse. Is there a way I can check to be sure that the problem is the slip/yoke? Also, do y'all think the slip yoke is a job that someone with basic mechanic skills can handle?
#17
Just bought a 2009 Ford F150 6.5ft with 159k miles. It's having what i believe is the same issue, i brought it to a very trusted dealer and they said they couldn't figure out what's wrong with it but they essentially said they think it's rear differential or transmission but they couldn't really tell until the problem got worse. Is there a way I can check to be sure that the problem is the slip/yoke? Also, do y'all think the slip yoke is a job that someone with basic mechanic skills can handle?
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Spense150 (11-18-2016)
#18
I have a 2010 w/ 5.4.
I had the same problem. Took it to the dealer. They fixed it. But, like the earlier poster said, it came back.
I am going to take it back to the Dealer... However, I am not that concerned about it.
I had the same problem. Took it to the dealer. They fixed it. But, like the earlier poster said, it came back.
I am going to take it back to the Dealer... However, I am not that concerned about it.
#19
Senior Member
I have more of a click than a bump in my 2013 5.0. A few weeks ago I lubed the slip yoke with Motorcraft PTFE lube. It helped a bit but I'm still getting a click. I've put some thought into it recently and might try this:
http://www.micromark.com/neolube-2-fl-oz,8383.html
We use neolube extensively in the nuclear industry as a dry lubricant and to prevent galling on reactor components. Its basically a suspension of graphite particles in isopropyl alcohol. Once applied and dried, it leaves a thin layer of graphite that strongly adheres to the surface, and this stuff is TOUGH. We coat threads on fastners and preload them as high as 120 ksi and this stuff is still in tact when we break the joints for inspection, years later.
The way I see it, the bump in the slip yoke is due to binding when torque is applied to the joint. Once the truck starts to move and lurches with the suspension movement, the joint breaks free and slips resulting in the bump that you feel/hear. I imagine the binding is due to the pretty open clearances on the splines I saw when I greased it last. It just tends to push any lubricant out of the joint. Plus, its not a dynamic joint, so any lubrication doesn't want to create a film. When I took my slip yoke apart it was practically dry with a bit of tranny fluid on it that was leaking through the seal.
I might give the neolube a shot and report back. It seems to be far superior for the conditions of our slip yokes than just lubing the joint. Plus, its only carbon, so I'm not worried about any incompatibilities with the existing lube or tranny fluid. I was curious if anyone tried anything similar?
http://www.micromark.com/neolube-2-fl-oz,8383.html
We use neolube extensively in the nuclear industry as a dry lubricant and to prevent galling on reactor components. Its basically a suspension of graphite particles in isopropyl alcohol. Once applied and dried, it leaves a thin layer of graphite that strongly adheres to the surface, and this stuff is TOUGH. We coat threads on fastners and preload them as high as 120 ksi and this stuff is still in tact when we break the joints for inspection, years later.
The way I see it, the bump in the slip yoke is due to binding when torque is applied to the joint. Once the truck starts to move and lurches with the suspension movement, the joint breaks free and slips resulting in the bump that you feel/hear. I imagine the binding is due to the pretty open clearances on the splines I saw when I greased it last. It just tends to push any lubricant out of the joint. Plus, its not a dynamic joint, so any lubrication doesn't want to create a film. When I took my slip yoke apart it was practically dry with a bit of tranny fluid on it that was leaking through the seal.
I might give the neolube a shot and report back. It seems to be far superior for the conditions of our slip yokes than just lubing the joint. Plus, its only carbon, so I'm not worried about any incompatibilities with the existing lube or tranny fluid. I was curious if anyone tried anything similar?
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cmbezln (11-21-2016)
#20
Senior Member
Check the carrier bearing rubber. 09-11 trucks had a TSB out for driveshaft replacement because the rubber vulcanization separates from the actual shaft. Know many guys that had their shafts come apart due to this. If that checks out good all you need is hand tools to drop the shaft, side cutters to remove the front clip on the bellows. Pull shaft apart clean and re grease with ford's xg 8 ptfe grease. Do the spline at the trans output shaft too.
Use a thick zip tie to go in place of the bellows clip.
Use a thick zip tie to go in place of the bellows clip.
Last edited by winchested; 11-19-2016 at 03:59 PM.