2011+ 55-60mph 5.0 Shuddering and EcoBoost Engine Miss/Loss of Power - Possible Fixes
05-17-2016, 07:09 PM
#3221
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I have an issue that my 2011 runs great except when I accelerate in passing gear. Then it missed continuously. When I decelerate and resume speed, the missing goes away. i can accelerate up to 80 without passing gear and no misses. Is this the shuddering you are talking about or is this something else.
Thanks
Thanks
05-18-2016, 10:29 AM
#3222
Bullsprig...it sounds like the symptoms. I also have a 2011 EcoBoost. Although there are some variants as to when the symptoms appear, IMHO, your symptom appears to happen when your engine goes into maximum boost, and thereby the maximum air flow through your CAC and also through the PCV valve, both of which cause condensate to blow into your intake valves which can cause the problem from 3 different sources. 1. CAC condensate 2. PCV condensate and 3. Spark Plug malfunction (water shorting the spark or damaged). Accumulated "gunk" (oil, gas, and water) are blown out into the intake when you accelerate hard, and causes this studdering effect. I have done all three to mine, and I have pretty much eliminated the problem. In my particular case, though, I gather very little water in the CAC, but have captured a lot of "gunk" in the catch can. New spark plugs are just a precautionary thing just in case one is damaged...I have seen some that were cracked and caused poor performance. The thing is a beast, though...easily pulling strong 80 in 3rd with 3 more "gears" to go...It has so much more pull left, I shutter to think where the top end is.
Good luck
Good luck
06-01-2016, 03:46 PM
#3224
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Bullsprig...it sounds like the symptoms. I also have a 2011 EcoBoost. Although there are some variants as to when the symptoms appear, IMHO, your symptom appears to happen when your engine goes into maximum boost, and thereby the maximum air flow through your CAC and also through the PCV valve, both of which cause condensate to blow into your intake valves which can cause the problem from 3 different sources. 1. CAC condensate 2. PCV condensate and 3. Spark Plug malfunction (water shorting the spark or damaged). Accumulated "gunk" (oil, gas, and water) are blown out into the intake when you accelerate hard, and causes this studdering effect. I have done all three to mine, and I have pretty much eliminated the problem. In my particular case, though, I gather very little water in the CAC, but have captured a lot of "gunk" in the catch can. New spark plugs are just a precautionary thing just in case one is damaged...I have seen some that were cracked and caused poor performance. The thing is a beast, though...easily pulling strong 80 in 3rd with 3 more "gears" to go...It has so much more pull left, I shutter to think where the top end is.
Good luck
Good luck
Hope I didn't waste money.
Now if my transmission didn't slam between 1/2 I would love the truck. Yes it has had the program flashed to no avail.
06-02-2016, 04:24 AM
#3226
Senior Member
It seems to be a fairly common thing in turboed vehicles. I saw a few videos on Youtube where they had to drain the IC on a regular basis.
06-03-2016, 10:16 AM
#3227
Um, actually I think you are looking at this wrong. PCV works off vacuum, which is before the turbos, the IC is after the turbos and before the intake manifold. Any oil in the blowby will be sucked up by the PCV prior to entering the turbos, then compressed and blown into the Intercooler. Once it is past the turbos it is no longer in a vacuum, but under pressure, which would make PCV ineffective.
This now makes me wonder, if it is indeed oil in the blowby gasses being drawn in by PCV, wouldn't the turbos get oil on them? Has anyone looked?
I think I will hook up a scangauge and see if there is a vacuum setting in addition to the boost pressure. Almost positive there is little to no vacuum on the intake side past the turbos except at idle. From prior readings when I first tuned it, there was always positive pressure while cruising, just under 1 PSI, which jumped to 13 PSI when I hammered on it.
This now makes me wonder, if it is indeed oil in the blowby gasses being drawn in by PCV, wouldn't the turbos get oil on them? Has anyone looked?
I think I will hook up a scangauge and see if there is a vacuum setting in addition to the boost pressure. Almost positive there is little to no vacuum on the intake side past the turbos except at idle. From prior readings when I first tuned it, there was always positive pressure while cruising, just under 1 PSI, which jumped to 13 PSI when I hammered on it.
06-13-2016, 02:58 PM
#3228
Junior Member
Ok, so I really just started getting the shudder this summer. I had noticed it a few times before but couldn't recreate it. I have noticed the issue while passing vehicles, and honestly, it's not fun to feel it while in the wrong lane on a two lane road. I live in Arkansas and it is humid. Contacted my local dealer and they will not even discuss the issue, say I have to bring it in for diagnostics at $129. Got a quote from a home town dealer for $220+tax. Really, should we have to pay for something that is a known problem?!?! I understand that I am out of warranty but this is a known FORD problem.
06-14-2016, 11:53 AM
#3229
Catch Can ?
I have tried to read through the post over the last year, I saw where people were talking about a catch can but no one saying that it fixed their misfires issues or if they did I missed it. Has anyone installed a catch can and it fixed the shudder, misfire issue? I have done plugs, flash, coils , weep hole, etc. I still have issues.
06-17-2016, 07:34 PM
#3230
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Add me to the list. 2014 F150 Ecoboost 4x4 34,000 miles. Been flawless other than poor fuel milage while towing until last night. Noticed a little shutter going up hills (not full throttle and not towing) in Northern Arizona, 50 degrees, no moisture issues. Went to pass a semi and the wrench light came on and lost ALL throttle control, had to hit the ditch to avoid head on collision. Had it happened almost anywhere else I would have hit the trees. Idled fine sitting in the ditch but zero throttle, no check engine light. Shut it off and restarted, the wrench went away and it ran but still shuttered sometimes when going up hills.
Auto parts store said no codes popped. Dealer said it might be a fuse for the fuel pump, he gave me a new fuse but the old one was not blown. Said there is a problem with the fuse box under the hood and sometimes they need to reroute the wiring under it to put a heavier duty fuse holder in? Made no sense to me. Said they would have to hook it up to scanner but can't look at it until next week, I go on a big trip on Monday so I am SOL... I could have been killed so now I have to rent a car while my beautiful truck sits in the garage, no warranty since its a theft recovery. I am going to try new spark plugs first but won't be taking my truck on vacation and risking killing my kids....
Is there anyway to tell if you have a bad coil pack without going to the dealer and have no codes showing?
Auto parts store said no codes popped. Dealer said it might be a fuse for the fuel pump, he gave me a new fuse but the old one was not blown. Said there is a problem with the fuse box under the hood and sometimes they need to reroute the wiring under it to put a heavier duty fuse holder in? Made no sense to me. Said they would have to hook it up to scanner but can't look at it until next week, I go on a big trip on Monday so I am SOL... I could have been killed so now I have to rent a car while my beautiful truck sits in the garage, no warranty since its a theft recovery. I am going to try new spark plugs first but won't be taking my truck on vacation and risking killing my kids....
Is there anyway to tell if you have a bad coil pack without going to the dealer and have no codes showing?