acdii

Welcome to the wonderful world of Ford Customer Service!!! How many key cycles did you have between the code being set, and getting to the dealer? I think after 3 or 4 key cycles(engine starts) the codes will get cleared automagically. So even if you didn't clear the code, chances are there would not have been a code when you got there.

Ford Customer Service is the worst! I can guarantee it. No codes, sorry can't help you even though you can duplicate the issue one hundred times in a row! Code P0304 is a misfire on cylinder #4, most likely caused by the ingestion of moisture from the intercooler. I had it happen once, code P0305, which I cleared myself, but took a picture of the code first with my phone as proof. It didn't do me any good as it is a 2014 and there are no TSB for them with a misfire under hard acceleration as that was supposedly "fixed" by the time my truck was built.

Here is what leads up to the misfire, damp air, highway cruising at a steady RPM, drop in dew point, and driving through rain(though this last part is not always the case). Over time without a good blowing out, the moisture accumulates in the bottom of the IC, and when you go to pass, or put a heavy load where the boost kicks into high, this moisture gets picked up and forced into the first cylinder that happens to have the intake open, which then puts the plug out for a few strokes, which then floods the cylinder with fuel, which is then pushed out the exhaust, throwing the O2 sensors into a very rich state, which causes the PCM to run the fuel very lean causing the loss of power. Eventually the O2 sensors stabilize, the cylinder that misfired sets the p030x code, and everything is back to normal.

Many people immediately pull their foot off the gas when this happens, and in some cases this will stall the engine. When it does happen, just keep the foot down, it will clear itself up within a minute.

I had started passing a semi doing 55, as soon as it downshifted, it went into labor, but I knew exactly what happened and kept it floored, and I eventually did pass the semi and by the time I got around it and back in my lane the engine had returned to normal.

So when this does happen again, and it will, even with the TSB applied, when all the planets and stars are aligned just right, if you can safely pass, keep going, if not, just reduce the pedal pressure, manually downshift it to keep it in a lower gear and keep the RPM's up so that you can maintain speed behind whatever you were going to pass and it will clear up, once it clears, and you can do so, pass, it will act as if it never happened.

As far as Ford CSR, they are worthless. I had a 2013 Fusion Hybrid which clearly had an issue with poor MPG, but since it had no codes, and their $40K laptop told them it was getting proper MPG, they told me to stick it, and closed the case. Here's the problem though, the dash told me 38-40 MPG, the pump told me otherwise. Calculated out, the car did 34 at best, so the computer in the car was off by up to 6 MPG or more, but that was irrelevant to Ford.

My dealer stood by me for as long as they could and eventually made me an offer to trade it out for a Flex they had sitting around, which I jumped on and got rid of that Blue Devil. However, I had ordered a replacement prior to buying the Flex, which they kept on order thinking I wouldn't want it, and changed the color of it. I liked the new Fusion too much so took another chance, and was not disappointed. It got exceptional MPG (Stick it Ford CSR, I was Right, you were all Wrong!).

However, my job changed, and while the hybrid would save me money in gas, my daily drive was an hour and a half, about 40 minutes longer, and by the time I got there, I could hardly walk, the car was just not comfortable for me to drive any length of time due to arthritis and sciatica. I had already traded out my MKT(which replaced the flex after a 7 car pile up totaled it out) for a Focus for my wife thinking the Fusion would be my daily driver before knowing how much pain it would cause me.

Now here is why I bring this up. Over time I noticed some strange braking behavior with the Fusion. There were times that it felt as if the regen braking was not working, and when making a turn, the car would surge. This all happened after an update was applied to the cars computers. I reproduced the issue for the turning to the SM, and the tech who worked on it, the both agreed that wasn't normal, but since there were no codes, Ford service would not let them do anything with the car. OK here we go again!!!! You know that saying, Been there, Done that? Well that was a red flag, and with the amount of driving I am doing, I was not going to risk it, so off it went, replaced with my current F150 which has been running perfectly except for that one instance, which I sort of expected when all the right conditions presented themselves. It has not happened since, even under the same conditions, maybe because I run a tune now. I did have the battery replaced last week though, but that was from the truck sitting for a year on the dealer lot, which probably killed a cell.

I love my Fords, the Fusion was a good car, the Focus has been trouble free and my wife enjoys it, and the F150 is the best in the Pickup world, but Ford the Company, SUCKS. Hoping I never ever have to deal with those retards ever again.

Big*Red

I added a catch can to my 2011 F150 Ecoboost after experiencing some shuddering while climbing up into the Coast Range after around 30,000 miles on it. I have attached a picture of the gunk that it has kept out of the injection ports in about a tank of gas. I also drilled the CAC with a 1/16" hole. I found only a small amount of gunk coming out of it after adding the catch can...

Best of luck ...

fau8823

Thanks, big red. IF I'm still a ford owner when the warranty expires (at this point it's a BIG if), I'm planning on at least installing the catch can. I don't want to void my warranty.

It's extremely frustrating/disappointing coming from 2 prior toyotas where I owner them over the last 15 years and never had to do anything except change the oil to either of them (literally, not even a light burned out) and the resale value was amazing. I like the Ford much more, but it's going to be hard for me to continue to justify owning one if Ford doesn't start doing the right thing.

Pfeffer

Which catch can kit did you purchase?

Pfeffer

i am so frustrated with the damn dealer service dept. i tried to talk to them about the issues i have read about on this page (which, for the record, have always been accurate) and they just blow me off. they are claiming the only thing wrong is fouled plugs. at 51,000 miles. They can't answer why they're bad at only 50k miles. "they're old" is the best they can do. They do not seem to understand there is a root cause for the plugs fouling at half of their suggested life. Ford won't replace them under the TSB for changing part number and gap, so i'm having to pay for it. The service manager is, however, giving me the PCM updates and an induction cleaning service free of charge.

At this point I am convinced my stuttering/misfire issues are a combination of the PCV vapors being condensed in the CAC then eventually dumping into the motor under hard acceleration, thus fouling the plugs. The dealer is somewhat unwilling to discuss this potential issue (but is providing the cleaning). The tech working on my truck just wants to be a sarcastic dick and blame the issues on my airraid intake. sure.

anyway, i'm going to get my truck back clean, with new plugs...i'm considering adding the catch can to prevent further issues. thoughts?

Big*Red

I think at this point, if I were to do it all over again, I would have gone for the 6.2 liter. The 3.5 has great potential, but Ford released it without resolving all of it's issues, and we should not even be having this discussion. I have found that using the tow/haul button for climbing grades helps a lot. The catch can is a good idea in any case to stop the coking buildup on the intakes of cylinders 2&3. In the meantime, being retired, this truck is just going to have to do.

Big*Red

This is what I installed on mine...it catches about 85% so I installed a plain can in series with it to catch most of the rest of the spray...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-12-13-1...9SjizG&vxp=mtr

There are better ones, but they cost a lot...
The white stuff are actually "oil curds" that form a very ugly goo and pour out like curdled milk.

I finally replaced the small oil/water seperator with a $16 catch can...basically just a hollow can, but good enough to catch any velocity spray that the former was catching.

SilentJ

I'm in the same boat as you. I just had it in for the shutter/complete loss of power. They added a shield and PCM upgrade. I asked how that would help and was told its the fix and it will run perfect afterwards. I left the dealer and got into wide open throttle and the damn thing fell on its face again. I'm beyond frustrated right now. I'm under warranty until 100k, but I'm not trying to deal with this over and over.

acdii

Get a scan tool, and record the codes when it happens. A picture from a phone is all you need. Take it in and present the codes, which will usually be a P030x, the x being the cylinder that misfired.

What your describing is that they applied the TSB without cleaning out the Intercooler. Putting the parts on will only resolve the issue once the IC is clean, it wont prevent it from happening if there is still gunk in it.

I now have 27500+ on my 2014 and have only had it happen one time before the 10K mark, since then I have run a 5* tune on it and have not had a repeat. This spring though I do plan to take the IC off and inspect it internally for oil and water. If I do see any, then I will be installing a catch can.

I also need to find out why my horn sounds like a hairlipped elephant when I lock the doors. moomph moomph

SilentJ

That's a good idea. I have a scan tool already, so it will be easy.

I was very surprised that they didn't replace the IC. If it failed, it should be replaced. My IC has a code of model AC on it. I think AE is the newest revision.