HunterSmitty

I really don't worry about it in the slightest. The only time I might feel the shudder is if I'm close to a shift point and go up a little hill. To me, if doesn't feel any different than other vehicles I've been driven, including my girlfriends 2012 Civic. There is a point where the computer is trying to decide whether or not to lock the torque converter, or force a downshift.

Daveleeander

I'm with you HS, I don't worry about it any more. I had the CAC replaced and that solved the dying in the rain problem. I get good milage (18 - 22) depending on how often I stomp the skinny down and how fast I'm driving. There are a lot of variables on that MPG thingy. Old folk get the best, young folk get the worst......as a rule.

D

News in

Sounds good to me. I'm a little gunshy after my last purchase. I bought the 08 gmc certified used with 52k miles on it. One owner vehicle. Unfortunately, those motors (5.3 with active fuel managent), a lot of them have issues with oil burning and/or bad lifters. I believe mine had a faulty lifter, spark knocked consistently under low rpm load and lifters ticked like crazy on a cold start. Dealer warmed it up before I got there, so I didn't get to hear it on a cold start. Sneaky bastards. I paid cash, kept it less than 6 months, and had a hell of a time with several service depts in the meantime. It now resides at the ford dealership where I bought the f150. I sure don't want to go through a similar experience again.

The accord, if a v6 (not sure about the 4), will have cylinder deactivation also. I wonder if that might be what your feeling on the accord. Transition from all to half cylinders and vice versa.

Sorry to get so off topic.

uh60mip

I've run into a similar problem. I've got an 11 SCREW FX4 with the 5.0, 3.73, with just over 25K miles. I had the hesitation under the following conditions: 1400-1800 RPM, about 54-60MPH. The stumble/hesitation occurred with light pedal pressure on a fairly regular basis. It had been going on for about 2-3 months. My driving during this time has been in the Tacoma, WA area, with relatively level terrain. I have a cab-high canopy, FWIW.

It just cost me another $250 for the dealer to "resolve" the problem, with them saying it isn't covered under warranty. Their claim is that I had fuel contamination. I had used only Shell or AAFES fuel (I work at Ft. Lewis), who both denied any problem with their fuel (no one else had fuel issues, so I tend to believe that). Anyway, the dealer initially said it was my K&N air filter (proven to be wrong, because the problem still existed even after the filter was changed). Dealer then swapped all the plugs out, saying I had fuel or additive contamination. The only things I've added to the fuel was octane booster on a cross-country trip five months ago. They still can't explain why it only happens during the ranges I mentioned, rather than throughout the entire power range, as should happen if either fuel contamination or plug fouling exists. Mileage was relatively consistent, about 16 in town and 19ish on the highway.

It also has an interesting small jerk when downshifting from 4th to 3rd, with little pedal pressure involved. Doesn't happen all the time, just on level terrain. No 4WD involved in either situation.

Has anyone else gotten different excuses from their dealers? Perhaps found the real problem? The dealer here claims no TSBs or info on problems, in spite of being advised of the more than 100 writeups on this and other forums.

I've been a Ford fan for many years, but this issue is really pissing me off, and I'm almost ready to move to the new Ram 1500 that gets 23-25MPG (probably about 20 for the 4WD version).

Any insight is appreciated.

News in

Is it still doing it after the dealers "resolution". It does sound like either a misfire or torque converter shudder (I have not personally experienced it, just going off previous experience with those issues, which both seemed to show up at low rpm in overdrive). Why'd you use octane booster? And did it seem to help the issue?

wrigs

Same issue with my 5.0. No resolution so far. Been to dealer a lot with tech ride along and computer hooked up. Got tired of wasting my time. The frequency and intensity varies haven't been able to pinpoint anything in particular when it occurs. Seems to be random with no effect from weather gas octane etc. Always as you described in that rpm range though.

Riccochet

LOL...Ford has tried everything under the sun to pin the issues on ME. Giving me letters explaining that my driving style (very conservative for best MPG's) was causing the TCM to learn poor shift strategies. Me using 87 octane fuel. Me towing a 4000# boat (apparently, according to Ford, I picked the wrong vehicle for towing a boat).

Never mind that they crippled the ECU on our trucks. I've already posted a vid of it, but here's an experiment any one of you can do. Go out to your truck, open hood, remove plastic engine cover and unplug 1, or 2, or 3 coil wires. Now, start your truck. Yeah, it's going to run like tihs, because, well, it running on less cylinders. NOW, go take it for a drive. When you get back tell me, did your truck throw any codes? It should have. The CEL should have been lit up like a christmas tree for misfire and coil continuity. Alas, mine throws not one code. Ford explained this to me as a "feature" so as to not alarm owners of issues. BWAHAHAHA.....I've since turned said video over to my lawyer and the NTHSA.

Tyssa'sRide

I'm amazed that they try to pin it on a customer. With all of the TSB's for these issues they can't deny that there is a problem. An ecoboost shouldn't tow a 4000lbs load??? I bet that wasn't the story when they sold it to you. And I would guess that if someone else took the same featured truck in and talked about how great it tows 6000lbs or more they would be right there agreeing !!! I have found it very odd that these trucks aren't throwing codes. Your test and their response to it definitely says (to me anyways) they are hiding things. I hope things work out for you.

News in

Unplug the coil wires and drive it. Then shut it off, start it and drive it again. Still no codes come up?

I unplugged MAF sensor on 08 GMC and it would not throw a code until the next "drive cycle", had to turn truck off and restart.

But still, you'd think with that bad of a misfire it would immediately throw a code. Just curious if it would throw a code on the next drive cycle.

Riccochet

I pulled one wire, started it up. No code. Shut it off and pulled a second wire. No code. Said eff it and drove around the block a few times. No codes. Turned it off. Started it back up. No codes. My neighbor with a SnapOn EEMS300 scanner couldn't detect a misfire. Seems a bit odd the ECU wasn't throwing any codes with 2 coil wires unplugged. He's a master Audi tech and was stumped/laughing at the same time.

But, hey, what do I know.