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Old 03-13-2013, 01:48 AM   #2461
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Originally Posted by maplelakeduckslayer View Post
Heres my plugs...what do you all think?



Drivers Side:




Passenger Side:




The two on the drivers side full of carbon were about .041 and .042, rest were all from .038-.040.
Healthy. Except for your gaps which you say you've already tightened down. Did you regap the factory ones or install new ones? If you haven't installed new ones yet, here's a suggestion:

I'm assuming you're running brand-name regular 87-octane like Shell or Esso/Exxon. Chances are there is at least SOME ethanol in it (likely 10%), plus depending where you are there is the question of the fuel quality itself. Even if you're using other gas, this still applies:

Buy NGK LTR7IX-11 (stock#6510) plugs. SEVEN heat range, not six.

Use a proper gapping tool to set them at 0.032" like this:
http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-spark-...p-00993924000P

The short version of your problem: Sounds more and more like the engine management is trying to control elevated cylinder temperatures by dumping fuel and cutting boost.

It isn't really necessary but you can disconnect your battery, wait 10 minutes, turn on ignition, pump brakes, turn off ignition, reconnect battery if you want to REALLY clear your computer (this won't clear the transmission shift strategy though.)
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:44 AM   #2462
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Buy NGK LTR7IX-11 (stock#6510) plugs. SEVEN heat range, not six.
OK VoiceOfReason, so nw you're recommending the LTR7IX-11 plug? Because in your previous posts on spark plugs you say the LTR6IX-11 plugs are the stock heat range and the 7 are colder and unnecessary. Even you can't keep up with your bullsh*t...
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:05 AM   #2463
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I have tried both the 6 (stock heat range) and 7 (one step cooler heat range)
and I feel the truck liked the 7 heat range better especially while running a performance tune with lots of boost. I'm currently running the 6 heat range because I had to take my truck to the dealer a while back and I didn't want them blaming the plugs. Either set of plugs run way better than the OEM plugs.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:03 AM   #2464
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Doesn't get much more frustrating then having it run great for a few days the way its supposed to just to watch it go downhill again.

I want to try to program it to see if it fixes it...but then if I still have issues they are gonna blame that.

Gonna disconnect the battery and see if it runs good for a while and goes downhill again.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:10 AM   #2465
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Doesn't get much more frustrating then having it run great for a few days the way its supposed to just to watch it go downhill again.

I want to try to program it to see if it fixes it...but then if I still have issues they are gonna blame that.

Gonna disconnect the battery and see if it runs good for a while and goes downhill again.
With your CAC replacement did they reset the transmission and start the learning process again.
After about a quarter tank is when I notice the shifting start to adapt.
This may play into how your motor is behaving, not that it helps knowing that. If you notice less issues while using the tow haul feature there may be a relation there.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:17 AM   #2466
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With your CAC replacement did they reset the transmission and start the learning process again.
After about a quarter tank is when I notice the shifting start to adapt.
This may play into how your motor is behaving, not that it helps knowing that. If you notice less issues while using the tow haul feature there may be a relation there.
They did after the CAC but when I did plugs I didn't reset anything...unless the computer can "sense" its being worked on and does it automatically but don't see how that could be possible. So I can see it being a relearning thing after the CAC but after plugs it just seems the computer sensed something after a few days and began decreasing the power. Seriously, accelerating up to like 40 mph you cannot hear the turbos at all, it seems like its not using the turbos at all, all you can hear is the engine reving.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:21 AM   #2467
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Seriously, accelerating up to like 40 mph you cannot hear the turbos at all, it seems like its not using the turbos at all, all you can hear is the engine reving.
I barely ever hear my turbos unless I'm pushing it very hard. In general city driving just keeping up with traffic, torque shows my boost as 2-4 psi generally. I don't think that is enough to hear, because with the radio on I certainly don't. Maybe if I was looking for it.

Have you got access to a boost gauge of some sort? It would be interesting to see what yours looks like. Does it build and hold boost under heavy acceleration?
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:29 AM   #2468
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I barely ever hear my turbos unless I'm pushing it very hard. In general city driving just keeping up with traffic, torque shows my boost as 2-4 psi generally. I don't think that is enough to hear, because with the radio on I certainly don't. Maybe if I was looking for it.

Have you got access to a boost gauge of some sort? It would be interesting to see what yours looks like. Does it build and hold boost under heavy acceleration?
I know what it should sound like accelerating in those conditions...on it seomewhat heavy getting up to 2500-3000 RPM's and there is no boost and there should be. Its a noted difference from yesterday morning to yesterday afternoon, its easy to tell when it changes rapidly like that.

I can monitor boost through Torque App but I believe its been discussed here that where that reading is being taken from is not the proper place to get the reading for an accurate value.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:12 PM   #2469
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Originally Posted by maplelakeduckslayer View Post
I know what it should sound like accelerating in those conditions...on it seomewhat heavy getting up to 2500-3000 RPM's and there is no boost and there should be. Its a noted difference from yesterday morning to yesterday afternoon, its easy to tell when it changes rapidly like that.

I can monitor boost through Torque App but I believe its been discussed here that where that reading is being taken from is not the proper place to get the reading for an accurate value.
Most people with mechanical gauges show the same as the Torque app. So, I'm not sure where that information came from.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:18 PM   #2470
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OK VoiceOfReason, so nw you're recommending the LTR7IX-11 plug? Because in your previous posts on spark plugs you say the LTR6IX-11 plugs are the stock heat range and the 7 are colder and unnecessary. Even you can't keep up with your bullsh*t...
Yeah I had a paragraph to explain that ready but wanted to see who would jump on that first.

Perhaps your ego would care to explain WHY he should try using the colder heat range, even though we've already been over this many moons ago...
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:18 PM
 
 
 
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