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2011+ 55-60mph 5.0 Shuddering and EcoBoost Engine Miss/Loss of Power - Possible Fixes

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Old 03-11-2013, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by maplelakeduckslayer
Heres my plugs...what do you all think?



Drivers Side:




Passenger Side:




The two on the drivers side full of carbon were about .041 and .042, rest were all from .038-.040.
They look about like mine, and I feel that I did not have the shudder. I only changed mine after installing the tuner, as I would get a pop on hard acceleration! Change plugs, gap to .032, problem solved!
Old 03-11-2013, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by maplelakeduckslayer
Heres my plugs...what do you all think?



Drivers Side:




Passenger Side:




The two on the drivers side full of carbon were about .041 and .042, rest were all from .038-.040.
They look better than mine did. Hope changing them out helps you. New properly gaped plugs didn't do a thing for my shudder.
Old 03-11-2013, 04:16 PM
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So forgive me I'm not a wizard when it comes to engines and working on them.

The question I have is if one of those plugs is bad or not firing properly in a cylinder, is there any reason the truck would bleed off boost during acceleration/etc? Right after the new intercooler the constant hissing went away...and was replaced with a ton of power. After a couple days the hissing came back and the power went away. If a plug is not firing correctly the truck wouldn't be able to use all the boost, correct? So it would bleed off what it didn't need?

Now after my plug change(bout 100 miles now) the constant hissing is gone again and the truck feels much more powerful again, and on several WOT runs I have not had a misfire.
Old 03-11-2013, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by maplelakeduckslayer
So forgive me I'm not a wizard when it comes to engines and working on them.

The question I have is if one of those plugs is bad or not firing properly in a cylinder, is there any reason the truck would bleed off boost during acceleration/etc? Right after the new intercooler the constant hissing went away...and was replaced with a ton of power. After a couple days the hissing came back and the power went away. If a plug is not firing correctly the truck wouldn't be able to use all the boost, correct? So it would bleed off what it didn't need?

Now after my plug change(bout 100 miles now) the constant hissing is gone again and the truck feels much more powerful again, and on several WOT runs I have not had a misfire.
That's awesome bud. Glad to hear that!!!
Old 03-12-2013, 12:59 AM
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Glad to hear it's running better, hopefully it continues.

Did you pull the battery cable for >10 minutes as well or just re-gap/change the plugs?
Old 03-12-2013, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by gwpfan
Glad to hear it's running better, hopefully it continues.

Did you pull the battery cable for >10 minutes as well or just re-gap/change the plugs?
Did not disconnect battery, just new plugs gapped to .032.

I'd say it doesn't seem to have changed idle or mileage, but the truck feels much much stronger still. Seemed before I was having to give the truck half throttle to get it to move...and instead of being able to give it just a little gas to let the boost move the truck it would downshift. Now the boost builds and it moves. Its like it wasn't pushing the boost into the engine before.

The one thing I have noticed since the CAC and computer update is an even longer hesitation in throttle response when I come to a stop and have the wheels turned to make a turn. Sometimes its seriously like a 2-3 second delay with the accelerator depressed before it goes. Truck was not like that prior to the updates. I'll live with that though, as long as the misfires are gone. Nothing a programmer can't take care of.
Old 03-12-2013, 06:42 PM
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I spoke too soon on my success. Truck drove around town great all day til this afternoon. Got it to miss on a hill by hitting the plus button on cruise control. From then on gradually felt like it was losing power and the hissing like its blowing off boost is back again, along with the feeling I'm giving it a ton of gas and its going nowhere.

Why for 3-4 days after having the new intercooler installed, and now 3-4 days after installing new plugs, does the truck begin to run crappy again? I didn't disconnect the battery or anything while changing them so there was no relearning or anything going on.

What is the truck sensing that its pulling timing or bleeding off boost?

This morning I was putting it through all sorts of tests and I was very happy and impressed again. And again its a turd.

I just don't get it. Another call to the dealer tomorrow I guess. Really not sure what to do at this point.
Old 03-12-2013, 07:17 PM
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http://youtu.be/LPFwy3-LQPs

About a week and a half ago I recorded this video. Thought I would share it with everyone here. When I got done with this I pulled a second coil wire and drove around the block. Not a single DTC was stored.

I'd love for others to try this as well. This should have resulted in several DTC's being stored. Namely 030X (X = cylinder number) and 0351 for an open coil.

Have fun letting Ford blow smoke up your gluteus maximus about them fixing your issues.
Old 03-12-2013, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Riccochet
http://youtu.be/LPFwy3-LQPs

About a week and a half ago I recorded this video. Thought I would share it with everyone here. When I got done with this I pulled a second coil wire and drove around the block. Not a single DTC was stored.

I'd love for others to try this as well. This should have resulted in several DTC's being stored. Namely 030X (X = cylinder number) and 0351 for an open coil.

Have fun letting Ford blow smoke up your gluteus maximus about them fixing your issues.
Very interesting....is it in the programing?
Old 03-13-2013, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Riccochet
http://youtu.be/LPFwy3-LQPs

About a week and a half ago I recorded this video. Thought I would share it with everyone here. When I got done with this I pulled a second coil wire and drove around the block. Not a single DTC was stored.

I'd love for others to try this as well. This should have resulted in several DTC's being stored. Namely 030X (X = cylinder number) and 0351 for an open coil.

Have fun letting Ford blow smoke up your gluteus maximus about them fixing your issues.
It will have freeze frame data stored. MIL (the check engine light) does not have to be illuminated for the computer to have diagnostic information triggered.

Drive it/load it and you will definately get a check engine light.


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