2010 Trailer Brake Install
04-18-2011, 10:37 PM
#131
Papa T
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Alabama
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Great Post!
I installed my Ford in dash brake controller today. Your pictures and instructions were EXCELLENT. I would not have tackled the project without your help. THANK YOU !!!!
My cost for the controller was $175 from a local dealer. He had to order it and it took five days to get it here.
My local dealer wanted $78.50 to Flash my truck to recognize the controller. I called a small dealer in an adjacent town and they will do it for $40. I am going there tommorrow.
My cost for the controller was $175 from a local dealer. He had to order it and it took five days to get it here.
My local dealer wanted $78.50 to Flash my truck to recognize the controller. I called a small dealer in an adjacent town and they will do it for $40. I am going there tommorrow.
04-19-2011, 11:01 PM
#132
The AL3Z-2C006-AB is not for the 2010, it's for the 2009 and has the built in display. This is why it's cost is so much greater.
Well I'm getting quite a bit done this week to the truck.
I'm having the Ford TBC installed, they gave me a much better price of $220 installed and computer updated for it. I'm also having the Ford OEM Tow mirrors installed, the black with power, signal, and heat, for $400 installed, and having all 4 Ford OEM Molded Mud Guards installed for $120.
I'm having them install these mainly for warranty sake. Ford will not warranty the TBC if users install it and I felt if they are like this on the TBC, I'm not taking a chance with the Mirrors. Besides, I didn't really want to tackle the mirrors since I'm working outside in the weather. Since I was having this done anyhow, and short on time, against my better judgement, am just letting them put the mud guards on so that it's done and one less job I have to worry about. With working a lot of overtime, and home improvement jobs piling up, it's so hard to find time to do anything.
The truck will finally be ready to pull the trailer with the mud guards to protect the trailer a bit from thrown rocks. Can't wait, now all I have to do is buy a Torque wrench and tear my Reese Strait-Line Sway/weight distribution hitch apart and fit it to the F150. Previously was setup to fit my 2008 Sport Trac. FUN, FUN, FUN!
Well I'm getting quite a bit done this week to the truck.
I'm having the Ford TBC installed, they gave me a much better price of $220 installed and computer updated for it. I'm also having the Ford OEM Tow mirrors installed, the black with power, signal, and heat, for $400 installed, and having all 4 Ford OEM Molded Mud Guards installed for $120.
I'm having them install these mainly for warranty sake. Ford will not warranty the TBC if users install it and I felt if they are like this on the TBC, I'm not taking a chance with the Mirrors. Besides, I didn't really want to tackle the mirrors since I'm working outside in the weather. Since I was having this done anyhow, and short on time, against my better judgement, am just letting them put the mud guards on so that it's done and one less job I have to worry about. With working a lot of overtime, and home improvement jobs piling up, it's so hard to find time to do anything.
The truck will finally be ready to pull the trailer with the mud guards to protect the trailer a bit from thrown rocks. Can't wait, now all I have to do is buy a Torque wrench and tear my Reese Strait-Line Sway/weight distribution hitch apart and fit it to the F150. Previously was setup to fit my 2008 Sport Trac. FUN, FUN, FUN!
04-25-2011, 12:25 PM
#133
Member
Great post, thanks! I had my dash apart and found the wire harness in 5 minutes. Removing the 2 screws in the dash bezel does help. Luckily I have a friend who is a tech at the Ford dealer where I bought my truck and he will enable the controller for me for free (well it may cost me a 12 pack
)!
)!Hello Everyone,
So I had read every trailer brake install post on here for the last six months. And mine didn't go so well on so many levels. Since it appears some of the 2010 models are different, here's a little type up on my adventures.
All this information is somewhere in this forum. So it's not original and thanks to all who made prior contributions.
By now, most of us should know the 2010 brake model is different from the 2009. The part # for the 10 is AL3Z-19H332-AA for which I paid close to $200 with shipping. The ordered part contains everything you need including the two fuses. You will not need the plastic bag most of us found in the truck with the plug and wires and fuses. The trailer brake controller is installed in place of the driver side junk holder next to the climate controls.
So, in starting, prying off the console piece between the radio and dash bezel. In my truck, it's the silver piece. This is easy once you understand. There are no screws in this piece, just four clips that you gently pull out. If you have 4 wheel drive, there is a harness you must detach. Just push the retainer down and it comes off easy. Watching this video made it a lot easier to see how it comes out.http://www.etrailer.com/tv-brake-con...ford-f150.aspx
Or, to make it easier (but only a little), you can remove the dash bezel with two 7mm screws. Just be careful not to scratch anything and pry gently. Putting it back in, the top of the bezel slides in a slot on the bottom of the dash. Make sure it goes back in there.
Ok, now that you have the trim piece off, it'll look something like this. The plug at the bottom of the opening is my 4 wheel drive harness. The two copper looking pieces near the bottom is where I removed two 7mm screws holding in the junk box. Remove those the box comes right out. Save the screws, you'll need those for the controller.
Several people have found the trailer brake harness plugged into the back of the junk box. And it certainly still looks like it could be.
However, this was not my case. I looked all around and couldn't find this dang thing. I found mine by luck under the dash by the dealers plug in. It's taped against a main wire harness. In the picture, you see the blue plug near the bottom, and directly above that, a gray plug. CAREFULLY, cut the tape holding the plug and pull it back through. Since I have big hands, I also had to pop off a pop in doodad to give me enough slack.
Once fished through, here's what you have.
There is an adapter on the plug that must come off to fit the controller.
You can now plug your controller in and reinstall using the two 7mm screws you removed from the junk box.
Reinstall your trim piece (or pieces). And you now look like you did in the first picture.
The next part is installing the fuses. This is easy. If you look at the paperwork you have in the plastic bag with pigtail and two fuses, on page 4, you will see where to install the fuses. The fuse box is in the very front and center of your engine compartment. The big fuse goes in slot 9, the little fuse in slot 21.
You are now done and need to visit a dealership to enable the trailer brake. Prices range from free to full one hour service. It literally takes five minutes to do. Up to you on how much you wish to pay. I was lucky to get mine free of charge.
Once enabled, you will find it in the instrument cluster options along with the fuel mileage and odometer.
I hope this helps ya'll.
Timothy
So I had read every trailer brake install post on here for the last six months. And mine didn't go so well on so many levels. Since it appears some of the 2010 models are different, here's a little type up on my adventures.
All this information is somewhere in this forum. So it's not original and thanks to all who made prior contributions.
By now, most of us should know the 2010 brake model is different from the 2009. The part # for the 10 is AL3Z-19H332-AA for which I paid close to $200 with shipping. The ordered part contains everything you need including the two fuses. You will not need the plastic bag most of us found in the truck with the plug and wires and fuses. The trailer brake controller is installed in place of the driver side junk holder next to the climate controls.
So, in starting, prying off the console piece between the radio and dash bezel. In my truck, it's the silver piece. This is easy once you understand. There are no screws in this piece, just four clips that you gently pull out. If you have 4 wheel drive, there is a harness you must detach. Just push the retainer down and it comes off easy. Watching this video made it a lot easier to see how it comes out.http://www.etrailer.com/tv-brake-con...ford-f150.aspx
Or, to make it easier (but only a little), you can remove the dash bezel with two 7mm screws. Just be careful not to scratch anything and pry gently. Putting it back in, the top of the bezel slides in a slot on the bottom of the dash. Make sure it goes back in there.
Ok, now that you have the trim piece off, it'll look something like this. The plug at the bottom of the opening is my 4 wheel drive harness. The two copper looking pieces near the bottom is where I removed two 7mm screws holding in the junk box. Remove those the box comes right out. Save the screws, you'll need those for the controller.
Several people have found the trailer brake harness plugged into the back of the junk box. And it certainly still looks like it could be.
However, this was not my case. I looked all around and couldn't find this dang thing. I found mine by luck under the dash by the dealers plug in. It's taped against a main wire harness. In the picture, you see the blue plug near the bottom, and directly above that, a gray plug. CAREFULLY, cut the tape holding the plug and pull it back through. Since I have big hands, I also had to pop off a pop in doodad to give me enough slack.
Once fished through, here's what you have.
There is an adapter on the plug that must come off to fit the controller.
You can now plug your controller in and reinstall using the two 7mm screws you removed from the junk box.
Reinstall your trim piece (or pieces). And you now look like you did in the first picture.
The next part is installing the fuses. This is easy. If you look at the paperwork you have in the plastic bag with pigtail and two fuses, on page 4, you will see where to install the fuses. The fuse box is in the very front and center of your engine compartment. The big fuse goes in slot 9, the little fuse in slot 21.
You are now done and need to visit a dealership to enable the trailer brake. Prices range from free to full one hour service. It literally takes five minutes to do. Up to you on how much you wish to pay. I was lucky to get mine free of charge.
Once enabled, you will find it in the instrument cluster options along with the fuel mileage and odometer.
I hope this helps ya'll.
Timothy
05-26-2011, 12:11 PM
#137
Senior Member
Originally Posted by daystrom
Just did the same install. Despite my truck costing nearly $47,000 MSRP, they wouldn't budge on the programming cost. $45. Having it done June 1st.
06-06-2011, 04:16 PM
#139
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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maybe i'll get some help in this thread, i made a new thread but i didnt get any help there
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2010-b...uestion-97911/
I'm looking to order the brake controller module, and I've read through the various threads on here and I'm confused as to which part number I need. A lot of people are saying to get AL3Z-19H322-AA, but using fordparts.com (and a few other places) I'm being given BL3Z-2C006-AA. I've also seen some other variations of the first four characters. My truck is a 2010 built 10/09. I already have the harness and fuses that came in the plastic bag with the truck so I think I just need the module itself, if that helps (or if its any cheaper). Any help would be appreciated.
thanks
i need to order this soon as i'm buying a camper, any help would be appreciated.
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2010-b...uestion-97911/
I'm looking to order the brake controller module, and I've read through the various threads on here and I'm confused as to which part number I need. A lot of people are saying to get AL3Z-19H322-AA, but using fordparts.com (and a few other places) I'm being given BL3Z-2C006-AA. I've also seen some other variations of the first four characters. My truck is a 2010 built 10/09. I already have the harness and fuses that came in the plastic bag with the truck so I think I just need the module itself, if that helps (or if its any cheaper). Any help would be appreciated.
thanks
i need to order this soon as i'm buying a camper, any help would be appreciated.
