So I had read every trailer brake install post on here for the last six months. And mine didn't go so well on so many levels. Since it appears some of the 2010 models are different, here's a little type up on my adventures.
All this information is somewhere in this forum. So it's not original and thanks to all who made prior contributions.
By now, most of us should know the 2010 brake model is different from the 2009. The part # for the 10 is AL3Z-19H332-AA for which I paid close to $200 with shipping. The ordered part contains everything you need including the two fuses. You will not need the plastic bag most of us found in the truck with the plug and wires and fuses. The trailer brake controller is installed in place of the driver side junk holder next to the climate controls.
So, in starting, prying off the console piece between the radio and dash bezel. In my truck, it's the silver piece. This is easy once you understand. There are no screws in this piece, just four clips that you gently pull out. If you have 4 wheel drive, there is a harness you must detach. Just push the retainer down and it comes off easy. Watching this video made it a lot easier to see how it comes out.http://www.etrailer.com/tv-brake-con...ford-f150.aspx
Or, to make it easier (but only a little), you can remove the dash bezel with two 7mm screws. Just be careful not to scratch anything and pry gently. Putting it back in, the top of the bezel slides in a slot on the bottom of the dash. Make sure it goes back in there.
Ok, now that you have the trim piece off, it'll look something like this. The plug at the bottom of the opening is my 4 wheel drive harness. The two copper looking pieces near the bottom is where I removed two 7mm screws holding in the junk box. Remove those the box comes right out. Save the screws, you'll need those for the controller.
Several people have found the trailer brake harness plugged into the back of the junk box. And it certainly still looks like it could be.
However, this was not my case. I looked all around and couldn't find this dang thing. I found mine by luck under the dash by the dealers plug in. It's taped against a main wire harness. In the picture, you see the blue plug near the bottom, and directly above that, a gray plug. CAREFULLY, cut the tape holding the plug and pull it back through. Since I have big hands, I also had to pop off a pop in doodad to give me enough slack.
Once fished through, here's what you have.
There is an adapter on the plug that must come off to fit the controller.
You can now plug your controller in and reinstall using the two 7mm screws you removed from the junk box.
Reinstall your trim piece (or pieces). And you now look like you did in the first picture.
The next part is installing the fuses. This is easy. If you look at the paperwork you have in the plastic bag with pigtail and two fuses, on page 4, you will see where to install the fuses. The fuse box is in the very front and center of your engine compartment. The big fuse goes in slot 9, the little fuse in slot 21.
You are now done and need to visit a dealership to enable the trailer brake. Prices range from free to full one hour service. It literally takes five minutes to do. Up to you on how much you wish to pay. I was lucky to get mine free of charge.
Once enabled, you will find it in the instrument cluster options along with the fuel mileage and odometer.
I hope this helps ya'll.
2010 XLT Tuxedo Black Super Cab, 4x4, 5.4L, Westin Black Side Steps, Vortex Spray in bed liner, Firestone air compressor & rear air bags, Hornblaster four horn package
Towing: 2007 Grand Surveyor GS280, 31' travel trailer
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