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11 SCREW CUSTOM BOX w/ Solo Baric 8"

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Old 06-16-2012, 06:36 PM
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Cool 11 SCREW CUSTOM BOX w/ Solo Baric 8"

Here is my sub box build for the 11 SCREW for a Kicker SOLO BARIC L7 8" sub, that has 1.2 cu ft of space. It was an above average build and took some effort and thought to make. There were some trials and errors and took a whole sheet of 3/4" MDF to accomplish. But it was all worth it and sounds outstanding, opposed to the Infinity Perfect 10" sub that was in there. I will try to explain what I did with some of the pics I took.




In materials it cost little more than $100 and about 1 1/2 weeks after work hours when able to do so.
What is needed
1- 34x96 3/4"MDF Board
1- Box of Stainless Steel Security Screws (for rust issues)
1- 5 yards x 54" Metra Black Carpet
1- Tube Liquid Nail
1- Silicone Tube
1- Squeeze Gun for Tubes
1- Foam Board (used to trace the outline of the under seat)
Aside from materials
1- 8" Kicker Solo Baric L7 Subwoofer
1- Saw
1- Router/ Dremel with Router tool
1- Jig Saw
1- sander
1- Drill
AS MANY AS POSSIBLE- Wood Clamps (I had only 3 )

DIMENSIONS
24" Long x 15" Deep 10" Tall. These are at the longest measured points
So first I used the Foam Board to trace the outline of the under seat. Then I used that to trace on to the MDF and used the Jigsaw to cut 2 sides for the box out. Due to human error, I clamped the 2 sides together and sanded all sides to make the shape more form fitting and make the 2 pieces identical.

Next I made the 2 easiest pieces to make; which are the front panel (10" tall x 24" wide) and bottom panel (24" wide x 15" deep) as those are pretty much square cuts. The bottom piece can and should be little deeper as it will later be cut at the angle to accommodate the curvy back end.

Next I placed all 3 pieces together with screws and measured for width and depth for the top piece. You could also just use the dimension of what you have to make the top piece, but I went ahead and put it together for the sake of irregularities.... For this as well I left the back ending deeper to cut later to accommodate the angle in the back end.

To make the back and final end I left the top off and measured again for the width. So I made the correct width and left the height a little taller than the back end. I marked each side of the final piece and cut correct height and subtracted ¾” for the MDF that would sit on top in the final placement.


So with the top piece I had to curve the wood and to do that I had to KERF it. Give a quick Google search or YouTube search and you will find how it’s really done. In short you make several parallel cuts that are about ¼” apart and that will leave about 1/16” of wood left holding everything together. I made the KERF in the area where the wood started to stray away from being straight and started to curve at the top and the bottom. You can see in the pic where on the side panels I marked where the wood starts to bend and where the cuts were made.


I next put everything together and made sure everything squared up and lined up. In the areas that stuck out a little I sanded it and made it look good.


After that everything came apart to make the hole for the sub to fit in and start the process of making the port.


After, this I took everything apart worked on the port where I didnt take pics cause this is where I had to do alot of work to make everything fit inside with conserving the volume of the box and port as well as making sure the sub fit without hitting the port and top of the box.

After all that was taken care of I put everything back together making sure everything fit and I also started the process of the siliconing and wood gluing everything. I used the liquid nail to fill in the KERF slats that I made to curve the wood.After all was dry I carpeted the whole box and RTV'd the perimeter of the woofer to make a good air tight seal.

I hope I expressed myself clear enough, if you have any questions; post or PM me
Old 06-16-2012, 06:41 PM
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Here it is in the cab. The only thing I wish I could have done was shorten the depth by 1". As you can see the box sits out about 1.5" from the face of the seat and as you can tell the back end has unused space where I could have taken that 1"



Old 06-16-2012, 07:15 PM
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Nice work!!!
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:10 AM
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Came really nice, how does it sound?
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:16 AM
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nice build bud!
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:31 AM
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Want to make me one?!? Lol..JK
Old 06-17-2012, 09:34 AM
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Solos can sound really nice, and get a lot for your money. IMO Kicker is a step or two up from infinity. Looks good. I was worried when you said 1.5cuft box, then I saw the port. What side does the port face? Try putting the box on the driver side if you can. It can be amazing what facing a port about 6" from a body panel can do for bass response.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:05 PM
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Thanks all! I was thinking at the point when the 3 sides were being put up, that I could make a couple of these, but by the time I got to the port section; I cetainly retracted that thought.

If I ever decide to make the depth 1" smaller, I will make a new box and I will definetly let you all know this one is for sale.


EBinMT the quality is defintly better, in both SQ and SPL. This 8" hits harder and smoother than the 10". The 8" Kicker calls for 1.0 Cu ft of space to include the port for SQ (sound quality), which SQ is the way I went. The box itself sits under the the rear passenger and the port faces towards the rear driver side door. Since this is SQ for my ears it sits where it can breathe in the cab.
Old 06-17-2012, 07:40 PM
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can we get a vid of it?
Old 06-17-2012, 10:23 PM
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Sure, give me a couple of days and I'll post a video of it in action. The video wont do it justice but you can get the picture

Originally Posted by 2010blueflame4X4
can we get a vid of it?


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