chuck1890

I'm new here and have been searching around and read many informative threads and posts on the topic but I do have an issue. I've been told by my local dealer shop guy/neighbor has told me that the LEDs have been causing problems buring the wiring because "they burn so much hotter". I'm not looking to go HID headlights or anything fancy. I just want to replace the tag lights, cargo lights and dome light. Maybe, if i feel froggy, The brake/reverse lights. I have always been under the impression that LEDs burned cooler because of less wattage used. I'm not looking to be replacing or adding all kinds of stuff to make the transition because i'm simply just not that concerned about it but I would like this if it can be done in a plug/play format. If I decide to go further than the small lights, I'll do some more research on here before I do. Can anyone advise me of any truth to the burning of wiring by LEDs in these smaller capacities before I start buying lights... Thanks

JaysonsF150

My truck is all recon on the back half, cargo light, tail lights and even the 60" tailgate bar. I've never had an issue running LEDs ad having them burn through any wiring or running too hot. I say do it and enjoy the outcome

Platinum_Sean

" I've been told by my local dealer shop guy/neighbor has told me LEDs have been causing problems buring the wiring because "they burn so much hotter".

Please tell your friends and dealer shop guy, thanks for the laugh!!!!!!!! LEDs drawm 10% of the current that a filament bulb does. There is NO WAY LEDs burn hotter, no freaken way.

I have swapped ALL mine- tails, reverse, front signals, cab stop and cargo lights, even added about 50 others throughout the truck (under frame, cargo, mirrors, under dash, cab roof, ...). Wait- what's that smell? My truck is now on fire the LEDs are so hot.. Nah, just kidding.

If you swap to LEDs, you WILL need a load resistor so the flash rate is not hyper. You need a 2.70hm, 50 or 60Watt barrel type, tap that in parallel to each side, 1 each. Ask if you need pics or any other help.

S

chuck1890

Thanks guys. It really didn't sound right to me either but i'd rather investigate further than risk burning crap up and having to replace it.

Sean, I may very well be in touch down the line as this progresses. I'm in no hurry and not looking for all the extra stuff you have. I'm a simple old guy that just wants better looking lights than the drab, dull yellowish factory crap. You certainly seem to have a grasp on how to do this stuff that I frankly have no clue about like the resistor thing.. I never would have thought about that.

Thanks again. I'm sure i will have more questions later.

JaysonsF150

Are you wanting to keep the oem tails or go aftermarket

jbone14

Would love to get some more information from you on doing the taillight and front end LED swap. Could you send me a PM? Cheers!

Platinum_Sean

Let's put it here for all to see...

I bought RED 3157, 18 (or 24, I forget) SMD diode, replacement bulbs. You need 4 for the rear, 2 per side. SMD are surface mount ones, since LEDs throw light in a narrow beam, LEDs are needed pointed to the sides of the repalcement bulbs so the light fills up the reflector. Make sure you get ones that have this.

The BCM in the truck will hyperflash a turn signal when it senses low current through the signals. This is to remind the driver that a bulb is out and get it fixed. Since the LEDs draw so little current, the computer thinks there is a bulb out. The fix is to add a Power Resistor across the + and - lines of the stop/turn signal wire.

Power Resistor?? A large barrel type is needed, the formula P = V(squared)/R comes in to play. V = 12V (or 144 squared), R is 2.7ohms (I did a few bench tests to confirm), so P = 144/2.7, or 53 Watts. I screwed mine to the body work of the truck behind the tail lights to act as a heat sink.

If you can live with the hyper flash, the Resistor is not needed. I recommend adding the R's.

LEDS and Power Resistor: (note- always put RED behind a RED lens, Amber behind Amber, ...)

SunnyinHollister

If it is drawing only 10% of the current - which would equate to only 10% of the power, then why would you need a 55W resistor? Somethings not right here.

Platinum_Sean

Ohms law. I didn't make it! But its a proven fact. Power = voltage times current (times the power factor, which is 1 with DC).


Current = voltage divided by resistance.

Substitute for current, power = voltage times voltage divided by resistance,or, V squared over R.

V is 12 volts. I tried 6 ohms, it didn't slow the flashrate, 2.7 ohms is a standard size. Power = 12 squared / 2.7. P = as i stated.

The current here is NOT going through the LEDs,its a shunt,in parallel to trick the bcm.

The leds typically draw 20mA.

Problem?

jbone14

Thanks Sean! Huge help.

Just to confirm, I will be looking at something such as these for example:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1-x-Red-Rear-...ht_4918wt_1163

and these,

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/230855098737?...84.m1423.l2649