09+ 4x4 2" Front Leveling and 3" Rear block kits installation
07-03-2011, 03:46 PM
#1
Master Gunner
Thread Starter
09+ 4x4 2" Front Leveling and 3" Rear block kits installation
I finally installed a Hell Bent Steel 2" aluminum front leveling kit and a ReadyLift 3" rear block kit and hope to provide a little guidance in their installation.
FRONT LEVELING KIT:
I was a little hesitant after reading the difficulty reinstalling the lower strut on 09+ F150's... but undeterred, I pressed forward.
I can positively state that it CAN be done ALONE on a 4x4. I took me awhile to figure it out, but no bottle jack was used nor do I think it could have been as suggested by someone (I didn't see any leverage point I could place a bottle jack that wouldn't interfere with the strut installation). Nor did I disassemble the lower control arm (though I was mightily tempted at first).
I first loosely mounted the upper strut with the three nuts. Then it was the combination and coordinated use of a 25" Craftsman pry bar, a 17" Craftsman pry bar, and judicious use of a hammer along with some good old "grunt" work that got it in.
The 25" bar was used between the LCA right above the lower ball joint and the hub where the CV joint is connected to and leveraged to lower the LCA as much as possible. The 17" bar was used in the slight depression of the strut mount pocket wall of the LCA and the bottom of the strut mounting eyelet itself to compress (slightly). These were used to initially force the eyelet to partially engage the pocket so the lower strut eyelet rested on the leading edge of the pocket wall.
Once engaged and leveraging either bars as needed, I used a hammer to get the eyelet seated into the pocket. I had to twist the strut and hammer the bushings to ensure it went in at the right angle as it is somewhat of an interference fit. But once the eyelet clears the edge and the bushings are properly aligned, one more strike and the strut pops in and the bolt can be slid in easily. Only a few dings and scratched paint on the lower strut eyelet is left after the "brute force" effort, but doesn't affect integrity.
Overall, it took me roughly 2 and half hours all by my lonesome (the first one more than 45 minutes figuring out how to get the lower strut back in, but 3 minutes to pop the second one back in), but I had air tools and one heck of a high torque 1/2" impact wrench (which I HIGHLY recommend for taking off the lower strut bolt). One point that is not mentioned in the tools required is that most of them MUST be deep wheel sockets: 15mm, 18mm and 21mm. The big 30mm for the lower strut bolt nut can be a standard depth socket but it won't be able to fully engage the nut, which is why I used the impact wrench on the bolt head itself and a breaker bar to hold the nut.
REAR BLOCK KIT:
It was relatively easy and quick to install the rear block it, but there are some points to be aware of.
Block the front wheels securely to prevent BOTH front and rear movement of the vehicle, then release the parking brake and put the transmission into neutral. This will facilitate slight movement of the rear axle to align the spring pins onto the new, taller block.
With my standard 2-1/2 ton floor jack with its average lifting height of 21" I had to use one 4x4 and a pair of 2x6 wood blocks in order to lift the leaf spring high enough at max lift. And it barely cleared installing the 3" block under the spring locating pins. Because of the parking brake cable, you have to lift the springs from the rear. And believe me, it looks a bit unstable and I was very careful never to put any body part between the block/axle and spring. Slowly lower the spring while adjusting the block to engage the leaf spring pins. It may take several attempts and moving of the axle itself to get them engaged. My first side I couldn't get them engaged but when I opened the driver's door to release the transmission (I had started out with it in park), there was a loud "snap" as the spring seated itself onto the block. Lucky me!
MEASUREMENTS:
Before the kits, the heights were measured vertically from both the bottom of the rim and the ground, through the centerline of the hub up to the bottom corner edge of the wheel moulding.
Before-
Front (rim): 33.0"
Front (ground): 37-1/4"
Rear, Left (rim): 34-1/2"
Rear, Left (ground): 38-3/4"
Rear, Right (rim): 35-1/4"
Rear, Right (ground): 39-1/2"
After-
Front (rim): 35.0"
Front (ground): 39-1/4"
Rear, Left (rim): 36-1/2"
Rear, Left (ground): 40-3/4"
Rear, Right (rim): 36-3/4"
Rear, Right (ground): 41.0"
It's interesting to note that before the lift, the rear bed was "tilted" with 3/4" difference, which lessened to only 1/4" after the new rear blocks were installed.
After all was said and done, the ride from driving it was noticeably "different" (higher) which was a surprise with only 2" net lift. I did the rear block only because I think it would look "better" with 33" tires, but I actually like the look when I had just the front 2" leveler installed; after the new wheels are installed, I may think about swapping out the blocks for maybe a 2" version (net +1" lift over stock).
FRONT LEVELING KIT:
I was a little hesitant after reading the difficulty reinstalling the lower strut on 09+ F150's... but undeterred, I pressed forward.
I can positively state that it CAN be done ALONE on a 4x4. I took me awhile to figure it out, but no bottle jack was used nor do I think it could have been as suggested by someone (I didn't see any leverage point I could place a bottle jack that wouldn't interfere with the strut installation). Nor did I disassemble the lower control arm (though I was mightily tempted at first).
I first loosely mounted the upper strut with the three nuts. Then it was the combination and coordinated use of a 25" Craftsman pry bar, a 17" Craftsman pry bar, and judicious use of a hammer along with some good old "grunt" work that got it in.
The 25" bar was used between the LCA right above the lower ball joint and the hub where the CV joint is connected to and leveraged to lower the LCA as much as possible. The 17" bar was used in the slight depression of the strut mount pocket wall of the LCA and the bottom of the strut mounting eyelet itself to compress (slightly). These were used to initially force the eyelet to partially engage the pocket so the lower strut eyelet rested on the leading edge of the pocket wall.
Once engaged and leveraging either bars as needed, I used a hammer to get the eyelet seated into the pocket. I had to twist the strut and hammer the bushings to ensure it went in at the right angle as it is somewhat of an interference fit. But once the eyelet clears the edge and the bushings are properly aligned, one more strike and the strut pops in and the bolt can be slid in easily. Only a few dings and scratched paint on the lower strut eyelet is left after the "brute force" effort, but doesn't affect integrity.
Overall, it took me roughly 2 and half hours all by my lonesome (the first one more than 45 minutes figuring out how to get the lower strut back in, but 3 minutes to pop the second one back in), but I had air tools and one heck of a high torque 1/2" impact wrench (which I HIGHLY recommend for taking off the lower strut bolt). One point that is not mentioned in the tools required is that most of them MUST be deep wheel sockets: 15mm, 18mm and 21mm. The big 30mm for the lower strut bolt nut can be a standard depth socket but it won't be able to fully engage the nut, which is why I used the impact wrench on the bolt head itself and a breaker bar to hold the nut.
REAR BLOCK KIT:
It was relatively easy and quick to install the rear block it, but there are some points to be aware of.
Block the front wheels securely to prevent BOTH front and rear movement of the vehicle, then release the parking brake and put the transmission into neutral. This will facilitate slight movement of the rear axle to align the spring pins onto the new, taller block.
With my standard 2-1/2 ton floor jack with its average lifting height of 21" I had to use one 4x4 and a pair of 2x6 wood blocks in order to lift the leaf spring high enough at max lift. And it barely cleared installing the 3" block under the spring locating pins. Because of the parking brake cable, you have to lift the springs from the rear. And believe me, it looks a bit unstable and I was very careful never to put any body part between the block/axle and spring. Slowly lower the spring while adjusting the block to engage the leaf spring pins. It may take several attempts and moving of the axle itself to get them engaged. My first side I couldn't get them engaged but when I opened the driver's door to release the transmission (I had started out with it in park), there was a loud "snap" as the spring seated itself onto the block. Lucky me!
MEASUREMENTS:
Before the kits, the heights were measured vertically from both the bottom of the rim and the ground, through the centerline of the hub up to the bottom corner edge of the wheel moulding.
Before-
Front (rim): 33.0"
Front (ground): 37-1/4"
Rear, Left (rim): 34-1/2"
Rear, Left (ground): 38-3/4"
Rear, Right (rim): 35-1/4"
Rear, Right (ground): 39-1/2"
After-
Front (rim): 35.0"
Front (ground): 39-1/4"
Rear, Left (rim): 36-1/2"
Rear, Left (ground): 40-3/4"
Rear, Right (rim): 36-3/4"
Rear, Right (ground): 41.0"
It's interesting to note that before the lift, the rear bed was "tilted" with 3/4" difference, which lessened to only 1/4" after the new rear blocks were installed.
After all was said and done, the ride from driving it was noticeably "different" (higher) which was a surprise with only 2" net lift. I did the rear block only because I think it would look "better" with 33" tires, but I actually like the look when I had just the front 2" leveler installed; after the new wheels are installed, I may think about swapping out the blocks for maybe a 2" version (net +1" lift over stock).
