Smoke270

Well I had a chance to install it today. I didn't have the fourth wire I used the white wire with the purple stripe at the headlight switch. The only issue I can see is if you have the parking lights on and the truck is off, after a few minutes the LEDs get really dim and flicker. If the truck is running the work as they should. Anyone else run into this?

The gasket isn't any better than the stock one. It just looks thicker because it's not squished down.

Why do my headlight come on if I unplug the headlight switch?

Red89gt

Lights come on if headlight switch fails u have lights is my guess.
Pretty good idea if ford did intentionally.

deanfx

I installed mine today too. My truck had the fourth wire I assume. Couldn't see it but the running lights work. Getting to the plug was a definite struggle. Plus the BackFlip cover was a hinderence.

Info think it was worth the money and hassle though, and my factory gasket was in terrible shape. The raptor gasket does look more robust.

rrenz

Yea not too sure why the lights come on. Could be a fail safe, I noticed that too. However yes when the truck is off there is only 12 volts to that wire for a few seconds.. Enough to trip the relay and then it drops to an extremely low voltage to keep the parking lights on if the vehicle is off. I thought i had heard somewhere that that was a safety thing that was required by law...I could be very wrong. However i felt that using that wire made for a cleaner install either way.

Smoke270

Yeah I wasn't sure which wire to use, I couldn't remember. I couldn't get power at any if the in the switch but the solid purple for the light in the switch. I thought it was the white/purple so I bared off a small piece and still couldn't get my light tester on. I ran my wire and hooked up the 3rd brake light. I then touched the wires together and it lit up...lol...go figure.
I had a few things to do. Had a Putco elements bug shield and vent visors to put on. Decided to do the brake light first because I figured it would be the easiest. Boy did it take the wind out of my sails. I can't believe I didn't have that damn fourth wire.

Thanks for the tip on getting the headliner clips out. I just reached through the back window until I got my fingers around the foam that surrounds the clips and pushed down. A lot less chance of marring the headliner or its clips.

TJPlatinumEB

Rather than splicing into a wire on the headlight switch that specifically has a warning label on it NOT to tap into, you can spend $6 bucks at Autozone, tap into Fuse 40 in the passenger foot well, and have a perfectly running light setup without any splicing.

Smoke270

What $6 part and is fuse 40 for the parking lights?

rrenz

A fuse tap. I had considered that since I have a few kicking around but I figured tapping into the fuse block would be hot whenever the key was on. I only wanted the lights on when the parking lights or headlights were on. I'd rather pull from the fuse block so I can run the running lights and grille lights (should I choose to do that at a later time) but I'm curious if pulling from fuse 40 is hot whenever the key is on

Smoke270

actually i am wondering the same thing. I only want mine on with the parking lights.

TJPlatinumEB

The tap at fuse 40 only has positive voltage through it when the parking lights are turned on. There is zero voltage going through it any other time.

If you go to AutoZone or anywhere like that, the Add-A-Circuit is what you ask for or look for. It gives you a dedicated fuse and wire for whatever you want to add to the car while not effecting or interfering with any of the other existing circuits.