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what extended travel rear shocks are ppl runing??

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Old 06-21-2014, 05:34 AM
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Don't want to hi-jack the thread but the removal of the sway bar got my interest. What would be the good / bad associated with removing it? In my case I have the bilstein coilover with I think a 700 lb eibach. Would there by any advantage or need to make removable sway bar links like jeepers do?
Old 06-21-2014, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jus Jim
Don't want to hi-jack the thread but the removal of the sway bar got my interest. What would be the good / bad associated with removing it? In my case I have the bilstein coilover with I think a 700 lb eibach. Would there by any advantage or need to make removable sway bar links like jeepers do?
I don't run one at all. If your springs are stiff enough then you won't suffer body roll on road and off road the front suspension operates truly independent.

It's personal preference. Some folks throw the safety flag but that's baloney - IF you have upgraded your other components to make up for it.
Old 06-23-2014, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WarSurfer
Shocks of the same overall length will yield very similar travel numbers - the only variance comes from differences in internal components that in some cases can 'give up' another .5 to 1" of movement.

****true, i am aware of this.

Think about it, you can't put a 10" shaft into an 8" body shock - for more travel you need a shock that is physically longer overall - the body of the shock.


****yes, i am again aware of this, this is why i was asking for information from ppl who have experience with my concerns. looking for detailed shock information, but there were no responses from ppl with specific shock details. not even a bit of info about stock shock details. if i missed something please point it out.

It is entirely possible that Tacoma's come with a shock that isn't long enough to allow the spring pack to fully droop out - we aren't talking about Tacoma's here.


*****clearly we are not talking about tacomas, maybe the point was missed, which was that these forums are full of less than accurate information when it comes to the majority of web wheelers. again, please provide proof of concept.

Our rear suspension isn't limited by the shock, meaning our shocks are appropriately sized. If one were to install a longer shock in the stock location you may gain a tad in droop travel but you would lose compression travel because there is only so much room for movement using stock mounting points.


**** this concept is very clear with me, so when you say one may gain a tad in rear drop does this in fact mean the rear shock is not the limiting factor? ..see, now things makes limited sense.. i see that you have an understanding of components but do you have the details to prove your statements? not wanting to start crap, am very willing to see proof of statements.

As I posted earlier, you aren't limited by the shock with stock springs / shackles. I'm not saying travel can't be limited by the shocks, I'm saying in our case they aren't your primary obstacle.


****ok.... so where are helpful details on this forum about getting that extra little bit??

You can gain about an inch of droop travel with long travel shackles. You can gain about 1" of droop travel by replacing the eyelet bushings in the leaf pack with poly bushings - the factory rubber deforms when tightened and can limit droop.


*****this seems like an inexpensive option to gain a good amount of rear travel for somebody that regularly drives trails full of off camber and odd flexy lumps.

Travel is important but if money / bed utility is a limiting factor then you need to focus on making the available travel as effective as possible.

see above..

****now there's the stuff, available travel!! that's exactly why i have been asking about a shock that is a bit longer to work with the available travel after installing the add a leaf.

Last edited by bzzr2; 06-23-2014 at 02:59 AM.
Old 06-23-2014, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bzzr2
see above.. ****now there's the stuff, available travel!! that's exactly why i have been asking about a shock that is a bit longer to work with the available travel after installing the add a leaf.
I fear you might be over-thinking this.

Our Gen f150's all share the same rear suspension. The Raptor's only difference is the shocks and spring pack. That means with factory Raptor components, a non Raptor can achieve 12" of travel out back - just like a Raptor.

If you use Raptor shocks, poly eyelet bushings on your leaf pack and run LT shackles, you can get right at 14" of travel out back - the extra two inches being droop only.

In stock configuration our trucks can and will bounce off the bump stops - ergo there is no additional up travel to be had. It is also true that because of where our upper shock mounts are located, running a 'longer' shock won't buy you much if anything - and as I said earlier, any gain in droop would result in a loss of compression - there is only so much room between the upper and lower mounting points.

Running an add-a-leaf / mini pack won't gain travel, you are just running with the axle further into the 'droop range', the overall travel hasn't changed.

It is true that Deavers / Nationals will allow the rear to droop out further but unless you are willing to modify the mounting points you are still restricted by the distance from top mount to bottom mount - meaning that only a Raptor spec shock will fit and not give away up travel - you don't want to bottom out a shock as your upper travel limiter.

Measure all you want but the Raptor guys (like me) have done all the homework for you. Unless you are willing to do some cutting and welding, 14" is about all you are going to get.

If only someone would chime in that had done extensive research prior to spending 40k on suspension upgrades... Hey, wait a minute...



what extended travel rear shocks are ppl runing??-image-3377785866.jpg
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:54 AM
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If the shock is the suspensions droop stop, the shaft would get ripped out of the shock body in a heart beat. Your shock should never be your limiter in your suspension. This is why guys strap the front and rear end when they start adding travel to their rigs. I honestly don't believe that the Tacoma gained travel with adding a longer shock because then the stock shock would be at risk of destroying itself everytime the rear end dropped out. Shocks are not made to hold up a rear end and 2 rims and tires.
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Old 06-26-2014, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by buster096
If the shock is the suspensions droop stop, the shaft would get ripped out of the shock body in a heart beat. Your shock should never be your limiter in your suspension. This is why guys strap the front and rear end when they start adding travel to their rigs. I honestly don't believe that the Tacoma gained travel with adding a longer shock because then the stock shock would be at risk of destroying itself everytime the rear end dropped out. Shocks are not made to hold up a rear end and 2 rims and tires.
i've seem a few tacoma's running the same aftermarket leaf pack i was running and the ones that kept the stock rear shocks were clearly limited by the shock with the endless maxing out of the shock and annoying banging, the shocks lasted for quite while and were never trashed, no ripping things apart. measured a couple rear shocks that provided results demonstrating the extra travel. while i agree that the leaf pack has limitations, i've had another off road vehicle where the shock was without question the limiting factor, with the rear on coils the shock was what kept things together before the 5 link rear panhard bar was maxed out. the shocks usually lasted a year before leaking, this vehicle took a lot of abuse wheeling. and each time i dug around after finding my leaky shocks i found something a bit longer that worked. from start to finish the last shock was 3 inches longer than the 1st and results were great. not a ford, totally different vehicle but the shocks never ripped apart. i'm off the pavement 2-3 times a month were travel is maxed out frequently with the ford, nothing hardcore but gotta get where the truck needs to get me!
Old 06-26-2014, 12:18 PM
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Some good info here for sure. When I went to install my factory size King 2.5's in the rear, I believe I had to jack the axle up just a tiny bit to get the lower bolt in. This tells me that the shock is still the limiting factor at full droop, correct? Pardon my ignorance on this as this was my first time swapping to a higher end suspension system (2.5's up front too).

Second part of my question is I'm probably going to get a set of Alcan's or Deavers for the back. If I do, does this mean that I'm going to have to go with something like the factory Raptor rear shocks to ensure that the extra droop travel is available with the shock body? I think my King rears were only a hair longer uncompressed than the OEM shocks. WarSurfer, I think this question is aimed at you haha.
Old 06-26-2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TheWooginator
Some good info here for sure. When I went to install my factory size King 2.5's in the rear, I believe I had to jack the axle up just a tiny bit to get the lower bolt in. This tells me that the shock is still the limiting factor at full droop, correct? Pardon my ignorance on this as this was my first time swapping to a higher end suspension system (2.5's up front too). Second part of my question is I'm probably going to get a set of Alcan's or Deavers for the back. If I do, does this mean that I'm going to have to go with something like the factory Raptor rear shocks to ensure that the extra droop travel is available with the shock body? I think my King rears were only a hair longer uncompressed than the OEM shocks. WarSurfer, I think this question is aimed at you haha.
the shock 'can' limit droop, the problem we have is the distance between mounting points. A leaf pack like Deavers or Nationals will droop out more than a factory pack - you are still limited by the factory mounting points. There are two options for maximizing travel out back - cantilever or bed cage. Both relocate mounting points and allow for a longer travel unit.

As I posted earlier, fighting for that last inch when using the factory shock mounts is pointless.

An upgraded spring pack will droop more than factory but some of that travel will go unused unless you get away from the stock shock mounts.

Be happy with the increased dampening ability and better ride - or start cutting.

I went with a mild cantilever setup, I'm strapped at 16".

You'll be fine with your 2.5s and Alcans. Get a bump kit and call it done.
Old 06-26-2014, 04:24 PM
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Sounds like a plan, although the bump kit is even more than the leafs. Won't have enough cheddar for that for a while. Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I'm pretty sure I'm getting the Alcan's vs the Deavers or Nationals. Price point is solid for what you get it seems.

That canti setup you have is the ***** though.



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