welded front rear locker
#1
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welded front rear locker
ok got a brain picker for someone out there, been sittin around thinkin about doing some lockers on my truck and something hit me, how bad or good would it be to weld the front rear on a axel that has lock out hubs?
got to figure when there not in dont have to worry about it on the street. just wondering if anyone has done this yet or its just a stupid idea thats going to do more harm then good.
got to figure when there not in dont have to worry about it on the street. just wondering if anyone has done this yet or its just a stupid idea thats going to do more harm then good.
#2
Senior Member
I wouldn't weld either one.
You gotta remember that all 4 wheels turn at different speeds when turning, not just left and right. There is a difference in speed between front and rear also. In other words, no 2 tires are turning at the same speed when turning.
If you weld the front, you're right. If the hubs are unlocked, it makes no difference in 2wd, but when locked, even when the transfer case is in 2wd, it will bind and drag a tire. And remember, front end components aren't as strong as the rear. U-joints break pretty easily.
In the rear, unless it's a strictly off-road vehicle or a pulling truck, you're gonna burn up tires really quick, and it won't handle properly on the street. It'll push straight rather than turn.
If money is the issue, go with a no-slip locker in the front and rear. They're lockers that unlock to let you go around a turn. And you don't need to disassemble the diff to do them. They still will bind in some circumstances, but overall will be better than FULL-LOCKED ALL THE TIME.
If money isn't an issue, go with a selectable locker like the ARB or Eaton E-locker
Once you weld a diff, If you realize you don't like it, you have to replace it. Then you'll wish you did it right in the first place.. (speaking from experience)
You gotta remember that all 4 wheels turn at different speeds when turning, not just left and right. There is a difference in speed between front and rear also. In other words, no 2 tires are turning at the same speed when turning.
If you weld the front, you're right. If the hubs are unlocked, it makes no difference in 2wd, but when locked, even when the transfer case is in 2wd, it will bind and drag a tire. And remember, front end components aren't as strong as the rear. U-joints break pretty easily.
In the rear, unless it's a strictly off-road vehicle or a pulling truck, you're gonna burn up tires really quick, and it won't handle properly on the street. It'll push straight rather than turn.
If money is the issue, go with a no-slip locker in the front and rear. They're lockers that unlock to let you go around a turn. And you don't need to disassemble the diff to do them. They still will bind in some circumstances, but overall will be better than FULL-LOCKED ALL THE TIME.
If money isn't an issue, go with a selectable locker like the ARB or Eaton E-locker
Once you weld a diff, If you realize you don't like it, you have to replace it. Then you'll wish you did it right in the first place.. (speaking from experience)
#3
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ok yea true, i was just thinkin out loud. welding the rears is prolly the cheapest but not nessasarly the best. wish i could afford a high end locker from like ox or air locker what about these limited slip how they workin out for you.
reason why im doing this i want all 4 wheels to get power and be not as hard on components what kind of limited slip would you recomend
reason why im doing this i want all 4 wheels to get power and be not as hard on components what kind of limited slip would you recomend
#4
ok yea true, i was just thinkin out loud. welding the rears is prolly the cheapest but not nessasarly the best. wish i could afford a high end locker from like ox or air locker what about these limited slip how they workin out for you.
reason why im doing this i want all 4 wheels to get power and be not as hard on components what kind of limited slip would you recomend
reason why im doing this i want all 4 wheels to get power and be not as hard on components what kind of limited slip would you recomend
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...trac/index.htm
I plan on putting one of these in when i have my rear taken apart to fix the leaking pinion seal.