SAS or 9 inch lift?
#1
SAS or 9 inch lift?
I have a 99 f150 with a 3 inch body lift on 35's. I need to decide what my next step is. I have seen an identical truck with 3 inch body and 6 suspension on 40s this I want to do. My question is can the truck handle 40s? Off course it will have to be regeared but can I spin these tires in mud And do light hill climbing or am I just going to blow up front end parts? I know the solid axle is of course better but not a easy job. This will not be a Daily driver. Don't worry I completely understand the liftin vehicles thing I'm not new to it just wondering what the limits of IFS are. Thanks in advance all input helps.
#2
Senior Member
I owned 2 03s with 9"+ of lift.
The first was bought new and lifted at 10k miles. 3" Body, 6" Fabtech on 37x12.50 BFGs. It was totaled at 24k. Front end had no signs of wear.
The second was bought used at 20k, lifted at 24k miles. 3" Body, 6" Fabtech on 38x15.50 PJs and then Toyos.
At 60k(IIRC) front end was shot, needed to replace ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, and pitman arm.
At 70k I added AAL and Torsion Keys. After adding those it seamed like every 5k I was swapping out idler arms.
Sold truck at 92k ish.
It was a DD (40miles one way to work) up until I had 70k on it. Then became a weekend toy.
If you want to be swapping out front end parts annually(if only a weekend pounder)more often if you drive more I'd said go SAS.
Wayne
The first was bought new and lifted at 10k miles. 3" Body, 6" Fabtech on 37x12.50 BFGs. It was totaled at 24k. Front end had no signs of wear.
The second was bought used at 20k, lifted at 24k miles. 3" Body, 6" Fabtech on 38x15.50 PJs and then Toyos.
At 60k(IIRC) front end was shot, needed to replace ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, and pitman arm.
At 70k I added AAL and Torsion Keys. After adding those it seamed like every 5k I was swapping out idler arms.
Sold truck at 92k ish.
It was a DD (40miles one way to work) up until I had 70k on it. Then became a weekend toy.
If you want to be swapping out front end parts annually(if only a weekend pounder)more often if you drive more I'd said go SAS.
Wayne
Last edited by Z7What; 03-29-2014 at 01:35 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Your half ton rigging can't handle 40's unless it's a garage queen and even then, say goodbye to just about everything. If you want to go that big, get a straight axle f250 (or 350) or suffer. I had 37's on my woods truck and it ate front ends like a buffet. IFS, especially on a half ton isn't ready for those size tires and nothing you can do to it will prepare it. Straight axle is your answer right there and not only that but you're going to eat differentials and transmissions left and right. Your adding a ton of stress on your truck that it never had before just to move itself. It puts the same style stresses on the driveline as towing and you wouldn't tow a huge load with a half ton..
People might tell you you'll be okay but there's a reason you never see half tons on 40's and it's because they can't take it. You will ruin your transmission, front and rear dif and a ton of other parts as well. Get a one ton or a 3/4 ton if that's all you can find and put it on 40's. If it's not diesel or a big gasser though it will hardly get out of it's own way, no matter what you run for gears. Not only that but breaks are a big thing and believe it or not the bigger breaks on a super duty make quite a bit of difference compared to your stock half ton breaks.
Anything bigger then 35's on a half ton is asking for trouble, especially with IFS. On the other side of things, once upon a time my father ran a a 96 f-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke on 40's. It had a 6 inch lift and a 3 inch body lift and not only looked awesome but held together with less problems then my half ton on 35's did. They're built much more rugged not to mention a 5.3 will barely turn 40's. They're a big tire, regearing isn't going to help a whole lot because you're still not going to have a lot of power. Unless you have a 460, a v10 or a diesel 40's will do nothing but hurt.
People might tell you you'll be okay but there's a reason you never see half tons on 40's and it's because they can't take it. You will ruin your transmission, front and rear dif and a ton of other parts as well. Get a one ton or a 3/4 ton if that's all you can find and put it on 40's. If it's not diesel or a big gasser though it will hardly get out of it's own way, no matter what you run for gears. Not only that but breaks are a big thing and believe it or not the bigger breaks on a super duty make quite a bit of difference compared to your stock half ton breaks.
Anything bigger then 35's on a half ton is asking for trouble, especially with IFS. On the other side of things, once upon a time my father ran a a 96 f-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke on 40's. It had a 6 inch lift and a 3 inch body lift and not only looked awesome but held together with less problems then my half ton on 35's did. They're built much more rugged not to mention a 5.3 will barely turn 40's. They're a big tire, regearing isn't going to help a whole lot because you're still not going to have a lot of power. Unless you have a 460, a v10 or a diesel 40's will do nothing but hurt.
Last edited by sportster07; 03-29-2014 at 03:48 PM.
#5
Senior Member
If your geared then you won't have to worry about the tranny. I had 100k miles on my tranny. Installed a Factory Tech shift kit, bypassed tranny lines going to radiator and installed a tranny cooler with a fan. Never seen temps over 180* even while towing or drag racing. Tranny is still going strong.
I would say 40s are a little big but doable. Just keep in mine parts will wear fast. Mine was NEVER off-roaded EVER!
Wayne
I would say 40s are a little big but doable. Just keep in mine parts will wear fast. Mine was NEVER off-roaded EVER!
Wayne