removing front sway bar
03-01-2017, 09:31 PM
#12
2015 F150 Guy
Sway bar and Icons
How did you end up with you front end setup? I too just ordered a set of Icon 2.5s and already have the Fox 2.0s in the rear. It's my experience(with cars anyway) that once you have a good firm setup up front, you don't need OR WANT the FSB. I recently removed mine from a car with a decent set of coils and that thing corners WAY better without it. No tire squeal or understeer. Yes, the wheel feels a TINY bit slower, but the trade off is 110% worth it. I plan on trying it with my mostly street driven F150.
What's the big deal anyway? Just unbolt one link.(to test drive)
TomJV
Last edited by tomjv; 03-04-2017 at 09:05 AM.
03-03-2017, 11:21 AM
#13
Senior Member
Interesting. I had a Tacoma before the F-150. I loved it once I took it off. I've been nervous taking it off on this truck for some reason. Might have to give it a try though.
03-08-2017, 06:44 PM
#15
2015 F150 Guy
I pulled one link today and drove around the block. Seems safe enough(rub wise). I gotta work ... I'll get back to yas.
For those of you wondering, the POINT of removing the FSB is to increase traction at the detriment of steering response. How much more traction? How much loss of steering response? It all depends on you suspension. If you stock, DON'T BOTHER. The stock stuff s@#($ and you NEED the FSB to control massive body roll. If you upgraded your front suspension like I did (Icon 2.5s), you may benefit. I haven't figured it out yet.
I've read that the off road guys like it because it allows for greater front end articulation and independent wheel reaction. I tend to agree.
The FSB is employed by designers because it allows them to install cheesy soft suspension springs. Soft cheesy springs require soft cheesy tubes. Sway bars are cheap. These springs ride smooth but are too soft to properly control body roll. The bar connects both lower control arms. As you steer around a corner the car rolls, i.e. one side compresses and the other expands. The bar seeks to minimize body roll by playing these forces off eachother. The degree of roll control is governed by it's diameter and the weight of the expanding side. Unfortunately, this action unweights the inside wheel and REDUCES rubber contact patch, resulting in loss of traction, or creep >> understeer.
This is all academic. We'll see how she drives!
TomJV
......................
How to? Cake!
The front sway is secured to the lower control arms via a link on each side. Each link is secured by 2 bolts. There are two straps in the toward the center of the bar securing it to the frame via four more nuts.
If you want to try it out without fully removing the bar(which is what I'm doing),
I DON'T THINK IT WILL DAMAGE ANYTHING! TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK! I would be particularly concerned over the brake and ABS lines. I would definitely NOT go off roading at full articulation.
Also, I would try some emergency type maneuvers in a safe place so you're not surprised when it counts ... but this is all common sense.
Remove one link for demo:
You can remove one link from one side which will deactivate the bar without fully removing it(for demo purposes)
You CAN'T simply disconnect one side to remove it. The bolts are part of the links and there's not enough clearance to get the bolts out.
First, remove the two nuts from one side. Note that the link is still captive. Then, remove one nut from the second side. The bar will then pivot allowing removal of the first link.
Re-install the single nut to secure the bar to one control arm. Failure to do this will result in the bar sagging and possible DAMAGE to you truck.
Again, I'm no expert on this, but it LOOKS like it's not going to damage anything on my 2015. I ran mine around the block a couple of times and checked wheel rub and it seems fine. This is a short term solution to demo the car without a FSB.
Full Removal:
Remove all four control arm link nuts and all four strap nuts. Done. This bar looks really easy to remove and install. Some cars have them threaded thru the frame necessitating dropping the steering rack etc.
----------------
A story - I had this tapping noise in my car for a year which turned out to be a missing FSB link bolt. I finally figured it out and replaced it only to find out the car handled BETTER WITHOUT IT! No s@#$. I pulled the bolt again and am contemplating a full delete. Of course a car is a car and NOT a truck.
For those of you wondering, the POINT of removing the FSB is to increase traction at the detriment of steering response. How much more traction? How much loss of steering response? It all depends on you suspension. If you stock, DON'T BOTHER. The stock stuff s@#($ and you NEED the FSB to control massive body roll. If you upgraded your front suspension like I did (Icon 2.5s), you may benefit. I haven't figured it out yet.
I've read that the off road guys like it because it allows for greater front end articulation and independent wheel reaction. I tend to agree.
The FSB is employed by designers because it allows them to install cheesy soft suspension springs. Soft cheesy springs require soft cheesy tubes. Sway bars are cheap. These springs ride smooth but are too soft to properly control body roll. The bar connects both lower control arms. As you steer around a corner the car rolls, i.e. one side compresses and the other expands. The bar seeks to minimize body roll by playing these forces off eachother. The degree of roll control is governed by it's diameter and the weight of the expanding side. Unfortunately, this action unweights the inside wheel and REDUCES rubber contact patch, resulting in loss of traction, or creep >> understeer.
This is all academic. We'll see how she drives!
TomJV
......................
How to? Cake!
The front sway is secured to the lower control arms via a link on each side. Each link is secured by 2 bolts. There are two straps in the toward the center of the bar securing it to the frame via four more nuts.
If you want to try it out without fully removing the bar(which is what I'm doing),
I DON'T THINK IT WILL DAMAGE ANYTHING! TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK! I would be particularly concerned over the brake and ABS lines. I would definitely NOT go off roading at full articulation.
Also, I would try some emergency type maneuvers in a safe place so you're not surprised when it counts ... but this is all common sense.
Remove one link for demo:
You can remove one link from one side which will deactivate the bar without fully removing it(for demo purposes)
You CAN'T simply disconnect one side to remove it. The bolts are part of the links and there's not enough clearance to get the bolts out.
First, remove the two nuts from one side. Note that the link is still captive. Then, remove one nut from the second side. The bar will then pivot allowing removal of the first link.
Re-install the single nut to secure the bar to one control arm. Failure to do this will result in the bar sagging and possible DAMAGE to you truck.
Again, I'm no expert on this, but it LOOKS like it's not going to damage anything on my 2015. I ran mine around the block a couple of times and checked wheel rub and it seems fine. This is a short term solution to demo the car without a FSB.
Full Removal:
Remove all four control arm link nuts and all four strap nuts. Done. This bar looks really easy to remove and install. Some cars have them threaded thru the frame necessitating dropping the steering rack etc.
----------------
A story - I had this tapping noise in my car for a year which turned out to be a missing FSB link bolt. I finally figured it out and replaced it only to find out the car handled BETTER WITHOUT IT! No s@#$. I pulled the bolt again and am contemplating a full delete. Of course a car is a car and NOT a truck.
Last edited by tomjv; 03-08-2017 at 07:04 PM.