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Off Road Clearance: 3" lift w/ 35's vs. 6" lift w/35's

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Old 08-26-2015, 03:43 AM
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Default Off Road Clearance: 3" lift w/ 35's vs. 6" lift w/35's

So I put a 3" tuff country lift on my 2012 ecoboost xlt, it includes a 3" block for the rear to replace the 1" block, adding 2" in the back, and then a 2" spacer on top of strut and a 1" preload spacer in strut for 3" up front, with a new greasable upper control arm to maintain factory geometry. I put on a set of 305/70 R18 mastercraft mxt's, which say right on the tire under the metric size ' o.d. 35" o.w. 12.50" '. A friend of mine recently bought a 2014 ecoboost xlt with a 6" lift and 35x12.50R20 NITTO mt's, so the same overall dimensions as mine. Its a pretty sweet truck, but when I was looking at the two of them side by side, I noticed that mine seems to have significantly more front axle clearance...because of the front suspension components used to maintain proper geometry.

I just thought this was an interesting bit of info, as well as the measurements I took of the two of them for body clearance, at the back of the front fender and the front of the rear fender. Ill put pics up, mine is the white one and my friends is the silver one. Just thought it would be an interesting topic to discuss
Old 08-26-2015, 03:55 AM
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Back of front fender on 3" lifted truck





Back of front fender on 6" lifted truck





From of rear fender on 6" lifted truck





Front of rear fender on 3" lifted truck
Old 08-26-2015, 03:59 AM
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Old 08-26-2015, 04:07 AM
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I have had my truck out and the suspension fully flexes without rubbing, lock to lock, but I did have to trim quit a bit, due to my tires sticking out a little too far. So mainly I would like to discuss the pros/cons of these two trucks for off road use. Thanks for any input
Old 08-26-2015, 07:41 AM
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Not really pertaining to which is best for off-roading, but your buddy probably has an extra 100 lbs of front bumper.

Also, hard to tell from the picture (shadows) but the front axle clearance looks similar to me, but your buddy's looks a bit beefier.
Old 08-26-2015, 08:30 AM
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Front axle clearance in this case is a misnomer. You'll hit your lower control arms, not your axles as they are above the LCAs.

The variance in LCA angle is due to the method of lift chosen. The angle on the silver truck is ideal, the angle on the white truck is less than ideal. With IFS it isn't about 'clearance' per se, its about running the CV axle in as flat a plane as possible to keep it from chewing up the CV joints / tearing boots, etc...

In your case (white truck), lift is provided by both preloading the coilover (they aren't struts) and using a spacer - both of which essentially 'push down' the front suspension such that they ride in the lower range of the travel arch (droop) thus lifting the frame away from the wheel centerline.

In your friends case (silver truck) the LCAs were dropped using the lift bracket (that large bar that bolts on to the frame and locates the LCAs) and uses longer knuckles to keep the upper and lower angles aligned. So while his setup also 'lowers' the front wheel centerline in relation to the frame, it does so by moving the entire suspension downward.

cliffs notes - his geometry is ideal based on the angle of his axle shafts. I can't see your axles but based on the angle of your LCAs, your axle shaft angle is less than ideal.
Old 08-26-2015, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by WarSurfer
Front axle clearance in this case is a misnomer. You'll hit your lower control arms, not your axles as they are above the LCAs.

The variance in LCA angle is due to the method of lift chosen. The angle on the silver truck is ideal, the angle on the white truck is less than ideal. With IFS it isn't about 'clearance' per se, its about running the CV axle in as flat a plane as possible to keep it from chewing up the CV joints / tearing boots, etc...

In your case (white truck), lift is provided by both preloading the coilover (they aren't struts) and using a spacer - both of which essentially 'push down' the front suspension such that they ride in the lower range of the travel arch (droop) thus lifting the frame away from the wheel centerline.

In your friends case (silver truck) the LCAs were dropped using the lift bracket (that large bar that bolts on to the frame and locates the LCAs) and uses longer knuckles to keep the upper and lower angles aligned. So while his setup also 'lowers' the front wheel centerline in relation to the frame, it does so by moving the entire suspension downward.

cliffs notes - his geometry is ideal based on the angle of his axle shafts. I can't see your axles but based on the angle of your LCAs, your axle shaft angle is less than ideal.
So...is there a bracket that lowers the entire front axle of the 6" lifted truck? Because if the wheel centerline is lowered, but not the axle, then wouldn't there be MORE angle on the cv joints and axle shaft? Just trying to understand, I didn't get under and study the 6" lift, just looked from the distance. And my other question is, why are the measurements from ground to bottom of body nearly the same at the back of the front fender of both trucks? Shouldn't the 6" lift be 3" higher?
Old 08-26-2015, 09:59 AM
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Ok I looked at the picture more, I see the axle shaft is coming strait out. Forgive my ignorance, I'm just trying to better understand.
Old 08-26-2015, 10:16 AM
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Lift kits are a lot like tires.

Some tires might be labeled as a 33" tire, but actually measures at 32.5" or less/more once mounted on the vehicle.

Some companies measure their "lifts" as springs that are X" taller than stock, but after the vehicle weight is applied they might not be as much taller as advertised, others (usually higher quality) measure their lifts after vehicle weight has been applied to the springs.
Old 08-26-2015, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Havyek
Lift kits are a lot like tires.

Some tires might be labeled as a 33" tire, but actually measures at 32.5" or less/more once mounted on the vehicle.

Some companies measure their "lifts" as springs that are X" taller than stock, but after the vehicle weight is applied they might not be as much taller as advertised, others (usually higher quality) measure their lifts after vehicle weight has been applied to the springs.
Ok cool. Ya I know on mine I got exactly 3" in front, my measurement from ground to highest point on my fender was 39-1/8", and now it measures 42-1/8". From ground to highest point on my rear fender is 41-7/8", so 1/4" lower in back, if that's a proper way to measure...I posted this in another thread but no one is responding...The rear has a 3" tall block that replaced the factory block. Would I be able to replace that with a 4-5" block in the back, so I would sit 3/4" to 1-3/4" higher in back, if I replace the shocks? So it will handle heavy loads better? Or will it mess with the front suspension somehow if I do that?


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