buster096

Get a raptor take off rear axle. Or get a custom 9" built but that's gunna get pricey quick.

WarSurfer

That means you just bolt it in, hook up the brake lines and abs sensors and hit the road.

I've seen stockers go for as low as 1k and you can recoup some of that by selling your assembly.

IIRC the raptor unit is 3" wider per side.

Eco-BEAST 28

Thank you, ill be on the look out then!

avvblanc01

awesome thread! this should help out a ton of people

WarSurfer

I wanted to update the thread since I've got a couple free minutes...

Here are a couple examples of what's out there to upgrade your front suspension (all are MT or sub 17"). Even though the RPG and Camburg kit are marketed toward the Raptor, they will absolutely bolt on to a non-Raptor (09-up) and can be used on 04-08 with some minor modifications.

Keep in mind, both the RPG and Camburg lowers can be ordered as a single or dual setup - meaning run 1 or 2 shocks per side up front (1 coilover or 1 coilover & 1 bypass). You will need longer tie rods and brake lines if adding these to a non-Raptor and longer axle shafts if you have 4wd.

09-up:

RPG lower set up to run dual 3.0's...



http://www.rpgoffroad.com/lower-control-arms/

here is a Camburg lower as well... This is what's on my Raptor but I have the dual version (same but with provision for another bypass).


dual setup like mine:



http://camburg.com/store/front-suspe...lower-arm-kit/



for 04-08 specifically: TAP Auto, a forum vendor, sells these kits - extremely fair price given what the average price is for a MT kit...



https://www.f150forum.com/f61/dirt-k...wd-4wd-243902/


to restate my post earlier - setting up the rear is relatively easy - Deaver or National springs, LT shackles, a bump kit and some bypass shocks and you are pulling 16+ inches (mine is strapped at 16 to be safe and allow for strap stretch).

WarSurfer

There are numerous other vendors out there - Outlaw Offroad, SDHQ, Dixon Brothers, Brenthel, etc... but RPG and Camburg are the only one's to my knowledge that offer Raptor width Dual lowers - others offer 18" travel singles (2 or so inches wider than Raptor) or dual LT (4 or so inches wider than a Raptor) but these kits are outside the reach of most mortals - the SDHQ kit for example is 12k for just the hardware and shocks - with labor, axles, brake lines and misc you are @ 20k...

Eco-BEAST 28

Maybe you can help me out with a few additional questions i have that others may have as well.

As far as numbers go i believe they are as follows. Please note the prices come from buying all components we would need in order to convert. For example if you buy Raptor LCA you need UCA's as well?? Correct me if I'm wrong please WarSurfer:

RPG
Travel: 19" - NOTE: > Projected <
Width: +3.5" Per Side??
Shocks: 3.0" C/O X 3.0" Bypass
Bumpstop: ?
Price: Over $8000

SDHQ
Travel: 16.5"
Width: +2" Over Stock Raptor Width Per Side
Shock Sizes: 2.5" C/O X 3.0" Bypass
Bumpstop: Yes
Price: $6,495.00

Camburg
Same as SDHQ? ^
I can't find anything other then $2195 for just the lowers lol

Dirt King
Travel: 13.5"
Width: 3.5" Per Side Stock F150
Shock Sizes: 2.5" C/O
Bumpstop: No
Price: $3174

My dilemma is that i don't want to go over the stock Raptor 73.6" width in the front. Even with just the offset of rims i have now this truck feels WIDE so i really don't want to be going 5-6" wider per side like some kits have. I think this limits me to RPG, Dirt King, and maybe Camburg? With that info, as far as the front goes, can you let us know more about the Camburg kit?

What kind of travel numbers are those of us with already upgraded UCA's looking at in the front?

Am i really at much of a disadvantage by going with a kit that fits my current 2.5's vs upgrading to 3.0's in the front?

As far as the rear goes I've seen that adding LT shackles will actually lower the rear end by and inch or so? They are actually a reasonably priced item but how could i keep the rear level with the front without using blocks? I have a Deaver +2 Raptor Mini Pack on its way and was wondering what your honest opinion of doing a +3 Pack and then adding the LT Shackles so it evens it out? Is this even worth doing with 2.5's in the rear like i have now? If i go 3.0 will these simply bolt up using my current mounts? Can i run 2.5's up front and 3.0's in the rear until i save up enough for a full front end conversion?

Im really sorry about the myriad of questions i just threw at you but I've been stumped on these questions for quite some time now and can't decide or find the info. Im not doing as much high speed desert running as i used to but i still hit the trails at least once a week for my "Sunday Drive" and would appreciate a little more travel to take on the trails.

WarSurfer

Don't be sorry about asking questions, that's what the thread is for.

First thing first - RPG & SDHQ - those numbers are correct (as advertised - real numbers achieved I can only speculate) BUT they are not for the parts I listed. Those are the advertised travel numbers for each companies LT kits. The parts I showed in my post above are Raptor spec (width) and will only achieve ~14" of travel with front axles installed - you might be able to get another 1" or so without front axles. The travel number for the Dirt King MT setup is correct (even though they advertise it as a LT setup, it's MT).

You are correct, you need the appropriate UCA for whichever LCA you buy - IE, if you buy a Raptor spec lower, you need a Raptor spec upper. If you buy a Raptor +2 lower, you will need the matching upper and so on. I wouldn't worry to much about this though, the LTs are sold as kits with all matching parts anyway since they are typically fabricated either in house or from a dedicated vendor.

The Camburg and RPG lowers I posted are Raptor spec (factory Raptor width), you would need a Raptor spec upper to match. Alpha1 (Outlaw Raptor brand), ICON, Camburg and RPG all make Raptor spec uppers - my two favorites are the Alpha1 and ICON billet uppers but the tubular UNI's are good pieces also and much less expensive. I would have preferred the Alpha's but the uni wasn't sealed like on the ICONS and I live where they salt the roads...

You are correct - Raptor spec width limits you to RPG and Camburg (SDHQ also sells the Camburg lower but don't confuse it with their in house LT kit).

A UNI UCA typically gains our trucks about 1.5" of droop travel - meaning extra down travel, no impact on up travel. However, your UCA won't work with a Raptor spec lower.

technically (just so you understand) it's more than the difference between 2.5 and 3.0 - it's also a 8" stroke vs 10" stroke - they are physically longer as well as larger in diameter.

Honestly, if you aren't out in the dirt every weekend pushing the limits of your truck, you will probably never know the difference. Is there a difference, yes - does it matter for the vast majority of guys, no.

I beat the **** out of my Raptor so I went with max capability while staying within stock parameters - 14" of travel up front with dual 3.0s, 16" of travel out back with a 2.5" bump kit while retaining 100% of the bed functionality. My truck still retains 100% of it's factory utility (full disclosure, I chose to ditch the hitch but I could have kept it) yet is 10 fold more capable. You have to decide what your threshold is for 'performance' vs utility. You can turn your truck into a prerunner but then it's just about worthless for anything else.

LT shackles will lower the truck about an inch but will add that inch back in droop travel. In terms of 'leveling', you should have the ability to adjust your coilovers up or down for the ride/height you desire.

I have a Deaver +3 pack with a LT shackle - so yes, I would recommend it

You can absolutely swap out the 2.5 for 3.0s without changing anything OR you can run the 2.5s. Remember, the shocks control the deceleration of the suspension (hence the name, they control the 'shock' of suspension movement from an obstacle) - ergo a larger unit will outperform a smaller unit - if you run with an empty bed, the 2.5s are probably ok until you start running harder. LOTs of Raptor guys just add deavers or nationals and an RPG bump kit and leave the factory Raptor shocks on the rear. Believe it or not, some keep the fronts but swap in a heavier spring from Eibach and rave about the results - still not as good as a 3.0 but much better than factory.


This pretty much points to something like the Dirt King setup so you can increase your capability but retain the front coilovers you currently have. IIRC TAP Auto indicated that there is a 'modification' used to run the 8" stroke coilovers with the Dirt King kit - that 'should' mean that if you decide to upgrade to a 10" stroke 3.0 at a later date, you could remove the spacer or whatever its and bam! I'd call the guys at Dirt King and verify before I spent the money (like do they have a kit for your year group, able to use 10" stroke coilovers, etc...).

Hope this helps.

lbl77777

help guys! i have a 2000 f150 shortbox, 4 wheel drive. what do i need to purchase to get more front end travel for a smoother ride in rough fields and pastures?? currently have 4.10 gears and a 2 inch body lift and aftermarket torsion keys to lift the front end. concentric wheel spacers are allowing me to run 35 x12.50x17s on stock wheels

WarSurfer

http://www.dixonbrosracing.com/content/view/13/3/