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How do I determine my rear axle size

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Old 05-11-2009, 08:47 AM
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7700# = 7700 lbs GVWR In 1997 Ford had the old square shaped F series along with the then new 1997 model. The old square models had the full range of F series from the F-150 to the F-350 and F SuperDuty. Ford also offered the new style F-150 all the way up to the 6500 lbs GVWR and if you wanted more in that style you could get an F-250 LD in that style up to the 7700 lbs GVWR. The F250 LD continued up to 1999 when it became the F-150 with the 7700# option. On the tailgate you would see the F-150 emblem with 7700 underneath it if you ordered the 7700 lbs GVWR truck. 1999 was also the year that Ford introduced the new SuperDuty F-250 to F-550. In 1997 and 1999 you had to be carefull if you wanted parts for an F-250.

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Old 05-11-2009, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by driver444
I have the Truetrac in the rear of my '08,

Great for snow and most off-road situations.

the 9.75 is still relatively new (compared to the other 2), and certain easy lockers and such aren't available yet.

So my suggestion, For 99% of off road, and total on-road drivability, put TrueTracs in front and rear.
What vehicle is your 08...

What size motor/axle/gears...

What about the Truetrac on ice...

I was searching summit racing and found that they only carry the Truetrac for 8.8 axles in a Ford p/u... I seems like JMC was saying that any new 5.4L f-150 will have 8.8 front and 9.75 rear...

I was thinking of putting an e-locker in the front of what ever I get and a TrueTrac in the rear...

I have no real experience in a 4wd truck...however, I have done tons of 4-wheeln in my rhinos... spooled rear... 2wd/4wd/4wd-locked electric...having the spooled rear in 2wd is awesome off-road...the front rarely gets locked...never been stuck...

Another thing to consider is that my wife's Toyota mini-van with front wheel drive and street tires does better on ice than my 2wd l/s 3.73...

I have been stuck so many times in my truck in sand/mud/ice (does fine in shallow snow) it's not funny...

So when I total up my experiences plus what I know I want my 4wd for I would opt for the full time truetrac in the rear for superior traction in 2wd and knowing if I can't get enough traction in the front with 4wd that I can lock up the axle that has the weight on it...especially for uphills on ice and in reverse...

Right now I have the 12-bolt, 7-lug, (presumably 10.25" axle) 3.73 L/S in my 2wd f-150...the last time I was stuck bad enough I couldn't get myself out was in Feb in the snow off-road...was pointed downhill...got the front tires buried in snow and the rears on ice...both wheels were spining but no traction try to back up hill on ice...a locked rear would have done me zero good...however, with a L/S rear and locked front 4wd I know I could have plowed forward and kept on truckin'... and that's what I want...

I have had numerous similiar situations in sand and mud where both my rears were turning but had to be pulled out...again...I know I could have pulled through with locked fwd....

Still...I haven't owned or used these products so I appreciate any and all help...
Old 05-12-2009, 07:55 AM
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My "'08" is a spercab 6.5' bed, with 5.4, and 3.55 gears. I have the 9.75 Truetrac rear, 8.8 front axle (soon to be a Truetrac as well), and 285-70-17 BFG All-Terrains.

So you see what I mean when I said "if you get stuck with a truetrac, you'd probably be stuck with a locker too." If both wheels are spinning and you're not moving, it doesn't matter what you have.

I think you may be confusing the Truetrac with the Detroit locker though. The Truetrac works better than anything I've ever had in snow and ice. Yes, it will throw you sideways if you mash the gas (just like the factory limited slip). An open differential will usually not, because one wheel doesn't spin, and that one keeps you straight. The Truetrac will handle pretty much like any other limited slip, except, you won't feel the clutches "break away" when you turn, or get traction with one tire and not the other. The Truetrac does supply power to each wheel, but it "adjusts" to the torque being applied, and to which wheel will get it, and does all this without you realizing it. There are no clutches to wear out.

The Detoit locker like in my 96 F-350 is fully locked all the time, except it unlocks when you go around turns, and relocks when you straighten out. They work great in snow "IF" you remember its there. Any application of the gas pedal in snow or ice WILL spin both tires, and WILL throw you sideways if you're not careful, BUT, you WILL have absolute 100% lockup, and unmatched traction in every situation, no matter what. Like I said, when you have a locker, you need to remember it's there. Not the case with the Truetrac.

I would suggest for you, and just about anybody else, For the most driveability, smoothness, and function. Go Truetrac in the rear. The locker is for rock crawling and the most extreme situations. A front and rear Truetrac will get you through ANYTHING. (far more than a factory limited slip). In the situations you were in, both wheels would've been turning with the truetrac. The E-locker is a great product too, but kinda pricey, and wires=malfunction potential. But remember, never put a locker in the front unless it can be turned off.

Last edited by driver444; 05-12-2009 at 08:02 AM.
Old 05-12-2009, 10:02 AM
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With the 1997 trucks the front axle stays engaged on the driver side. A locker in this situation will turn the front driveshaft all the time. With the 04+ models the front hubs disengage so this will not happen However with both truck when you engage 4x4 on the street you will have power to all the wheels. On slippery surfaces you will tend to understeer. Remember this and you will be fine. We wouldn't want to be going down the highway at 70 mph in 4x4 and continue in a straight line around a curve. Besides if you still need 4x4 at that speed you are going too fast.
Old 05-12-2009, 10:08 AM
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Just an after thought. I sometimes use 4x4 in the rain to start off from a light. When I mash the gas in 4x4 I get torque steer but sometimes all the wheels get to spinning and I have no steering control at all.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
Old 05-12-2009, 03:34 PM
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driver444
My "'08" is a spercab 6.5' bed, with 5.4, and 3.55 gears. I have the 9.75 Truetrac rear, 8.8 front axle (soon to be a Truetrac as well), and 285-70-17 BFG All-Terrains.
Thanks, it's good to know the truetrac is available for the 9.75 even though summit didn't have it...
So you see what I mean when I said "if you get stuck with a truetrac, you'd probably be stuck with a locker too." If both wheels are spinning and you're not moving, it doesn't matter what you have.
Yes...my point is that I prefer to have the front open for steering most of the time and fully locked when max traction is needed on the front axle where the weight is...especially backing uphill on ice...
I think you may be confusing the Truetrac with the Detroit locker though.
No sir, not at all.
The Truetrac works better than anything I've ever had in snow and ice.
Thank you, I am more convinced than ever that it what I want on the rear...
Yes, it will throw you sideways if you mash the gas (just like the factory limited slip). An open differential will usually not, because one wheel doesn't spin, and that one keeps you straight.
Precisely why I want an open front unless max traction is required...hence the e-locker...
The Truetrac will handle pretty much like any other limited slip, except, you won't feel the clutches "break away" when you turn, or get traction with one tire and not the other.
This confuses me...maybe because my limited slip in on a heavy duty 2wd and I am not familiar with quirks of limited slip 4wd trucks...
The Truetrac does supply power to each wheel, but it "adjusts" to the torque being applied, and to which wheel will get it, and does all this without you realizing it. There are no clutches to wear out.
Thank you...I was aware of that from reading your's and other's posts which is why I am more or less assuming I am going to get one...
The Detoit locker like in my 96 F-350 is fully locked all the time, except it unlocks when you go around turns, and relocks when you straighten out. They work great in snow "IF" you remember its there. Any application of the gas pedal in snow or ice WILL spin both tires, and WILL throw you sideways if you're not careful, BUT, you WILL have absolute 100% lockup, and unmatched traction in every situation, no matter what. Like I said, when you have a locker, you need to remember it's there. Not the case with the Truetrac.
You are preaching to choir on this one... lol... would never consider a Detroit locker for my application...
I would suggest for you, and just about anybody else, For the most driveability, smoothness, and function. Go Truetrac in the rear.
Yes, that is exactly what I plan to do...
The locker is for rock crawling and the most extreme situations.
Yep, if you noticed I have thousands of miles doing that in a rhino...selectable locked front with spooled rear...being able to lock the front when stuck by pushing a button is awesome...so I disagree with your earlier assesment that it doesn't matter what you have...again...only having it when it's needed is well proven to me...the catch for me is knowing the mechanical details of the vehicles I am considering getting...
A front and rear Truetrac will get you through ANYTHING. (far more than a factory limited slip).
Okay, the problem as I see it is that I haven't experienced the truetrac in the front and would prefer to have it open until selected...I don't doubt your overall assesment however....
In the situations you were in, both wheels would've been turning with the truetrac.
Yes, problem was no 4wd and I know absolutely I could have plowed though with a locked front even w/o rear wheel drive from all my experiecnce with the rhino and other front wheel drive vehicles...
The E-locker is a great product too, but kinda pricey, and wires=malfunction potential. But remember, never put a locker in the front unless it can be turned off.
Yes, the e-locker will only get turned on when needed...they are not cheap...however, it's not a huge amount of money compared to what it can do for you

JMC...

With the 1997 trucks the front axle stays engaged on the driver side. A locker in this situation will turn the front driveshaft all the time. With the 04+ models the front hubs disengage so this will not happen However with both truck when you engage 4x4 on the street you will have power to all the wheels.

This is one of those times when the more I learn the more I realize I don't know anything... lol...

Going to look at a 2001 Screw 4x4 5.4L tommorow...has tow package with l/s 3.73 gears...

Not sure what size axles that will have...completey ignorant of the changes between years etc...

Can you or anyone else clue me in on what all that year has and the pros and cons of that model specifically with regard to 4wd and aftermarket products etc...

For example...I don't know what year ford started putting IFS on 4wd trucks...I know the 09s have it...

Also, can you give more information about the front diffs, transfer cases, drive axles, drives shafts etc...

Pardon my ignorance but I am not sure I understand everything you said above...but very interested...

Particularly interested in any details of the pros/cons of pre-04 vs post 04 4wd... https://www.f150forum.com/showthread...949#post189949

Thanks again...

Last edited by henry4rd; 05-12-2009 at 03:48 PM.
Old 05-13-2009, 07:48 AM
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Don't be surprised if you find a 10.25" rear under that '01 supercrew. That's pre-9.75.

As far as IFS, the 1980-1996 had twin-traction-beam (IFS) suspension. Very Very strong, many options available for these axles, but difficult to keep in alignment. The front axles were DANA 44's, and the rears (up to 86 I think) were 8 or 9 inch Fords, or Dana's. After 1986 they were mostly Dana 60's and Ford 8.8's (depending on GVW, engine etc.) These were the trucks that in the old Ford comercials, they'd put a Chevy on the back of the Ford, and drive it up this rocky mountian. They don't (can't) make commercials like that anymore!!!

1997 came with torsion-bar IFS with vacuum operated center disconnect front axles in front, and 8.8's and 10.25's in the rear.

My favorite Ford's will always be the 1980-1996 body style, but these days, that's comparing apples to oranges. They were a real truck back then. They rode like stage coaches, but would carry anything, and last forever. They had almost none of the creature comforts they have now And cupholders??? What are they??
Old 05-13-2009, 09:35 AM
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Cupholders...lol...

Yes I hear you loud and clear... I had among many other 2wd trucks a 1956 1 ton w/ 4.56 gears, originally it was a v-8 hydro, converted to a 292 I6 with manual 3sp + granny...

And as you can see the 1/2 ton I have now is not the caddilac commuter version...in 2000 when I got it...I could put 3,000 pounds of tile in the bed...and another 3,000 lbs on a utility trailer...w/ no trailer brakes...no sag...no lag...no problem...

As you can see too I have toughed it out off-road all these years in 2wd digging myself out etc rather than buck up and pay extra for stinkin' 4wd...lol...

In my old age I am not the hard *** I once thought I was lol...

I ain't goin nowheres with out at least on cup holder...and it has to be a biggin...

Okay...when I say IFS it's my ignorance...what I really mean is a-arms...

So now back to details...

If I get an 00-03 f-150 4wd screw...5.4L w/ tow package... either 3.55 or 3.73 ls...do you guys think it will have a 10.25 rear axle and will that preclude me from having a Truetrac on the rear...

Do I need to hold out for an 04+...???
Old 05-13-2009, 09:57 AM
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Just so we are clear on a few things. The 9.75 appeared in 1997 on all the trucks with the 5.4 engine except for the F-250 Light duty. The F-250 LD was an F-150 body on a slightly bigger, read stronger,frame and the 10.25 rear diff. The torsion bars and the rear leaf springs were also of a higher rating. The wheels had 7 lugs not 5. There was and F-250 badge on the truck instead of an F-150. In 1999 Ford dropped the F-250 badge and put an F-150 badge back on the truck with a 7700 under it to indicate the higher GVWR. Except for the badge the F250 and the F150 7700 are the same truck. In the 1997 to 2004 Heritage models look for 7 lug nuts to see if you have the 10.25 differential.

EDIT to add: Obviously the 4x2 had coils in front and they were of a higher rating for the F-250LD and F-150 7700.

Last edited by TheJMC; 05-13-2009 at 10:08 AM.
Old 05-13-2009, 10:13 AM
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I just realized you want info on the A arms. Again with the 1997 - 04 Heritage models. The 4x2 had a different frame and used stamped steel A arms and coil springs. The 4x4 uses a cast iron A arm with a pocked cast to accept the hex shape of the torsion bar. That frame had a bolted on crossmember that served as a mounting point for the front differential.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier


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