Front Axel swap, supension question
07-20-2012, 09:30 PM
#1
Rick. TAMPA BAY
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Front Axel swap, supension question
I have a '95. gonna be putting in d44s front and rear. i was just wondering if anybody has does a solid axel swap and how they did it. what did you pull the leaf springs off of? what kinda shocks, sizes on springs , shocks, blocks, shackles, etc. any info is appreciated
07-21-2012, 12:21 AM
#2
Glock+Ford=Lethal Combo
Yes. I did a SAS on a 96 Ford Bronco and you have a lot of work ahead of you.
First off:
A dana 44 wont work on the rear end unless you fab up a VSS and on tone ring. The truck will not have cruise control or shift without it.
The best axle to swap in to the rear is a Sterling 10.25. They are 1-ton, have the need VSS plug in, easy to find, cheap, and you can buy a wide variety of differentials (lockers, R&P, etc.)
The front I used a Dana 44HD from a 78 F250. If you do in fact swap the rear axle it will be 8 on 6.5 pattern. So you will need an 8 on 6.5 pattern up front unless you like carrying two spare tires. The 78 Dana 44HD is the perfect axle in that it has 8 on 6.5 lug pattern, 1/2" pipe WT, leaf pads, and all you need to do in order to flip the u-bolts is notch a little webbing on the casting. Just remember though a Dana 44 is not and will never be a Dana 60. If you are rock crawling or running a tire larger than 37" I would suggest getting a D60 from a 78 or 79 F350. The 78-79 F350 is 8 on 6.5 pattern, has king pins instead of ball joints, and in a very stout axle. However good luck finding one. The rock crawling guys have scooped a lot of these up. Even if you can find one, expect to pay $2500 for a 30-33 year old axle that will require a complete tear down and rebuild. A lot of people arent expecting to invest 3000-5000 on a one ton front axle.
Next are the leaf springs: You can use any 2 leaf pack from a 80-97 Ford F350. What I did was welded on front spring hangers over the crumple zones with a x-member in between them. I then added spring hangers so I could do a shackle reversal. You DO want the shackle on the rear side of the front axle. Its a much better ride.
Another option depending on your fab skills, you can use 56" leaf springs off the rear of a Full Size Blazer. They flex well, are cheap, and make for a softer ride and more flex than the Ford leafs.
Other things to consider. Run a front 1350 u-joint and swap the yoke out to 1350.
In order to avoid death wobble you will want to fab up high steer. You get to keep your stock pitman arm, run a bar parrellel to the passenger side knuckle, and connect to a high steer arm that can be easily installed on the knuckle. Along with that you can ream out the top of the tie rod mount and install the tie over the knuckle which raises the tie rod up about 4"s It makes the bottom of the axle the first item a rock hits instead of a tie rod.
I could type all night. Its worth it when it done but you will need to weld, cut steel, use a tape measure, and spend a chunk of cash to get there. I hope you do your research before you consider it.
If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. Ive done several axle swaps and I am very familiar with the process, the part number, axle BOM's, etc.
Good luck
First off:
A dana 44 wont work on the rear end unless you fab up a VSS and on tone ring. The truck will not have cruise control or shift without it.
The best axle to swap in to the rear is a Sterling 10.25. They are 1-ton, have the need VSS plug in, easy to find, cheap, and you can buy a wide variety of differentials (lockers, R&P, etc.)
The front I used a Dana 44HD from a 78 F250. If you do in fact swap the rear axle it will be 8 on 6.5 pattern. So you will need an 8 on 6.5 pattern up front unless you like carrying two spare tires. The 78 Dana 44HD is the perfect axle in that it has 8 on 6.5 lug pattern, 1/2" pipe WT, leaf pads, and all you need to do in order to flip the u-bolts is notch a little webbing on the casting. Just remember though a Dana 44 is not and will never be a Dana 60. If you are rock crawling or running a tire larger than 37" I would suggest getting a D60 from a 78 or 79 F350. The 78-79 F350 is 8 on 6.5 pattern, has king pins instead of ball joints, and in a very stout axle. However good luck finding one. The rock crawling guys have scooped a lot of these up. Even if you can find one, expect to pay $2500 for a 30-33 year old axle that will require a complete tear down and rebuild. A lot of people arent expecting to invest 3000-5000 on a one ton front axle.
Next are the leaf springs: You can use any 2 leaf pack from a 80-97 Ford F350. What I did was welded on front spring hangers over the crumple zones with a x-member in between them. I then added spring hangers so I could do a shackle reversal. You DO want the shackle on the rear side of the front axle. Its a much better ride.
Another option depending on your fab skills, you can use 56" leaf springs off the rear of a Full Size Blazer. They flex well, are cheap, and make for a softer ride and more flex than the Ford leafs.
Other things to consider. Run a front 1350 u-joint and swap the yoke out to 1350.
In order to avoid death wobble you will want to fab up high steer. You get to keep your stock pitman arm, run a bar parrellel to the passenger side knuckle, and connect to a high steer arm that can be easily installed on the knuckle. Along with that you can ream out the top of the tie rod mount and install the tie over the knuckle which raises the tie rod up about 4"s It makes the bottom of the axle the first item a rock hits instead of a tie rod.
I could type all night. Its worth it when it done but you will need to weld, cut steel, use a tape measure, and spend a chunk of cash to get there. I hope you do your research before you consider it.
If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. Ive done several axle swaps and I am very familiar with the process, the part number, axle BOM's, etc.
Good luck
07-21-2012, 12:23 AM
#3
Glock+Ford=Lethal Combo
Oh and shocks. Buy shocks last. Use these shock towers http://coloradok5.com/ranchoshockreview/f250towers.jpg off of a F250
I used everything from Rancho 9000's to MX6 reservoirs, etc. I liked the MX6 reservoirs the best. They had 12" of travel, they mounted body side up, and when you adjust them they adjust compression and rebound.
I used everything from Rancho 9000's to MX6 reservoirs, etc. I liked the MX6 reservoirs the best. They had 12" of travel, they mounted body side up, and when you adjust them they adjust compression and rebound.
07-21-2012, 12:26 AM
#4
Glock+Ford=Lethal Combo
A really good site to get information is
www.fullsizebronco.com I used to be a member there but after I sold my Bronco and after the original owner sold the site it got really douchey so Ive stepped away. There is a ton of write ups so hopefully you wont need to post questions. They arent as harsh as POR but they can get preachey and become ****ing douchebags quick.
www.fullsizebronco.com I used to be a member there but after I sold my Bronco and after the original owner sold the site it got really douchey so Ive stepped away. There is a ton of write ups so hopefully you wont need to post questions. They arent as harsh as POR but they can get preachey and become ****ing douchebags quick.
07-21-2012, 04:50 PM
#5
Senior Member
You can also use the coil spring 44 from a seventies f150 or bronco, and it wil flex good on the trails, especially with longer radius arms, and much less fab work than leaf springs.
The 8.8 ford is a strong rear axle, and the front is already a 44 just an ifs version, and the ttb works great for alot of 4wheeling, especially if you like going fast.
The 8.8 ford is a strong rear axle, and the front is already a 44 just an ifs version, and the ttb works great for alot of 4wheeling, especially if you like going fast.