CV Shaft replacement
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
CV Shaft replacement
Hello everyone!
Just wanted to get some feed back knowledge.
I have a 2013 F150 King Ranch 4WD and just installed a 2" Hell Bent Steel level kit (Spacers). I guess i made a small split in the driver side Outer CV Boot and it has been throwing grease. (Small split, only drove it maybe 300 miles.) So I purchased and replaced the entire CV Axle assembly myself.
All went well but there is a split ring/C Clip that is supposed to snap inside the transmission side. I never felt a "Snap" or indication that it was inserted completely. I even put the Spline nut on the spline bolt a few threads, held the axle horizontally pushed to compress the spring joint then tapped on the Spline nut with first, a rubber mallet then used a 2 lb mall to "tap on it being careful not to beat it to hard. Once i felt that it wasn't going any deeper i stopped, removed the spline nut and continued the putting everything back together.
Everything fit well but, on the inside end where it seals at the transmission, it looks and feels like there is about a 1/4" separation/gap. I looked at the passenger side and it seams it had the same "gap" I hope it's seated completely...
It is NOT leaking any transmission fluid while running, so that's good...
I also drove around the neighborhood, made shape turns left and right and put it in and out of 4wd while driving... no noise or issued. So I'm guessing it is seated all the way...? fingers crossed..
One last thing; when I removed the old Axle, the "fluid inside if the socket (I'm guessing its transmission fluid) looked to be just a little Milky, not solid white but it was a little milky colored. Is that normal? (I know water and oil turns milky Any knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated.
Just wanted to get some feed back knowledge.
I have a 2013 F150 King Ranch 4WD and just installed a 2" Hell Bent Steel level kit (Spacers). I guess i made a small split in the driver side Outer CV Boot and it has been throwing grease. (Small split, only drove it maybe 300 miles.) So I purchased and replaced the entire CV Axle assembly myself.
All went well but there is a split ring/C Clip that is supposed to snap inside the transmission side. I never felt a "Snap" or indication that it was inserted completely. I even put the Spline nut on the spline bolt a few threads, held the axle horizontally pushed to compress the spring joint then tapped on the Spline nut with first, a rubber mallet then used a 2 lb mall to "tap on it being careful not to beat it to hard. Once i felt that it wasn't going any deeper i stopped, removed the spline nut and continued the putting everything back together.
Everything fit well but, on the inside end where it seals at the transmission, it looks and feels like there is about a 1/4" separation/gap. I looked at the passenger side and it seams it had the same "gap" I hope it's seated completely...
It is NOT leaking any transmission fluid while running, so that's good...
I also drove around the neighborhood, made shape turns left and right and put it in and out of 4wd while driving... no noise or issued. So I'm guessing it is seated all the way...? fingers crossed..
One last thing; when I removed the old Axle, the "fluid inside if the socket (I'm guessing its transmission fluid) looked to be just a little Milky, not solid white but it was a little milky colored. Is that normal? (I know water and oil turns milky Any knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Senior Member
transmisson fluid shouldn't be milky, it should be nice and red... i advise you to do a tranny flush or at best pan drop/filter change
for your cv axle, for the most part you should know when it's in.. what i like to do is give it a few tugs to try and pull it out.. the c-lip sits in a grove in the spines..
so as long as you gave it a good push in and a few taps.. i think you will be fine.. if it wasn't a hassle i'd say try tugging on it
for your cv axle, for the most part you should know when it's in.. what i like to do is give it a few tugs to try and pull it out.. the c-lip sits in a grove in the spines..
so as long as you gave it a good push in and a few taps.. i think you will be fine.. if it wasn't a hassle i'd say try tugging on it
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
transmisson fluid shouldn't be milky, it should be nice and red... i advise you to do a tranny flush or at best pan drop/filter change
for your cv axle, for the most part you should know when it's in.. what i like to do is give it a few tugs to try and pull it out.. the c-lip sits in a grove in the spines..
so as long as you gave it a good push in and a few taps.. i think you will be fine.. if it wasn't a hassle i'd say try tugging on it
for your cv axle, for the most part you should know when it's in.. what i like to do is give it a few tugs to try and pull it out.. the c-lip sits in a grove in the spines..
so as long as you gave it a good push in and a few taps.. i think you will be fine.. if it wasn't a hassle i'd say try tugging on it
That makes my a lot more confident that it is correct. And I will do a transmission flush. I just am wondering where the water is coming from,,?
#4
Senior Member
There shouldn't be trans fluid in the front differential. 75w-90 gear oil. It if the oil is indeed milky, I'd change it out. Also, check the front differential vent hose for blockage. If restricted, condensation can develop from it's inability to breathe properly. There is no communication of fluids between the trans, transfer case, or the drive axles. I don't see why a trans fluid change would be needed in this case. Wouldn't hurt to inspect them all though.
Last edited by redneck wrencher; 05-07-2016 at 10:43 AM.
#5
Senior Member
There shouldn't be trans fluid in the front differential. 75w-90 gear oil. It if the oil is indeed milky, I'd change it out. Also, check the front differential vent hose for blockage. If restricted, condensation can develop from it's inability to breathe properly. There is no communication of fluids between the trans, transfer case, or the drive axles. I don't see why a trans fluid change would be needed in this case. Wouldn't hurt to inspect them all though.
I'd inspect all fluids, transmission, front diff/rear diff etc... how many miles on this thing?
also depending on the fluid most gear oil is brownish and stinky~!
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
correct, if you've been off roading as well and submerged the front diff, that could be were the milky fluid came from...
I'd inspect all fluids, transmission, front diff/rear diff etc... how many miles on this thing?
also depending on the fluid most gear oil is brownish and stinky~!
I'd inspect all fluids, transmission, front diff/rear diff etc... how many miles on this thing?
also depending on the fluid most gear oil is brownish and stinky~!
Maybe I should inspect my Vaccume Lines?? Condensation?