Confused on Recovery Straps
#11
Senior Member
Use a dog bone connection. Quick, slick and you can use almost anything such as a big screwdriver, hammer handle or a tree branch.
#12
Senior Member
^ i'm not sure my screwdriver would pull a stuck, 5,000 lbs truck... care to elaborate?
#13
Senior Member
If you google something like "dog bone recovery strap" you'll find images that are very self explanatory and beat any rambling description I could type. Its one of those things that's hard to put into words but easy to grasp when you see it. Its a cool little trick that a lot of people don't know and usually smack themselves in the forehead with the heel of their hand the first time they see it. It also allows you to shorten the effective length of the strap as desired and/or form a bridle to use both tow hooks for a centered pull.
Last edited by PerryB; 02-14-2016 at 12:57 AM.
#14
Senior Member
First, do not use the trailer hitch ball for recovery. It "can" be sheered off.
Second, the dog bone idea is cute, but you don't need it. For years (decades), what has worked is simply push the end loop of the recovery strap into your receiver and put the hitch pin through the loop - Done! yank away...
Second, the dog bone idea is cute, but you don't need it. For years (decades), what has worked is simply push the end loop of the recovery strap into your receiver and put the hitch pin through the loop - Done! yank away...
#15
Senior Member
Yeah thats nice if you're pulling from the rear. Cute even. I'm talking about a way to use a closed loop without threading the entire length of the strap through itself as mentioned a couple posts back. Also its pretty hard to use the receiver if you have a 3or4 inch strap.
#16
Member
For the OP, this is the Field Manual is used in teaching the Army Recovery School. It should help in figuring mired vehicle factors assisting you with purchasing the proper recovery gear and safe recovery techniques as well.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/FM20-22.pdf
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/FM20-22.pdf
#17
Senior Member
Yeah thats nice if you're pulling from the rear. Cute even. I'm talking about a way to use a closed loop without threading the entire length of the strap through itself as mentioned a couple posts back. Also its pretty hard to use the receiver if you have a 3or4 inch strap.
I use a 3" ARB 30ft strap. No issues. F150s don't need a 4" if you buy a good quality strap. My 3" is good for 11,000kg (c.23,000lbs). It's really good to have the proper gear for the job.
The following users liked this post:
sigma pi (02-16-2016)
#18
Senior Member
What are peoples thoughts on the tow hook ball hitch? I see most people go with the D ring option. The only advantage to the D ring is it prevents the strap from falling off right? Being that live in MN where winters can be tough I want to get a recovery strap and a tow hook so I dont have to unthread a D ring in the cold winter.
#19
Senior Member
With the curve and angle of the hook I dont really see how the rope can slip off the hook. Unless you are pulling someone on a higher grade than you...which I am assuming rarely happens the rope isnt going to slip off.
#20
Senior Member
In a ****** recovery(I believe this is right terminology) situation, a hook is not ideal, when you reverse to take another run it can slide off or on the edge. You would ideally want a shackle, rated for what your rope is rated for, something that stores energy is required for a ****** recovery.
In a tow recovery a hook can safely be used, as long as it is rated high enough to not be the weakest link, this differs from a ****** recovery in that the rope/Strap is pre-tensioned, and no running start is used.
In a tow recovery a hook can safely be used, as long as it is rated high enough to not be the weakest link, this differs from a ****** recovery in that the rope/Strap is pre-tensioned, and no running start is used.
The following users liked this post:
sigma pi (02-17-2016)