sigma pi

You know so cal is in a massive drought, but dont worry I solved it completely single handedly: I painted my first coat and it rained the day after, then its raining today, and suppose to rain this weekend.

So expect it next weekend lol

Yup, I have an ecoboost.

peyton331

just get a goal zero Yeti 150 and solar panel. I use it to charge phones at night, run a tent light, water pump for dishes/shower. thing lasts forever, I rarely use the solar charger as you can charge it via 12v and 110v. light weight and really small, I store it in the center console of my F1.

STingray1300

The Goal Zero is a nice unit. But remember, it is rated at 150Wh, not watts. That means you have 150 watts for 1 hour. 50 watts for 3 hours, etc... It is a nice idea as long as you don't expect to run too many appliances, or need it for long until you can charge it again. A good addition to a solar panel set up perhaps.

sigma pi

Ugh, doing research and there is a TON of stuff to learn. Apparently an AGM battery needs higher voltage to get fully charged. The charge controllers for those are more $$

peyton331

yes it is very easy to drain the yeti 150 but there are tons of bigger versions. bang for buck the yeti 150 is awesome . also works great when power is out at home.

sigma pi

Zamp Charge controller is what I have decided on. I was thinking a group 31 agm.

STingray1300

A Group 31 battery is almost 1 1/2" taller than a Group 34. Is there enough room for it to fit under the hood?

Neophyte

I am surprised no one has mentioned this yet or maybe I missed it.

Just buy a battery isolator. it is a high amperage relay. you can wire it through the trucks ignition and a secondary switch as well. the switch will disconnect the batteries when you want. and if you also signal it through the ignition they will automatically be disconnected anytime the key is off.

the switch would only really come into play if you completely drain your accessory battery bank. then you could disconnect the bank so it doesnt kill your starting battery before you can start the truck.

I believe they make computerized controllers to do this. but they are pricey i am sure. the way I have described should cost right around 100 dollars and once everything is in the most work you would have to do is flip a switch.

if you are interested let me know and I will send some links to equipment and can go more in detail of wiring it up.

I am new to the "overlanding" thing. but I used to do car audio and the same basic principles are used for battery banks on high powered systems.

sigma pi

I was going to weld on a tray to the frame underneath the cab or bed.

Feathermerchant

Just behind the rear wheel is a great place for a battery. Put it up high to keep it safe from road debris.