Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

There are other threads about this. I think the only solution was to wire everything to a constant power signal or push a button on the dash that stops the start/stop. Sorry I don't know which button for sure

Canuck_F150

Thanks for the response; I'm going to try without the capacitor first. Seems not all the trucks have the issue. If my audio shuts off ill cross that bridge when I get there

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

Good idea. Let us all know how it turns out

Majariwr

So now had a chance to sit in front drivers and passengers seats. Sub is installed behind rear seat on drivers side. Bass is definitely stronger on passenger side; i.e., across the cab from the sub but in unobstructed line (no seat back in the way). So much for bass being omnidirectional. Will try moving it to the middle to balance response to driver and passenger.

Canuck_F150

Got everything wired tonight and took it for a short drive. The auto start/stop only activated twice but everything kept running fine.

10" sub has quite a bit of jam with only 130W RMS going to it. Have the gain 1/2 way at the moment; gotta locate my DMM and set it properly.

turbo06

What amp did you go with as my amp shuts off when auto start cuts on. I think it has a lot to do with the amp.

white_dc

iTrader: (12)

Canuck, I have the same sub sitting in my garage. What amp did you use to power the sub?

TerryH22

FWIW, I have the Kicker Hideaway installed in mine and have never had any problem with the auto start/stop.

Johng3592

I want to thank SouthPaw for this thread. It lead to me installing a Kicker Hideaway in my 2014 Crew Cab. I'm experineced with electronics, but this is my first automotive install.

The Kicker add great fullness to the music and I'm enjoying the talents of folks like Entwhistle and Flea more than ever. A couple of comments:

The Kicker comes with a wiring harness with all wires of sufficient length to install as-is. I started out by ordering the install kit and spool of wire listed in the first post. Turns out I didn't need them. If anyone needs these supplies, email me. I'll sell them for 60% of new price.

The most valuable advice in the thread:

- The speaker wire color codes
- The trim removal tools - get them
- What panels to pull and where to look.
- how to fold down the seat- you can fold both sides down with this trick

Some of my lessons learned:

I'm a big guy but I couldn't pull the b-post covers by hand as instructed. I just took one of the removal tools and hooked it under the trim and pulled it out at the bottom. I only opened them up enough to get to the speaker wires, leaving the top engaged as there is a label indicating there are airbags near the top.

I used the pickup wires as included on the Kicker wiring harness, except I put each pair into my drill chuck and twisted them. I see no reason to upgrade this wire, as the source wire supplied by Ford is no better.

I got a little too confident in my knowledge of the cable trays, and tried to pull the front passenger side cover off just with my fingers. I ended up crackiing the cover in 2 places. Use the removal tools, or your fingers, more carefully.

And from Patpaget, the encouragement to run the power wire up the passsenger side was very usefull:

HOW TO RUN A POWER LINE UP THE PASSENGER SIDE:

You just run the power wire up the front & rear passenger side cable trays. At the front passenger footwell, there are 2 small panels between the footwell and the door at carpet level. You just find and edge to pull on and they pop out easily.

From the engine bay, look at the firewall in front of the glove compartment area for a very large rubber grommet/boot about 3" across that looks like it handles all of the wire for the cab accessories. It has an elbow molded in so the wire bundle exits downwards. Grab the top and gently wiggle and pull and it will come off the firewall.

Use a straightened coathanger to thread thru this hole from the engine side and gently feel it down at about a 45 deg angle until the end is resting on the carpet in the corner of the passenger footbay. You can then tape the power wire to the coat hanger and pull it up into the engine bay.

Once you have it in hand, look at the back of the big grommet. there is a molding hole almost all the way thru. You can punch this thru with a drill bit or nibble a cut thru from the front and shove the wire thru there. Then the grommet can go back in the firewall. If you are picky, a dab of sealant where the wire comes thru will close it off.

From here you can just tie wrap the wire up the right edge of the engine bay to the battery.

Johng3592

BTW - Since I cracked my right side front sill plate, does anyone have a source for discount parts? I checked Ford and their price on this little piece of ABS is $70.