poskwally

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...-amp-kits.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...cessories.html

Also, looks like you'll be OK with 8 gauge off the distribution block to each amp.

Edit: Looks like JL recommends a minimum of 4AWG for each amp. Stick with 4 gauge coming off the distribution block.

Edit again: This JL kit should fit the bill, if you don't mind the price tag. Designed for systems up to 1500W according to its specs.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...D-PCS2-2B.html

ls67nova

I just posted this in another thread regarding wire lol:

I ran 1/0 welding cable in my 67 Nova from the trunk mounted battery up to the starter and also for my grounds.. Not that it really matters for what you are doing because it's a totally different car lol, but I thought I'd chime in and say it isn't really that hard to run, but I did it all under the car. Making tight bends inside the cab will be tricky, which is why I went with some 4 gauge Kolossus wire (not sure I spelled that right) for my setup in my F150.

If you are using wire this big, I think the thing most overlooked is the connections. People spend a lot of time and money running heavy gauge wire, but don't maximize their connections.

I honestly believe the best method of battery connections, ground connections, fuse holder connections, and power distribution connections (basically..ANY connections for larger wire) are best off being the solder slugged non-crimp ring terminal type with adhesive lined double wall shrink tube. They makes a bullet proof connection every time. Those ring terminals work VERY well with MEGA Fuses ($3 each) and MEGA Fuse holders ($10 at O'Reilly's). They hide well under the hood too.

ls67nova

Ring Terminal Lugs:
http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!D...er-Lugs/p_1012

Solder Slugs:
http://www.delcity.net/store/Termina...r-Slugs/p_1036

Cut your wire shielding back to the proper length, drip some flux on the wire, drop the solder slug into the lug, heat it up, and push the wire in. Pretty easy and it WORKS.

poskwally

I agree, soldering makes the best connections possible. However, when buying amplifier wiring kits, usually the lugs are already installed on the battery side of the wire. Depending on the quality of that factory connection, this information would be useful if you want to reinforce/redo those connections or if you make your own "kit" from scratch.

pibi

Thank's for the replies. I'll look into making my own kit, that way I can save some money and it'll be the size I want.

king nothing

I didnt read through the whole thread, but I'll jump in here and say that a nice OFC 4 gauge like Knukonceptz Kollossus will be plenty for you. At the end of the day all the calculations in the world mean nothing in car audio. Unless you are an SPL competitor who is squeezing every last watt out of your system for somewhat prolonged periods of time, your amps will bever be putting out that 1000w, and if they ever do it will be for very short bursts. 1/0 is setious overkill for you.
Www.Knukonceptz.com has a nice 4 gauge OFC amp kit for around $55 or you can buy piece one together to get exactly what you need, probably cheaper

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

+1. Anything larger than 4 gauge is overkill and a bitch to work with. Please don't run the power cable under the truck.

king nothing

Actually, running the power wire under the truck is a viable option assuming it's done correctly, with flexible electrical conduit and a proper entry into the cab