what is the correct adapter for the sony NAV system in my 2012
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
what is the correct adapter for the sony NAV system in my 2012
So, I've found countless threads from people with the base system or with the 4.2 screen using the FRD24 which I believe this is the correct one here:
however, from what I've read it does not work with the nav units. Anyone have more concrete information?
all I need is a pass through like the PAC so the stock tweeters work, but can use it to splice into to hookup a LC6i rather than using it as a LOC so I dont have to hack into the stock wires.
EDIT: I really wanna get it figured out before i open up the back, since it takes long enough to pull the dash apart (from what I've read) I'd like to have everything on hand before I start.
Amazon.com : Pac Add-On Amplifier Interface With 24-Pin Connector - 2005-Up Ford Vehicles : Vehicle Audio Auxiliary Adapters : Car Electronics
however, from what I've read it does not work with the nav units. Anyone have more concrete information?
all I need is a pass through like the PAC so the stock tweeters work, but can use it to splice into to hookup a LC6i rather than using it as a LOC so I dont have to hack into the stock wires.
EDIT: I really wanna get it figured out before i open up the back, since it takes long enough to pull the dash apart (from what I've read) I'd like to have everything on hand before I start.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
So, I've found countless threads from people with the base system or with the 4.2 screen using the FRD24 which I believe this is the correct one here:
Amazon.com : Pac Add-On Amplifier Interface With 24-Pin Connector - 2005-Up Ford Vehicles : Vehicle Audio Auxiliary Adapters : Car Electronics
however, from what I've read it does not work with the nav units. Anyone have more concrete information?
all I need is a pass through like the PAC so the stock tweeters work, but can use it to splice into to hookup a LC6i rather than using it as a LOC so I dont have to hack into the stock wires.
EDIT: I really wanna get it figured out before i open up the back, since it takes long enough to pull the dash apart (from what I've read) I'd like to have everything on hand before I start.
Amazon.com : Pac Add-On Amplifier Interface With 24-Pin Connector - 2005-Up Ford Vehicles : Vehicle Audio Auxiliary Adapters : Car Electronics
however, from what I've read it does not work with the nav units. Anyone have more concrete information?
all I need is a pass through like the PAC so the stock tweeters work, but can use it to splice into to hookup a LC6i rather than using it as a LOC so I dont have to hack into the stock wires.
EDIT: I really wanna get it figured out before i open up the back, since it takes long enough to pull the dash apart (from what I've read) I'd like to have everything on hand before I start.
#5
Member
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I don't buy it. I've been looking at several places and I think the adapter will still work as a pass through. the Nav system still has the same connector as the lower end ones, so my money would be on that they are the same, or possible more wires than what the PAC has to offer (which I can rectify). With the three plugs on the back (not including the GPS) there is the long one that the PAC uses on the lower models, the video source in, and another one that I can not quite figure out yet (been searching for wire diagrams). I've got some speakers and an amp just laying around upstairs. I might just go ahead and buy one and try this out, but will be July before I do so.
And there is no way I can be the first one to attempt this, not with that many trucks on the road and that many people who might want to modify the stereo.
And there is no way I can be the first one to attempt this, not with that many trucks on the road and that many people who might want to modify the stereo.
#7
Member
I don't buy it. I've been looking at several places and I think the adapter will still work as a pass through. the Nav system still has the same connector as the lower end ones, so my money would be on that they are the same, or possible more wires than what the PAC has to offer (which I can rectify). With the three plugs on the back (not including the GPS) there is the long one that the PAC uses on the lower models, the video source in, and another one that I can not quite figure out yet (been searching for wire diagrams). I've got some speakers and an amp just laying around upstairs. I might just go ahead and buy one and try this out, but will be July before I do so.
And there is no way I can be the first one to attempt this, not with that many trucks on the road and that many people who might want to modify the stereo.
And there is no way I can be the first one to attempt this, not with that many trucks on the road and that many people who might want to modify the stereo.
Look at the following pic, if you have the same style connector as the 4.2" screen it will be like the white/black connector, if you have the same style as the red faced connector the PAC will work.
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Last edited by RLXXI; 05-21-2014 at 08:51 PM.
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
based on the install video from the sync lockpick, it does indeed have the red connector. so, going with the PAC. I also have a spare amp, speakers, and RCAs in the attic so I can test it to make sure it works right and see if it is indeed a full range signal. After that.... LC6i, new amp, and wiring the door speakers.... then contemplating a new sub. But I am getting ahead of myself.
#9
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Here is some info on the wiring. Everything I have read is that you need to hardwire.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...emium-sys.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...emium-sys.html
Last edited by Wyo11Scab; 05-22-2014 at 11:08 AM.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Wyo - thanks, I ran across that during my searches as well and looks like I will end up using it. I had planned to use the Audiocontrol LC6i or LC8i (still toying with the sub idea) to clean up the signals and get more power, but after talking to the CS agents they said the signal has to come POST-amp. If not using the audiocontrol stuff then taking it from behind the deck with a PAC for just RCAs should be fine. Sadly, now that I have been redirected by AudioControl I'll just be pulling the console and not the deck. Honestly though I am kinda happy because I didnt wanna take all that apart.
Thanks for the help though guys.
Thanks for the help though guys.