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The ultimate thread for the pac aoem-frd24/ post all info here for all to enjoy

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Old 09-29-2013, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jc0311
I bought this PAC unit, I was going to keep the factory head unit but I think I will get the pioneer p3300bt better. Can I still use this PAC unit in order not to splice the factory wiring or would I have to get something like this:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...sche-FDSR.html
Just get the correct wiring harness. The Pioneer already has low level outputs.
Old 10-08-2013, 04:47 PM
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I had one for sale. Thanks TK5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141083999474...84.m1555.l2649

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Old 10-28-2013, 04:47 PM
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How are people using a 5 channel with the PAC? Correct me if I am wrong but this provides 2 outputs and 5 channel requires 3....so how are people running a 5 channel?
Old 10-28-2013, 04:50 PM
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Also, how are people using the Alpine Power Pack with a stock HU? I like that idea. Does the PAC also allow you to keep steering wheel controls? And Finally do you guys use a signal processor (like the clean sweep) with the pac or would the cleansweep be used instead of? The SP is confusing me still.

Last edited by dyers78; 10-28-2013 at 05:09 PM.
Old 10-28-2013, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dyers78
How are people using a 5 channel with the PAC? Correct me if I am wrong but this provides 2 outputs and 5 channel requires 3....so how are people running a 5 channel?
The Pac provides 4 channels (front & rear) of output to an amplifier. Most 5 channel amps will work with 2 or 4 (front & rear) inputs and then produce 5 channels of output
Old 10-28-2013, 09:34 PM
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As Ford brought MyFord into the base audio systems in 2013 many aftermarket systems were left in the dust and have not caught up for some reason. ADI's Maestro RR for the Kenwood, the best aftermarket HU and interface system invented for the F150, doesn't work on the 2013 with MyFord. And, it appears the PAC does not work for the same reason. PAC website confirms this, and the photos of the adaptors mismatched prove it.




Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
This is a pic of my dash and as I posted before the PAC is not compatible.




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Attached Thumbnails The ultimate thread for the pac aoem-frd24/ post all info here for all to enjoy-pac.jpg  
Old 11-08-2013, 12:57 PM
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One more question I'm not understanding. I plan to run speaker wires from the amp back the HU and use the factory speaker wires to the front doors (replaced with components), Do I actually cut the front speaker wires on the PAC and connect them to the speakers wires coming off the amp...or do you "T" into them?

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the PAC use the signal from HU speaker outputs to create the signal for the RCA outs? If so, I'm thinking that if I cut them, I'm also cutting that signal out. Or am I incorrect?

Also, is everyone just cutting off the stupid molex connectors in the doors? Seems silly to spend money for connectors wen you can use bullet connectors to re attache later.
Old 11-08-2013, 01:12 PM
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I ran the wires from the amp directly to the doors instead of splicing into the PAC. You can drill a small hole in the side of the molex connector to run the wire through.
Old 11-08-2013, 06:38 PM
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Do I actually cut the front speaker wires on the PAC and connect them to the speakers wires coming off the amp...or do you "T" into them?


I would cut them
Old 11-08-2013, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyo11Scab
Do I actually cut the front speaker wires on the PAC and connect them to the speakers wires coming off the amp...or do you "T" into them?


I would cut them
You would need to cut the wires, just make sure you cut the correct ones. The speaker wires will come out of the stock stereo into the high low converter & then back into the factory harness to your speakers. This is so that the signal is uninterrupted so you can still power your door speakers with the factory deck & robs the signal from those wires to the high/low converter.
Cut the wires after the converter to run back to your 4 channel amp.


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