4shongo

Can you guys please post all the issues with the PAC AOEM-FRD24? I am close to deciding how to install my Kenwood 4 channel amp (2 channel to the front speakers/ 2 channels to a sub) but there is so much posted all over the internet about using our factory head units and installing an aftermarket amp. I will also be using the PAC LC-1 remote volume control to control my sub. I plan on using the wires going to the front speakers behind the HU. I will just run a separate set back to my amp and make the actual hook-up at the factory wires behind the HU. Here are my exact questions:

1. Please explain issues using the PAC (volume roll off issue)? Will the PAC LC-1 compensate for that?

2. Why am I reading so much about not being able to use the Sync (I know it is wired through the front speakers)? Is that just a wiring issue with the installer? Can it be done correctly? Anyone have an actual wiring digram they used?

I was hoping we could make this an all inclusive thread about this topic since it seems to be brought up every week but not alot of answers are really given. This is just the way I want to go to keep the cost down. Main reason for my install is because I already have the amp and sub and just want alittle low end. I will be making a custom box under the seat for my 12" shallow mount Pioneer sub.

Post up all the info you guys have so the useless searches can end. Thanks for the help.

easy smeasy

well i ordered my PAC AOEM-FRD24 yesterday, so i can let you know problems i have after the install. but what made my choice is the fact that its all plug and play. if i can stay away from splicing my factory wires, sounds like a win to me. in every other truck ive had, i just went to a local audio dealer and got them to install an input adapter. they've always just spliced the wires behind the head unit. i decided to try something new this time.

Chipsky

If you use the two sets of RCA outputs (instead of splicing wires) you won't have any Sync issues from the PAC unit. The factory harness couples the Sync signal into the front speakers. If you splice them away, you lose it. I can't think of a situation where you're splice the wiring of the harness or the PAC unit.

Replacing the factory head unit is another animal, but can be accommodated by the PAC unit as well. It all depends on the manufacturer.

I have not heard of any "volume roll off issues"... can you elaborate?

Tallyman89

I installed the PAC. No issues at all. No losing Sync. No volume rolling off. Very simple install. It has the remote power on included. No splicing or tapping needed at all. Very happy with it.

QWK SVT

Who has already spliced the wires on the PAC AOEM-FRD24, to use the stock wires to the door speakers?

I will be using one to install a 5ch amp in my 2011, but I have the molex connectors in the doors I figure I will run the RCAs back to the amp, then speaker wire from the amp to the PAC, tapping into the PAC wires that go to the factory harness and out to the doors. I want to make sure sync will still work, before I start cutting stuff up, though

Tallyman89

I am thinking of doing the exact same thing but with a 4ch amp.

1toraptor

i am having issues with the aoem-frd24 module. it seems that the output volume is constant and non relative to the HU volume. is that normal?

easy smeasy

i havent had one problem with my PAC yet

1toraptor

do you have the sony factory system in your truck?

jc0311

I bought this PAC unit, I was going to keep the factory head unit but I think I will get the pioneer p3300bt better. Can I still use this PAC unit in order not to splice the factory wiring or would I have to get something like this:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...sche-FDSR.html