mWags

Okay, I pulled the trigger today. Now I'll patiently wait....

Cadence FXA4100 Amp
Phoenix Gold RSD5cs Comp. Speakers
Alpine SWS-1023D 10" 2 ohm DVC Sub (I chose this sub because it's deeper than shallow amps but more shallow than most other subs)
Single 10" SubBox for ebay for $65.00 w/shipping.
Speaker Adapters from ebay
Metra 72-5600 wiring harness for doors (x2)
Still looking for an amp wiring kit preferably good and cheap.

I intend on splicing into the speaker wires behind the head unit and I'll probably just solder up the connections and maybe use some quick disconnects. I have a bunch of them laying around. I'll post back once I've finished or if I've screwed it up and need help.

Gatorb8, thanks for the help.

GATORB8

No problem, take a look at http://www.knukonceptz.com/ for an amp kit.

thenewblack09

if you get the subs and speakers you want you definently could minimize the rattling by simply turning the bass in your speakers down to about 2-3 and just let the subs handle the bass. i have alpine everything in my truck and they are the best subs/speakers/headunit i've ever owned. they are very durable. wouldnt discourage any of the things that you said you wanted to buy other then making sure your ohms on the sub and amp match up

GATORB8

He'll be able to remove the low frequencies from his components with the amp's crossovers.

mWags

I believe amp / sub do match wired in series as Gatorb8 describe in a previous post in this thread. I've had my eye towards cost thru this entire thing as most of my cash went into buying the truck. Hopefully, I'll end up w/a decent value system that sounds better than stock... Thanks for the thought about the bass I wouldn't have thought of that.

My next thing to read up on is how to adjust the amp properly to my taste. And what I need to know about the component speaker crossovers. Pretty sure I'm not going to use the rear speakers at all at this point at first to see how I like it.

I'm a little fuzzy on where to tap into the speakers at. 1.) behind the head unit or 2.) at the kick panels. I think w/my setup basic w/1 cd player it won't matter. I'm mentioning this w/the thought that I don't want to loose any of sync's capabilities.

GATORB8

Check with compcoder on where to tap the speaker wires to keep sync, he just did an install in his 09, IIRC he went for the kicks and was fine.

You will have separate gain and crossover control on the front channels of your amp and the rears (sub in your case). Look at the gain and crossover info here: http://www.bcae1.com/

Let me know if you have any questions.

compCoder

I tapped into the speaker wires fronts in the kick panels, and backs on the front door b-pillar. From there i ran the speaker wires to the back, through my LOC/OEM integration unit, then RCA to the amp, from the amp, ran speaker wire right back to where i spliced in, here is a link to the thread describing some more detail. I soldered and put heat shrink tubing on every connection, works great. Also, all factory stuff works just fine, sync, sirius, fade, balance, etc.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/finish...install-48496/

good luck

mWags

That was exactly what I was looking for. Guys I certainly appreciate the help.

I'm starting to get excited about this and obsessing on it a little.

mWags

Well I got the passenger side speaker installed today. I was surprised how well it sounded un-amped. An improvement over stocks. I shifted the balance from left to right so I could hear the difference. Stocks sounded muddy by comparison.

As far as intall goes the little black plate behind the interior door handle was the hardest thing to remove for me. Eventually I used a hook that's for peg board, taped it up with painters tape, and it popped the cover right off.

The metra adapter wasn't a perfect fit but it worked. Actually, the tweeter was a little too big for the adapter not metra's fault. I mounted the crossover under the switch panel. I'm not sure if there will be enough room to do that on the driver's side. We'll see....

I found the post here about removing the door panel very helpful. I printed it off and took it in the garage for reference. I would have never figured that out on my own.

mWags

Front component speaker intall done. 2nd door was easier than the first...



This was the "tool" (aka peg board hook) I used to remove the black plate from behind the door handle.