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Subs for my screw!

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Old 02-28-2012, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mechanicboy
I'm still tweaking the X-overs. There's a subsonic one too. As for slope... I don't know?

The subsonic filter is really helpful with ported boxes...not as much with sealed since sealed boxes stay controled even in the low low octaves. Usually i like to start with my lowpass set around 80 with a slope of 24db. The slope dictates how fast the frequency rolls off after the crossover slope.

for example...if you had a 80 lowpass setting with a 6 db slope, then you will be playing frequencies as high as 300hz at a higher lever then if you had the same crossover point with a 12bd, or steeper yet a 24db. The 24db slope would play 24db quieter at one octave higher then the crossover point. hope that made some sense.

Last edited by TimelessR1; 02-28-2012 at 12:25 PM.
Old 02-28-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TimelessR1
The subsonic filter is really helpful with ported boxes...not as much with sealed since sealed boxes stay controled even in the low low octaves. Usually i like to start with my lowpass set around 80 with a slope of 24db. The slope dictates how fast the frequency rolls off after the crossover slope.

for example...if you had a 80 lowpass setting with a 6 db slope, then you will be playing frequencies as high as 300hz at a higher lever then if you had the same crossover point with a 12bd, or steeper yet a 24db. The 24db slope would play 24db quieter at one octave higher then the crossover point. hope that made some sense.
OK. Well I have the subsonic at about 15 right now and I'm guessing(because there's no numbers other than full on/off) is between 85-95. I don't have slope control as far as I can tell.
Old 03-01-2012, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mechanicboy
Here it is. Subs were already installed but I'm going to buy some polyfil first and install it. How much do you think I should put in there?

The amp is a DX1000.1 and it was tested at 1112 RMS watts! More than I need.

The subs are CVT12, the new style.

What head unit are you running?
Old 03-01-2012, 05:40 PM
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Stock.
Old 03-01-2012, 05:49 PM
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You should of got polk audio 1240's I had the kickers but they didn't last so I put two 1240's in and never looked back. Here's my not so organized system.

Last edited by wasinger3000; 01-14-2013 at 09:15 PM.
Old 03-01-2012, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wasinger3000
You should of got polk audio 1240's I had the kickers but they didn't last so I put two 1240's in and never looked back. Here's my not so organized system.
Didn't last because you changed your mind or they blew up?
Old 03-01-2012, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mechanicboy
Didn't last because you changed your mind or they blew up?
They are ok subs, but the sound reproduction was terrible. They would bottom out like crazy even at a lower rms than they recommended. I expected them to be a little better but they fell short. I know they arent anything special but i was let down.

Im not trying to trash what you have, just saying i found a better replacement that is a shallow mount. These polk subs are truly amazing. So smooth and accurate. I had a w6 in my old 02 f150 and these two polks are more accurate and have almost the same bass out put.
Old 03-02-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mechanicboy
Stock.
What did you use to get the pre-outs to the amp?
Old 03-02-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by B1gfun

What did you use to get the pre-outs to the amp?
Since he's not answering ill chime in. I used the audio control lc2i and it works amazingly.
Old 03-02-2012, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by B1gfun
What did you use to get the pre-outs to the amp?
I cut the ends off the rca cable and soldered the wires directly to the stock speaker wire behind the deck. Make sure you get the polarity right if you do this.


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