lakers08

Simple question about speaker wiring relating to upcoming install...I'm adding the following: a processor, 4-channel amp, sub amp w/sub and replacing front speakers with components. I'm keeping the factory nav. head unit.

Do I run new wires from the four-channel to the front components or simply 'piggyback' (ie: extend the run) off the factory wires going to the Sony amp under the console?

Thanks in advance.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

So you are removing the factory Sony amp? Correct? You can use the existing wires going from the old Sony amp to your new speakers. I would also get speaker wire adapters to keep the install clean and easy to revert back to stock

GATORB8

x2, stock wiring should be fine for 100W RMS or so.

One thing to remember, from what I've seen on here, there is a cap (high pass crossover) on the stock tweeter wire that you may want to bypass. I think it's near the tweeter in the a-pillar, though.

The Doc

Does your stock Nav have RCA outputs? Most factory amplifiers run off a signal converter, ie line level converter. It's not going to be a plug and play thing.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

The Ford stock radios do not have RCA outputs

lakers08

I was not planning on removing the factory amp. Would it make things easier if I did?

I thought from all the threads I'd looked at, that people with a similar set-up just left it in.

As well, I'll use the existing speaker wiring for the doors and tweeters, but won't I have to run new wire from the 4-channel amp to the new external x-overs?

The Doc

Unless the amp you are installing accepts line level inputs (AKA speaker wire imputs) then you are going to have to run a line level input. Then you will have to run new speaker wire to the new speakers. It's not that difficult once you have a game plan. If I was doing this, and planning for the future (IE adding a sub amp down the road) I would take the factory nav out of the dash so you have access to the rear wiring harness for the stereo. It's easier to access all 4 pair of speaker wires via the rear wiring harness than to try to run additional speaker wiring to another place in the vehicle. Get a Hifonics MX3, connect wiring as directed, run your RCA's to the amp, and your speaker wires from the amp to the speakers. You can get the speaker wires run under the door sills, underneath the "kick panels" and thru the rubber wire boots on the doors. Just use a 12" section of wire coat hanger. Push the coat hanger thru the rubber boot (disconnect both sides of it off the door and cab) and use electrical tape to get the speaker wires thru the door and rubber boot. Pull the wiring through and connect up to the speakers. If you need any help, don't hesitate to let me know. I did installs for a few years before I joined the army.

GATORB8

Just watch out if your truck is made in Dearborn, they use molex connectors instead of boots that make it a PITA to run new wire to the doors.

lakers08

I bought a Jl 300/4, which apparently does accept line level inputs. I appear to have unwittingly made my life easier. That never happens.

Should I take out the factory amp or leave it in?

BTW, my truck was made at Dearborn but doesn't use Molex connectors through the doors. Maybe different for Canadian versions of the F150?

GATORB8

The factory Nav has a separate source than the head unit. Not sure if a processor like the cleansweep can combine radically different signals that well.

Does Nav just come out of your center channel?