Speaker installation for dummies.
01-09-2014, 10:57 PM
#1
Speaker installation for dummies.
I am looking at the sticky at the top and it's overwhelming. I am using the factory head unit on my 2011 f150. I was going to upgrade the HU to, but all the stuff that goes along with it, just isn't worth it.
So, as the thread title states, I don't quite understand. I know I have to get an adaptor to convert the speaker wire to a single the amp can use.
That's where I get lost. So...I put this adaptor in line with one of the rear speaker wires. Then I run the same speaker wire to the amp, then re-run all new speaker wires to the doors if I want to amplify them? Can I use the same wire? Can I just tap existing wire?
Also, do I have to power the amp straight from the battery? Or just use nearby available power?
1,000 watt amp
10" enclosed woofer (slim line)
4 6x8 kenwood 3 way door speakers.
Also, how hard is it to replace the door speakers? Does the whole panel come off? Or just a speaker cover? my speaker box fits under my seat "sort of" it stick out about 3-4 inches. I don't know if I need to move the jack stand holder out the way, or if it's the back of the truck stoping it (it has a lip about 1/2" to 1"). Could I still force it under there? Or do I need to lift my seats?
Here is the stupidest question of all. Does the woofer face up or down? Pretty sure up, but want to make sure.
Thanks in advance for any input. I can't seem to find the little bits of info I need to do this. So please excuse my ignorance.
So, as the thread title states, I don't quite understand. I know I have to get an adaptor to convert the speaker wire to a single the amp can use.
That's where I get lost. So...I put this adaptor in line with one of the rear speaker wires. Then I run the same speaker wire to the amp, then re-run all new speaker wires to the doors if I want to amplify them? Can I use the same wire? Can I just tap existing wire?
Also, do I have to power the amp straight from the battery? Or just use nearby available power?
1,000 watt amp
10" enclosed woofer (slim line)
4 6x8 kenwood 3 way door speakers.
Also, how hard is it to replace the door speakers? Does the whole panel come off? Or just a speaker cover? my speaker box fits under my seat "sort of" it stick out about 3-4 inches. I don't know if I need to move the jack stand holder out the way, or if it's the back of the truck stoping it (it has a lip about 1/2" to 1"). Could I still force it under there? Or do I need to lift my seats?
Here is the stupidest question of all. Does the woofer face up or down? Pretty sure up, but want to make sure.
Thanks in advance for any input. I can't seem to find the little bits of info I need to do this. So please excuse my ignorance.
01-09-2014, 11:13 PM
#2
I am looking at the sticky at the top and it's overwhelming. I am using the factory head unit on my 2011 f150. I was going to upgrade the HU to, but all the stuff that goes along with it, just isn't worth it.
So, as the thread title states, I don't quite understand. I know I have to get an adaptor to convert the speaker wire to a single the amp can use.
That's where I get lost. So...I put this adaptor in line with one of the rear speaker wires. Then I run the same speaker wire to the amp, then re-run all new speaker wires to the doors if I want to amplify them? Can I use the same wire? Can I just tap existing wire?
If you buy this adapter http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
It will convert your signal to RCA cables to supply your amp with signal. It will allow your stock stereo to power the door speakers. It installs behind the factory stereo. If you want to amplify the door speakers you will need to add an amp and run new speaker wire into the doors OR cut the stock speaker wires and splice the new speaker wires into the stock wires
Also, do I have to power the amp straight from the battery? Or just use nearby available power?
The amplifier needs to be powered directly from the battery. For a 1000w amp I would run 4ga wire
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KOL-AK4
1,000 watt amp
10" enclosed woofer (slim line)
4 6x8 kenwood 3 way door speakers.
Also, how hard is it to replace the door speakers? Does the whole panel come off? Or just a speaker cover? my speaker box fits under my seat "sort of" it stick out about 3-4 inches. I don't know if I need to move the jack stand holder out the way, or if it's the back of the truck stoping it (it has a lip about 1/2" to 1"). Could I still force it under there? Or do I need to lift my seats?
Is the box made for your truck? maybe post pics of the box. You will need to pull the door panels to replace the speakers. I havent had mine off yet but it shouldnt be too hard
Here is the stupidest question of all. Does the woofer face up or down? Pretty sure up, but want to make sure.
Depends on the box. some are made to fire down, some up
Thanks in advance for any input. I can't seem to find the little bits of info I need to do this. So please excuse my ignorance.
So, as the thread title states, I don't quite understand. I know I have to get an adaptor to convert the speaker wire to a single the amp can use.
That's where I get lost. So...I put this adaptor in line with one of the rear speaker wires. Then I run the same speaker wire to the amp, then re-run all new speaker wires to the doors if I want to amplify them? Can I use the same wire? Can I just tap existing wire?
If you buy this adapter http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
It will convert your signal to RCA cables to supply your amp with signal. It will allow your stock stereo to power the door speakers. It installs behind the factory stereo. If you want to amplify the door speakers you will need to add an amp and run new speaker wire into the doors OR cut the stock speaker wires and splice the new speaker wires into the stock wires
Also, do I have to power the amp straight from the battery? Or just use nearby available power?
The amplifier needs to be powered directly from the battery. For a 1000w amp I would run 4ga wire
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KOL-AK4
1,000 watt amp
10" enclosed woofer (slim line)
4 6x8 kenwood 3 way door speakers.
Also, how hard is it to replace the door speakers? Does the whole panel come off? Or just a speaker cover? my speaker box fits under my seat "sort of" it stick out about 3-4 inches. I don't know if I need to move the jack stand holder out the way, or if it's the back of the truck stoping it (it has a lip about 1/2" to 1"). Could I still force it under there? Or do I need to lift my seats?
Is the box made for your truck? maybe post pics of the box. You will need to pull the door panels to replace the speakers. I havent had mine off yet but it shouldnt be too hard
Here is the stupidest question of all. Does the woofer face up or down? Pretty sure up, but want to make sure.
Depends on the box. some are made to fire down, some up
Thanks in advance for any input. I can't seem to find the little bits of info I need to do this. So please excuse my ignorance.
Last edited by king nothing; 01-09-2014 at 11:16 PM.
01-09-2014, 11:20 PM
#5
The woofer is a 10" kicker slim line with a port. There is literally NO information. None. I can't even find a model number. It's 600 watts peak, has connectors on the speaker enclosure, and cost $150. Seriously, that's it.
01-09-2014, 11:22 PM
#6
I'm guessing I run the power wire under the strip on the floorboard by the door. Run it behind the glove compartment? I saw a video where they had a big grommet they put all the wires through from the engine compartment to the cab.
Also that adaptor looks like a big harness, this can connect to my speaker wire inside my door?
Also that adaptor looks like a big harness, this can connect to my speaker wire inside my door?
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01-10-2014, 01:19 AM
#9
Senior Member
The door panels have to come off to replace the speakers but it's not difficult. The hardest part is getting the plastic cover behind the inside door handle off. There are threads on here about how to remove the door panels.
The sub box will dictate if the sub fires up or down. If the speaker mounting surface is flush with the edge of the box then it fires up. Otherwise your speaker will be sitting face down on the carpet.
You will need to run power from the battery for your amp. There should be a grommet high up on the firewall on the passenger side to run your power cable. Don't forget to fuse the power close to the battery.
If you have more questions post back up. Lots of people here to help you out
Post pics when you're done!
The sub box will dictate if the sub fires up or down. If the speaker mounting surface is flush with the edge of the box then it fires up. Otherwise your speaker will be sitting face down on the carpet.
You will need to run power from the battery for your amp. There should be a grommet high up on the firewall on the passenger side to run your power cable. Don't forget to fuse the power close to the battery.
If you have more questions post back up. Lots of people here to help you out
Post pics when you're done!
01-10-2014, 09:29 AM
#10
I'm guessing I run the power wire under the strip on the floorboard by the door. Run it behind the glove compartment? I saw a video where they had a big grommet they put all the wires through from the engine compartment to the cab.
Also that adaptor looks like a big harness, this can connect to my speaker wire inside my door?
Also that adaptor looks like a big harness, this can connect to my speaker wire inside my door?