Sony system is GONE!!!!
10-21-2012, 12:17 AM
#21
Thank u. Yea pic 13/14 r with the back carpet back on. Can't show u pics of sub box with seat down, cause I can't put my damn seat down 
The top of seat ends up resting on top of speaker. The guy said it would b snug, but not this snug. So now I have to purchase a seat lift kit. But the box fills the whole space under passenger side back seat. It's perfect size. Once I get lift, soon, will get more pics.
The top of seat ends up resting on top of speaker. The guy said it would b snug, but not this snug. So now I have to purchase a seat lift kit. But the box fills the whole space under passenger side back seat. It's perfect size. Once I get lift, soon, will get more pics.
Well that sucks! That is one thing I need is my rear seats.
You never did say what HU you were running?
10-21-2012, 06:26 AM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by spectrascott
Well that sucks! That is one thing I need is my rear seats.
You never did say what HU you were running?
10-21-2012, 11:29 AM
#23
10-21-2012, 12:44 PM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by spectrascott
Thanks again
That is what I wanted to hear. I want to keep my Nav system also. I will have to search out what I need to make it all work out. It has been a long time since I messed with a stereo system
10-21-2012, 06:57 PM
#25
Alright Belushi, I call upon your expertise please!
I started digging into the system today and am now confused about my tweeter wiring situation again in my 2012 Non-Sony w/Sync. Its quite sad because I re-wired an A4 with Bose and did not have a problem yet I can across what appears to be something straight forward and now im stuck.
My plan is to run a passive crossover for the tweeters and door mids since they the tweeter is factory located in the A-Pillar and the midbass in the door. I wanted to get the BT-5520 and run hi-level inputs back to my amp, while getting my speaker connections to my amp as well, running 2 runs of 9conductor speedwire. Here is the kicker, what should I do about the passive crossover? What I could do for the front stage components is take the speaker lead from the BT-5520 then run that into the crossover, from there to to the midbass + tweeter but I am desperately trying to avoid going through my door molex connectors and also trying to avoid cutting of any factory wiring.
Another thought I have is to run a passive crossover inline only with the tweeter as currently all Ford has done is install an inline resister as a crossover which is clearly visible and then run the speedwire from the BT5520 to the amp. I don't see a problem doing it this way because my hi frequencies will go to my tweeter and all the lows to the midbass in the door since that's already what the factory head is doing now... I would just be be giving it more power. I would want to add a Cleansweep or a Audison Bit Ten for processing as my goal is to increase sound quality not put new speakers & amps with a factory EQ.
Hopefully that is not rambling... have any thoughts or suggestions? I would be installing coaxial in the rear Supercab doors as well but that is more than straight forward. Almost wish I had coax in the front hah! but I really do love that factory A-Pillar location.
Thanks!!
I started digging into the system today and am now confused about my tweeter wiring situation again in my 2012 Non-Sony w/Sync. Its quite sad because I re-wired an A4 with Bose and did not have a problem yet I can across what appears to be something straight forward and now im stuck.
My plan is to run a passive crossover for the tweeters and door mids since they the tweeter is factory located in the A-Pillar and the midbass in the door. I wanted to get the BT-5520 and run hi-level inputs back to my amp, while getting my speaker connections to my amp as well, running 2 runs of 9conductor speedwire. Here is the kicker, what should I do about the passive crossover? What I could do for the front stage components is take the speaker lead from the BT-5520 then run that into the crossover, from there to to the midbass + tweeter but I am desperately trying to avoid going through my door molex connectors and also trying to avoid cutting of any factory wiring.
Another thought I have is to run a passive crossover inline only with the tweeter as currently all Ford has done is install an inline resister as a crossover which is clearly visible and then run the speedwire from the BT5520 to the amp. I don't see a problem doing it this way because my hi frequencies will go to my tweeter and all the lows to the midbass in the door since that's already what the factory head is doing now... I would just be be giving it more power. I would want to add a Cleansweep or a Audison Bit Ten for processing as my goal is to increase sound quality not put new speakers & amps with a factory EQ.
Hopefully that is not rambling... have any thoughts or suggestions? I would be installing coaxial in the rear Supercab doors as well but that is more than straight forward. Almost wish I had coax in the front hah! but I really do love that factory A-Pillar location.
Thanks!!
10-22-2012, 03:49 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jbone14
Alright Belushi, I call upon your expertise please!
I started digging into the system today and am now confused about my tweeter wiring situation again in my 2012 Non-Sony w/Sync. Its quite sad because I re-wired an A4 with Bose and did not have a problem yet I can across what appears to be something straight forward and now im stuck.
My plan is to run a passive crossover for the tweeters and door mids since they the tweeter is factory located in the A-Pillar and the midbass in the door. I wanted to get the BT-5520 and run hi-level inputs back to my amp, while getting my speaker connections to my amp as well, running 2 runs of 9conductor speedwire. Here is the kicker, what should I do about the passive crossover? What I could do for the front stage components is take the speaker lead from the BT-5520 then run that into the crossover, from there to to the midbass + tweeter but I am desperately trying to avoid going through my door molex connectors and also trying to avoid cutting of any factory wiring.
Another thought I have is to run a passive crossover inline only with the tweeter as currently all Ford has done is install an inline resister as a crossover which is clearly visible and then run the speedwire from the BT5520 to the amp. I don't see a problem doing it this way because my hi frequencies will go to my tweeter and all the lows to the midbass in the door since that's already what the factory head is doing now... I would just be be giving it more power. I would want to add a Cleansweep or a Audison Bit Ten for processing as my goal is to increase sound quality not put new speakers & amps with a factory EQ.
Hopefully that is not rambling... have any thoughts or suggestions? I would be installing coaxial in the rear Supercab doors as well but that is more than straight forward. Almost wish I had coax in the front hah! but I really do love that factory A-Pillar location.
Thanks!!
I started digging into the system today and am now confused about my tweeter wiring situation again in my 2012 Non-Sony w/Sync. Its quite sad because I re-wired an A4 with Bose and did not have a problem yet I can across what appears to be something straight forward and now im stuck.
My plan is to run a passive crossover for the tweeters and door mids since they the tweeter is factory located in the A-Pillar and the midbass in the door. I wanted to get the BT-5520 and run hi-level inputs back to my amp, while getting my speaker connections to my amp as well, running 2 runs of 9conductor speedwire. Here is the kicker, what should I do about the passive crossover? What I could do for the front stage components is take the speaker lead from the BT-5520 then run that into the crossover, from there to to the midbass + tweeter but I am desperately trying to avoid going through my door molex connectors and also trying to avoid cutting of any factory wiring.
Another thought I have is to run a passive crossover inline only with the tweeter as currently all Ford has done is install an inline resister as a crossover which is clearly visible and then run the speedwire from the BT5520 to the amp. I don't see a problem doing it this way because my hi frequencies will go to my tweeter and all the lows to the midbass in the door since that's already what the factory head is doing now... I would just be be giving it more power. I would want to add a Cleansweep or a Audison Bit Ten for processing as my goal is to increase sound quality not put new speakers & amps with a factory EQ.
Hopefully that is not rambling... have any thoughts or suggestions? I would be installing coaxial in the rear Supercab doors as well but that is more than straight forward. Almost wish I had coax in the front hah! but I really do love that factory A-Pillar location.
Thanks!!
The following users liked this post:
jbone14 (10-22-2012)
10-22-2012, 09:25 PM
#27
Well I'm def not the guy to talk to. No expert at this stuff. But, since u don't want to do any cutting or minimal cutting. Ur probably gonna b better off using factory wiring for tweet and putting inline resistor like u mentioned. U might b able to tap in behind head unit, connect ur crossover there to both ur driver and tweeter and keep crossover under dash somewhere.
10-27-2012, 09:13 AM
#29
Ive asked the same question a bunch of times and I finally might see the answer here, but im not sure. All i want to do is replace my front speakers with JL audio components. I have a 2012 Non nav with sync and factory tweeters. What is the best way to wire the speakers?
10-27-2012, 11:13 AM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Timn330
Ive asked the same question a bunch of times and I finally might see the answer here, but im not sure. All i want to do is replace my front speakers with JL audio components. I have a 2012 Non nav with sync and factory tweeters. What is the best way to wire the speakers?