mSaLL150

Fitting 12s isn't a problem, you just need to look at the right speakers. I use 2 of the BM MKIII drivers they are unbelievable for their size. SQ, output, and low frequency extension is far better than many larger 12" drivers I've heard.

Since they are not going to be released again until summer, you may want to look at the new Alpine shallow Type R. It has the same linear displacement as the BM MKIII, so output will be similar. SQ should be good too with the underhung neo motor, although maybe not quite as good as the BM (XBL motor, shorting sleeves for reduced inductance, etc).

Both drivers need .5 - .6 cu ft of space and have 3.5" of depth, should be very easy to fit them in your Screw.

skeeterweeder

Thanks for the reply. I really am a novice when it comes to talking about ohms and watts. I just want my amp and subs to work together. I am not looking to blow away the neighbors or annoy fellow drivers on the road, but to just enjoy a little thumping from the stereo. The amp and subs I got were dirt cheap, so I am trying to see if could make them work. It sounds like I can, just wont be competition level......... which is fine by me. So do you think if I hook all this up with what I have now, it will at least work without burning down my truck or anything?

ummduh

Yes it should work. Just won't be optimal. IMO I'd do a single 12 with that amp and be better able to use the room under the seat still.

skeeterweeder

Well I received my Metra BT-5520 Harness in the mail today and got right to work. I was as excited as a little kid the night before Christmas all week waiting for this harness. I planned how I was going to attack the install throughout the whole week (looked up how to take the HU out and found this very helpful piece on the internet http://documents.victorytechnologies...duct/15786.pdf ). Well I got the HU easily and without a scratch and guess what happened next............. the damn harness wasn't the right one. I have the single disk radio without the factory amp or anything, and while I was perusing the internet a lot of people said that the Metra BT 5520 was the harness to use. I wanted to keep my steering wheel controls and sync. Well, I took the radio out hooked my LOC to the new harness and then "tried" to connect the harness to the back of the radio. No luck. I am hoping some one will let me know what harness they ordered (that has the same factory radio) that allowed them to keep SYNC and the steering wheel controls. I am thinking I might have to tap into the factory wires for the rear speakers before they go in the doors and then run them to the LOC. That would be the last resort for me though. I dont want to have to do that. Thanks for rading my rant, and please HELP me! That is what the back of my radio looks like. The BT 5520 small connector doesn't mate with the small connector on that. Any tips or advice?

Hobbes80

This is supposed to be correct to let you add an amp to a stock system and KEEP SYNC:
http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=28

The instructions are available on the site, they also have a call-in support if you want to call them before ordering.

IF you decide to replace your factory head unit with an aftermarket one later, you can keep SYNC still with using this kit:
http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=26

I was not sure about the metra harness you had mentioned, it looked like it was for aftermarket radios but I was not certain and didn't know enough about them to correct you... hopefully this won't set you back to far.

skeeterweeder

You are totally correct on that! I just called crutchfield since they were the only ones still open, and of course the guy tried to sell me the PAC MS-FRD1 ($199.00). I tried to explain to the guy that I just wanted to use the harness to tap into the speaker wires from the HU and add my aftermarket amp. I didn't want to, nor will I ever change the factory HU in the vehicle. I will see if Sonic electronix sells that AOEM- FRD24 Harness since I will be returning the Metra BT-5520 and doing an exchange. Do you know if that will upset anything in the vehicle (take away steering wheel controls or SYNC)? If none of these harnesses will work, do you think I just tap into the factory speaker wires near the rear doors and then run tem to the LOC? Man I am sooooooooo p1$$3d off righ now! Thanks for the help.

Hobbes80

Honestly, since you are only adding an LOC and you already have the LOC, you could just tap into the factory harness, you don't even need a new harness...

The one that I marked from PAC-Audio above will retain your stock SYNC and your steering wheel controls AND you won't need your LOC because it will drop RCA cables out to you.

The main reason to use a harness is so that you don't have to splice factory cables though...

skeeterweeder

Would you take a little of your time and please explain to me (I am Polish) how the AOEM-FRD24 would connect to the back of my HU. I see the large connector and how that would fit from factory harness to HU, but that small 16 pin connector I do not see on the AOEM-FRD24. It confuses me how that would all fit onto my HU. Thank you.

Hobbes80

Sure, look at the picture. There is NO little connector in the picture. The little connector is for stuff that you aren't tapping into. You plug the big male connector into the factory harness, and the big female connector into your radio, leaving the little factory connector in the stereo.

The black box hangs off using a little white connector, then the RCAs come off of the little black box. You can do one of two things here: you can either get Y cables to combine front and backs into a single set of Red/White to go to your amp, or you can tape off one set (the backs) and wire just the other set to your amp (the fronts).

I suspect the blue wire is probably the remote turn on.

Make sense?

skeeterweeder

Dude......that was perfect instruction. I can clearly visualize it now. I wuld keep the small factory plug connected to the HU and just plug the factory large connector to the harness. Makes sense. I guess I wouldn't even have to tap into anything with that though. i would actually remove my LOC and use the RCA's from the one on this harness. So you would use the front RCA's to go back to the AMP? Why is that? I am use to using a LOC and tapping into the rear speakers....... that is why I am asking. Thanks a lot. I am feeling a little bette now. Now I just have to get the PAC AOEM-FRD 24 sent to me. Are you sure leaving the small factory plug in and just switching the large plug won't cross any wires or make anything wierd happen to my HU?