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Ok...I went back in to the dash and reset the Hi/Lo switch on the Alpine to "Hi". Seems that on "Lo" there is more low volume Bass, but when I would go beyond 5 or 6 Volume Bars the Right front Speaker and Tweeter would "clip" and crackle. So let the Switch on the Alpine set on "Hi", so far so good and not getting anymore of those loud heart-stopping clipping noises!
Okay. I am happy with the amp, but the speakers are a little disappointing. Maybe it is just me but on some songs it sounds ok. Others with more bass, it sounds like the speakers are cardboard, very poor bass. I am not blasting it either. Granted I was VERY spoiled with my MAZDA CX9 with Bose System. But even the door speakers produce a deep bass. I am 100% positive the amp is wired correctly.
With that being said I just got an email from Crutchfield saying all Sound Ordinance products are 20% off, putting the B-8PT at $150 with free amp kit.
Concerns:
If I do this, the speakers will sound the same.
I have a 2012 FX4 SuperCab. Where would I put it?
How hard is this to add?
Any help, criticism and or thoughts would be helpful.
Just as the directions in this thread give. I tapped into the rear speakers wires beneath the driver and passenger door and ran to the high level input to the amp (it accepts line and powered input). IMO the sound ordinance sub, the Alpine 45watt RMS amp, and the 4 Infinity Kappa 6x8s sound awesome for what I spent. 1000% better than stock, and it didn't mess up SYNC.
I don't plan any future upgrades for the stereo. Thanks to all that posted on this and on the Sound Ordinance install!
I see you installed the SO Powered Woofer. I have never hooked up a sub with amp before. Do you have to run power to battery?
Can you give me a little more detail, that would be helpful in determining if I take on this project (oh and where u put it)?
Still have that crackle, I drove around the block and it does it when I turn to the left or hit some bumps, Actually I opened and closed the drivers door and it did it on the passenger side front, I geuss one of the connections came loose or maybe a stray wire at one of the RF connections poked thru the heat shrink and is touching metal? Going to take it back out and check the connections and make sure they are tight. Also I put in one of my Infiniti Kappa's and there is More Bass with the OEM spreaker .Go Figure? At this point I can live with the OEM's for now but the random crackle has to be resolved FAST! lol
Still have that crackle, I drove around the block and it does it when I turn to the left or hit some bumps, Actually I opened and closed the drivers door and it did it on the passenger side front, I geuss one of the connections came loose or maybe a stray wire at one of the RF connections poked thru the heat shrink and is touching metal? Going to take it back out and check the connections and make sure they are tight. Also I put in one of my Infiniti Kappa's and there is More Bass with the OEM spreaker .Go Figure? At this point I can live with the OEM's for now but the random crackle has to be resolved FAST! lol
I actually had to re-do (3) of the doors as the wire extensions that Crutchfield provided were too long and were hitting the window when it rolled down. All is fine now, just not happy with the bass.
I installed the SO sub behind the rear seat of my SCREW. It's $199 from crutchfield but they include the amp kit. I ran the power wire directly from the battery and ran along the passenger side floorboard. This was really the hardest part, but wasn't too bad, it took about an hour. For the signal, I tapped into the rear speaker wires under the floor panel next to the front driver and passenger side. The amp accepts high level input so this worked fine.
I installed the SO sub behind the rear seat of my SCREW. It's $199 from crutchfield but they include the amp kit. I ran the power wire directly from the battery and ran along the passenger side floorboard. This was really the hardest part, but wasn't too bad, it took about an hour. For the signal, I tapped into the rear speaker wires under the floor panel next to the front driver and passenger side. The amp accepts high level input so this worked fine.
I actually had to re-do (3) of the doors as the wire extensions that Crutchfield provided were too long and were hitting the window when it rolled down. All is fine now, just not happy with the bass.
Finally got it all back together and working fine. I noticed that setting the "Speed Compensated Volume" to "7" gives a little boost of low volume bass. I set it to OFF at about 4 Volume bars, then set it to 7 and it sounded "fuller" at the same 4 volume bars. If you try it you can detect it as you jog from 1 up to 7. I keep it set on 7. Sounds better to begin with, let alone adjusting for speed!
Finally got it all back together and working fine. I noticed that setting the "Speed Compensated Volume" to "7" gives a little boost of low volume bass. I set it to OFF at about 4 Volume bars, then set it to 7 and it sounded "fuller" at the same 4 volume bars. If you try it you can detect it as you jog from 1 up to 7. I keep it set on 7. Sounds better to begin with, let alone adjusting for speed!
When I installed this on my 03 F150 the ford wiring for the 12v power was around 14 ga. Since that 14ga wire is powering the HU and the KTP I decided to upgrade the wire size. I ran 10ga. directly from the battery to the KTP-445(Used the factory 14ga for the HU) and could tell a difference when changing from Low to High. I used a 30amp fuse at the battery.
This Increased the response quite a bit, especially at higher volume levels.
** I don't use this anymore since I got a typical outboard amp now, so if anyone is interested I'll let it go fairly cheap. Just Pm me
Linear Mode
